Tsar (1989)
by Van Cleef & Arpels

I don't know what is wrong with this fragrance. Two coworkers used to wear Tsar a few years ago with very different results. The first one, a man in his 60's, smelled like musty mouldy wood covered with cheap barbershoppy cologne. Utterly revolting. The other one, a very elegant man in the mid-40's, smelled much nicer but there was still a lingering fusty note I could not identify. I was sure he was wearing a drug-store EDT. I just could not believe this fragrance was a Van Cleef & Arpels product. I suppose some men have better results with Tsar but I haven't met one yet, unfortunately.

26th October, 2011.

If you want masculine and sexy, look no further, Tsar is exactly what you need.

I'll admit that when I first sprayed this, I was almost blown over backwards by its boldness and strength. The opening was extremely overwhelming, a little too strong some would say.

However, giving it a few minutes to settle I found myself falling in love. Tsar is rich, masculine, spicy and complex. I couldn't help noticing a chocolatey like note which doesn't seem to be listed here. I'm not talking light and sweet milk chocolate, I'm talking strong, bitter and rich dark chocolate, liquefied and oozing.

Don't be afraid of the floral notes listed here, because I can assure you that they are very subtle. The coriander, green notes, lavender, juniper berries, caraway, leather, patchouli and amber dominate this fragrance.

Yes, the scent is a little soapy, especially in the drydown, but I don't find that a turn off at all. In fact I would definitely consider buying this for a man of great confidence and strength. Everything about Tsar screams masculinity and there's really nothing like it. It's a one of kind type scent.

15th June, 2011.

Tsar is the first fragrance I fell in love with upon initial sampling in the early 1990's. I bought a gift set that included the EDTand after shave. This fresh fougere has a crisp green opening that develops a slightly spicy and fruity character within the first 30 minutes of application. I find a distinct tartness as it transitions into the heart notes, but the fruity, green notes remain throughout the life of the fragrance, though they take a less prominent role over time. As the base develops, the oak moss note emerges accompanied by a dash of pathchouli. This lasts for quite some time until the sandal enters the progression. I detect a restrained leather note in the base. Tsar is an elegant fragrance that starts strong and mellows to a pleasant skin scent that invites wrist sniffs. Tsar has been reformulated at least twice since its launch in the late 1980s. I do not recommend the first reformulation which is packaged in the ribbed bottle with the gold top. In my opinion, it is not even close to the original. If you can't obtain a bottle of the original, I recommend the current version in the dark green, opaque bottle with the black top. This is the new version that is shown on the VC&A website. It is very close to the original formulation. A side by side comaprison confirms that. Tsar is an excellent choice for formal occassions, but it can also be worn at the office. One of my favorites. I will always have a bottle in my wardrobe.

16th April, 2011. (Last Edited: 7th December, 2011.)

I have a special feeling with Tsar as it reminds me of a beloved uncle I really loved. Its structure is very classic and has the same quality / appeal of an handmade walnut chair. Old-fashioned, honest, elegant and very solid. It opens with a delightful bergamot and turns to a drier and smoky tobacco and leather. It's one of those perfume that you can call "familiar", when you smell it for the first time you feel like you know it since ever, and that's comfortating. Be careful as Tsar is quite loud and potent.

I think it could be a bit nostalgic if worn today, but you can try to "decontextualize it" with your personality and clothes if you mind. I don't.

30th March, 2011. (Last Edited: 4th April, 2011.)

As soon as I sprayed on Tsar for the first time, I was immediately reminded of Havana by Aramis. What makes Tsar different from Havana is more green and more freshness. Tsar is a bit more conserved and subdued as Havana as well, however still bearing good longevity. Actually, Tsar came out BEFORE Havana - precisely 5 years before Havana. Being launched the same year as Montana Parfum d'Homme, here's how I'll rank this trifecta:

1. Havana
2. Montana
3. Tsar

Still, Tsar is a good fragrance and a good bang for the buck as well (I found my bottle at a discounter here in the U.S. for $15). If you can't get your hands on Havana or just find it too strong, try this. Oh, and the mossy base is excellent, as well.

13rd March, 2011.

This is masculine spice. It reminds me of my Dad who would wear this all year round. It for me is an older man's fragrance that lasts ages.

It doesn't evolve for me but stays strong and manly in an 80's way. I still wear in now and again and I like the strong green and spice scent. It has never awarded me any compliments and I feel it's too old for the younger crowd but it has a soft spot in my heart which is why I've given a thumbs up.

For the older, more mature gent.

19th February, 2011.