“It was the best of times., it was the worst of times…”
Trussardi Uomo embodies the Dickensian paradox of 1980s men’s fragrances to the fullest. On the one hand, it’s rich, complex, and loaded with character. On the other hand, its immoderate swagger leaves it feeling about as au courant as big gold chains or a shiny polyester shirt. I went through at least one bottle of Trussardi Uomo during the 1980s, and for me it will always be one of those chest-pounding compositions that define the decade’s olfactory style at its most brazen. Wearing it today feels like an exercise in nostalgia.
Trussardi Uomo starts out with a blast of tart citrus and pungent aromatics, the latter resolving slowly into an enormously potent accord of sage and lavender. Tobacco, patchouli, leather and moss fill out the arrangement. I also suspect an admixture of castoreum contributing to Trussardi Uomo’s virile profile. The drydown is in the classic leather chypre mold, with plenty of patchouli, moss, and labdanum. Trussardi Uomo is a loud scent, but perceived in isolation from its period associations, I don’t think it’s crude. There’s only so long though, that I can keep the associations at bay. My failing, not Trussardi Uomo’s.
The vintage formulation. One thing we forget when talking about powerhouses is that a lot of them were, and still are, quite avant-garde. Take the opening of Trussardi Uomo, how utterly brutal, somehow ugly yet admirably strange is this assault of dirt and spices. The olfactory equivalent of Swans tuning up. Unthinkable in today's perfumery (sadly) although even in the pre-aquatic age it must have scared away many a potential customer.
The thing is, Trussardi isn't that outrageously strong after the opening. My theory is that a lot of powerhouses got their fame as sillage monsters because of ultra-strong and weird openings. That doesn’t mean that Trussardi has no projection but I would call it civilized. Its form resembles Yatagan quite a lot.
Trussardi is, no surprise when you consider the origin of the house, about leather. You decided to wear your leather jacket again which you wore when you went clubbing in your younger years, you chain smoked and never bothered to get it cleaned. During the walk in the forest you have sex on a bed of pine needles and then you basically smell of Trussardi Uomo. You will also will smell a bit like the female version of Trussardi, another good thing because that is another brilliant and underrated perfume.
Rough, sullen, pensive Italian glamour in a bottle.
Great big fat leather scent that carries on the tradition of 80s powerhouse style macho frags. I've never smelled the original version of this scent, so my review is for the current formulation.
This is a pure black leather scent - any other notes in this merely enhance the strong leathery aura of it. It starts off smelling like petroleum fuel and crushed green plant stems, letting you know that you have a serious leather and moss powerbomb on your hands. The harshness of the opening fades to a smooth but powerful warm leather and moss scent. Very 80's and very hairy chested.
Trussardi cranks out major sillage, but it's not a heady, obnoxious smell. It's warm and smooth, and projects far. This is one powerhouse I like to spray on liberally. It loses its impact if you apply it carefully, and this is a fragrance meant to make an impact, just like its soul brothers Lapidus Pour Homme and Kouros.
If you like your scents leathery, strong and super masculine, you can't go wrong with Trussardi Uomo.
MY RATING: 8.5/10
Big green sillage machine. A pine-like note really stands out at first, then a spicy floral tobacco phase, then a mossy, leathery base. All the while a bit of honey adds a natural sweetness. It's strong. It lasts. It throws off tons of scent. But it's also well-made and interesting, especially when the more settled base comes out. I didn't like this one at first. I think the honey-leather combo was off-putting. Over time it's grown on me and has become one of my favorite powerhouse scents.
A saturnine giant, moody and poetic. A great take on earthy-spicy luxurious leather. Glorious powerhouse partially reduced in darkness and richness nowadays as Foetidus clearly underlined. It's still an eccellent blend of dry spices, dry-toasted tobacco, aromatics, woodsy notes, frankincense and leather despite with my last try by vial I was a bit disappointed about its olfactory power. Anyway Trussardi Uomo is still a great and load fragrance, one of the real leather heavyweights out there and one of the greatest "powerhouse-fragrances" ever. When I inhale it perceive the typical "leatherwears" undertone and feel a very elegant and uncompromisingly masculine touch. The beginning is harsh, brash, barber-shop, aromatic, aldehydic and still intoxicating by lavender, basil, citrus, sage and by a touch of myrtle to colour with a boise vibe the wild/sour explotion. I love the top notes which appear almost carnal and surely balsamic. The top notes very soon morph towards an "intimate" heart all spices, moss, tobacco and leather. Several sharp flowers ( jasmine, geranium and may be rose) operate with myrtle in order to get the fragrance more mild and gentle. The base is composed by heavy woods and austere frankincense. What can I add? While I'm really delighted by smelling on myself this fragrance I admitt it's one of the most "problematic" powerhouse to wear, it's still great as business formal fragrance but for today standards is too severe, conservative and not versatile, undue for a special night out or an easy evening for the streets of downtown. Very austere is the role played by the note of earthy/spicy (dry spices) incense. I'll keep it as a specific business formal scent. On this kind of goal this juice is highly performing. They will appear submissed in front of my forbidding assertiveness for sure.
17th January, 2011 (last edited: 02nd December, 2016)