Fendi Theorema Uomo is a sadly discontinued italian glory "leaking" straight from a luxurious still in activity brand yet responsible of real olfactive pieces of tradition a la Fendi by Fendi classic (the house's masterpiece), Asja, Fendi Uomo, Life Essence etc. Theorema Uomo opens somewhat conventionally (eau de Rochas, several 4711, Lancome Trophee or Mugler Cologne jump partially on mind among many others waving from Roger&Gallet to Meo Fusciuni across Paul Smith) with a fizzy-zesty and evidently peppery citric accord more than vaguely classical, quite sparkling, lemony-balsamic but immediately kind of grassy-salty (lemon, vetiver, geranium in a sort of tart/lemony/salty odorous valzer). Geranium, especially as joined to lemon and greens, provides a dose of green astringent-salty leafiness (it seems almost to detect genuine earthiness for a while). Overall the olfactory experience is permeated by this green/leafy lemony (vaguely salty) tartness really virile, dry, spacious and hyper balanced. Probably cardamom affords a sort of fluidy spicy refreshing (almost minty) consistency while a touch of petitgrain (connected to spices) enhances the typical lingering green fizziness. It seems to detect traces of basil and mint as well in moderate amount. Synth ambergris (well connected to pepper) imprints a final reassuring and confidential sense of warmth, while the "bottom" woodiness is mostly cedary (astringent cedarwood) since vetiver is prevalently catchable in the top. Frankly I hardly detect labdanum while may be nutmeg provides "mild balance" to the otherwise overly tart/salty main accord. Airy, dynamic, essential, a typical kind of sporty/gentlemanly and casual-hyper versatile fragrance usually prefered by rampant offsprings, lovers of outdoors activities, golf clubs habitué and white clothed young managers.
27th November, 2015 (last edited: 28th November, 2015)
A gentle bergamot with a green background and a geranium note start it off, followed by a woodsy drydown that also includes a vetiver impression. Pleasant but quite muted on my skin and a bit dull. Limited sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity. For warmer spring days.
Brilliant bittergreen citrus wood
Intelligent citrus fragrances are hard to come by - there's a great challenge involved in constructing a perfume that needs to casually refresh while providing complexity and depth. I would go so far as to say that it requires a great master perfumer to pull it off - but that is certainly a title Jacques Cavallier can claim for himself and he proves it again with Theorema Uomo. Theorema gives you a crisp freshness of bittergreen citrus, but the bergamot is cleverly supported by a seamlessly integrated geranium note that provides volume and a bridge to subtle spicy notes blending pepper and cardamom and woody vetiver-cedar. An equally toned-down but essential warm powderiness with a touch of the sweet (sufficiently controlled by the green citrus-woods) takes up the dusky green vetiver heart in the quiet ambery base, which is lightyears from conventional perfume-rednexck-style ambrox-assaults. Theorema Uomo embodies the high art of French perfume blending to achieve an expression of sublime and seeminlgy effortless Italian elegance complementing the look of a perfcetly tailored, airy summer suit by Attolini.
Pros: fresh spring-summer marvel, brilliantly layered composition
Luckly i've found this gem left alone in a shelf at Buenos Aires. I did not think twice: bought it.
Smells like a classic woody-vetiver fragrance, it has a good lasting power, sillage and projection. The geranium and musk gives it an edge over many vetiver based fragrances, that's why i consider this a wonderful fragrance.
Theorema Uomo opens with a crisp herbaceous green note paired with bitter bergamot.The base is well rounded with cedar and vetiver, keeping the scent sharp. It has good sillage, but -at least on my skin- it doesn't last very long. All in all, I think it's a really good fragrance. Too bad it's been discontinued.
There is something in the opening of this fragrance that does not agree with me and I think is too much geranium. I've never been much of a fan of geranium and this scent kinda proves it. It smells to me like stale water from old flowerpots. That note tapers off gradually and I do get to smell the nutmeg/vetiver accord (one of my favorite accords) but I do not get to enjoy it too much because that flowerpot is still there (induces a headache on me BTW).
It is a quality and decent perfumes in all other respects, but that odd opening ruins it for me.