UBS is a well-mannered vetiver + cypress + sandalwood fragrance. The overall aromatic/woody effect is unoriginal. The one thing that I think would have improved this composition is the exclusion of the opoponax. That sweet myrrh note sticks out like a sore thumb—it just does not belong. Given UBS's lack of inspiration, I too am uninspired to say anything else.
When I first discovered niche perfumes after years of casually collecting designer scents, I searched out Serge Lutens and this was my favorite. I even bought a bottle. At the time, I just wasn't ready for all the Lutens weirdness, and Un Bois Sepia was a really good entry point for me.
Looking back, I can see what attracted me. I was such a sucker for those common topnotes, that mix of grape bubblegum, violet, mint, and lavender that have made countless men's designer scents smell similar. At the time, I already had Vera Wang for Men and Hugo Boss Pure, as well as Ulrich Lang's Anvers, which all have the same identical topnotes, so I know I REALLY liked them without realizing what was going on. Un Bois Sepia also has these smellalike topnotes, which makes it easily the most "cheap" and "common" smelling perfume in the Lutens range, despite the fact that most people assume that title belongs to his L'Eau.
Anyway, after the common topnotes fade, Un Bois Sepia goes into a very nice leather phase (my favorite part), which is unfortunately interrupted by that bleachy rubbing alcohol "aquatic" smell that ruins so many designer scents. Eventually, it goes vaguely dark and woody before ending up as a faded sweet patchouli darkened with the remnants of that aquatic chemical smell.
In hindsight, I guess it was a step in my growth as a collector to pay $200 (ironically, this is one of Lutens' most expensive scents) for something that mostly smells like dozens of scents I could get for $20 at Ross. To that end, I wore Kenneth Cole Signature a couple of days ago and, except for the leather and the concentration, it was almost identical to Un Bois Sepia in terms of notes and progression. That being said, I can't stand to give Un Bois Sepia a thumbs down because I've worn it enough to have happy memories attached, but it's certainly not a great perfume...
I can't believe Un Bois Sepia is by Lutens. Gone is the typical dried fruit quality, the density and the bold oriental structure. What is left is a generic smelling woody fragrance that continuely winks at tones of modern mass-market masculines. Weak and uninspired. Thumbs down!
Is not bad at all, but this sweet violet with sugar syrup tones and truffled of pepper, seem follow the guidelines of a designer scheme, in a bad way. In some way, this one reminds me to a sort of armani code without the cocoa line. Moreover , It lacks of the relief of most of Lutens proposals.
The mossy side is not felt as a natural breeze of nature that other mossy proposals bring out.
It is fair to say ,to his credit, that has a certain silky touch that brings elegance and subtlety.
There is a solid, bright woody fragrance here that would find itself almost smelling mainstreamy fresh, if it weren't for that strong dried fruit note. I think it's apricot dominant, but whatever it is it reminds one of those bags you find at health food stores that might be sitting next to a trail mix. This isn't an unpleasant thing, but I just feel that the overly powerful dried fruit smell obscures everything else about Un Bois de Sepia. It's a shame I can't really make anything of it beneath that fruit, as I might have been able to provide a more useful review.