Brilliant bittergreen citrus wood
Intelligent citrus fragrances are hard to come by - there's a great challenge involved in constructing a perfume that needs to casually refresh while providing complexity and depth. I would go so far as to say that it requires a great master perfumer to pull it off - but that is certainly a title Jacques Cavallier can claim for himself and he proves it again with Theorema Uomo. Theorema gives you a crisp freshness of bittergreen citrus, but the bergamot is cleverly supported by a seamlessly integrated geranium note that provides volume and a bridge to subtle spicy notes blending pepper and cardamom and woody vetiver-cedar. An equally toned-down but essential warm powderiness with a touch of the sweet (sufficiently controlled by the green citrus-woods) takes up the dusky green vetiver heart in the quiet ambery base, which is lightyears from conventional perfume-rednexck-style ambrox-assaults. Theorema Uomo embodies the high art of French perfume blending to achieve an expression of sublime and seeminlgy effortless Italian elegance complementing the look of a perfcetly tailored, airy summer suit by Attolini.
Pros: fresh spring-summer marvel, brilliantly layered composition
Luckly i've found this gem left alone in a shelf at Buenos Aires. I did not think twice: bought it.
Smells like a classic woody-vetiver fragrance, it has a good lasting power, sillage and projection. The geranium and musk gives it an edge over many vetiver based fragrances, that's why i consider this a wonderful fragrance.
Theorema Uomo opens with a crisp herbaceous green note paired with bitter bergamot.The base is well rounded with cedar and vetiver, keeping the scent sharp. It has good sillage, but -at least on my skin- it doesn't last very long. All in all, I think it's a really good fragrance. Too bad it's been discontinued.
There is something in the opening of this fragrance that does not agree with me and I think is too much geranium. I've never been much of a fan of geranium and this scent kinda proves it. It smells to me like stale water from old flowerpots. That note tapers off gradually and I do get to smell the nutmeg/vetiver accord (one of my favorite accords) but I do not get to enjoy it too much because that flowerpot is still there (induces a headache on me BTW).
It is a quality and decent perfumes in all other respects, but that odd opening ruins it for me.
Theorema Uomo = Green freshness, like the stems of plants or flowers.
It's mildly sweet, not at all fruity. Think geranium. In the light spring and summer scent category, this is decidedly masculine. It's the only fragrance I'd wear on a sweltering hot day because it cools you down.
Appropriate for the office, gym, summer evenings and yoga. Sillage: moderate. Longevity: About 5 hours.
An excellent fragrance, sadly discontinued.