Perfume Directory

Un Homme (1979)
by Charles Jourdan

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Un Homme information

Year of Launch1979
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityDiscontinued
Average Rating
(based on 39 votes)

People and companies

HouseCharles Jourdan

About Un Homme

Un Homme is a masculine fragrance by Charles Jourdan. The scent was launched in 1979

Un Homme fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Un Homme

Charles Jourdan, much like Christobal Balenciaga, would ultimately become much better known for shoes in the modern era than anything else, and just like the late Balenciaga, would not live to see any masculine perfumes bear his name (although Balenciaga was alive to witness a few feminines at least), meaning this creation was made entirely without his input. Another uncanny similarity to Balenciaga is the fact that this debut masculine from the house would be an equally mild, traditional, almost palatial aromatic fougère to Balenciaga's Ho Hang (1971), both at a time when bold and brash was the standard. There are differences however, and owning one doesn't rule out the need for the other, and if one enjoys either than one should possess both, for they are of a unique style that was rarefied even when new. The house of Charles Jourdan wouldn't explore perfume very far, as the children of the late house master would inevitably run the company into the ground after a series of very controversial stiletto heels marked the brand. Only a singular masculine was made and Un Homme is it, being released in 1979 right on the cusp of the powerhouse era, making it even further against the grain than perhaps Ho Hang was, but those in the know often favorably compared it to the barbershop standard of Azzaro Pour Homme (1978), which preceded it by a year. I can definitely see what those folks are on about, because there is a similar anise and lemon top to this fragrance, but it is buried under a much more complex pyramid of herbal notes that merge with a base that borders between chypre and fougère, while Azzaro stays in it's neat and tidy fougère fast lane. The nose here is Françoise Caron, sister to the more prolific perfumer Olivier Cresp, and herself the nose behind the famed Hermès L'Eau d'Orange Verte (1979) which debuted concurrently with this obscure gem.

When I tell people what this is or show them the bottle, they either have zero idea who Charles Jourdan is, or didn't realize he had fragrances if they remember the name, always citing the shoe boutiques inhabiting high-end shopping districts as where the name rings a bell. The scent opens with that familiar anise and lemon, but it's far more subtle than Azzaro or even the later Aramis Tuscany Per Uomo (1984), which is far brighter yet. The lemon/anise accord in Un Homme is quickly swathed in an herb bath of tarragon, majoram, and cradled in piquant bergamot and gentle lavender. Before you know it, the anise is barely present in the company of all the greens, allowing the heart quicker access to the nose of the wearer. Supposedly the note breakdown of this heart contains patchouli alongside carnation, cyclamen, geranium, and cedar. I smell the last two notes here, as they're unmistakable, but the rest in buried in blending. The base here has leather and sandalwood, both which are present but quiet compared to how they're usually presented, with oakmoss and musk doing most of the talking, with a dot of coumarin for body. This is still clearly a fougère, but it's chypre-like gentle dryness sure blurs the lines, and when combined with the soft citrus/herbal top, draws this closer to the aforementioned Ho Hang than Azzaro to my nose (outside of the anise), and with the geranium/lavender mix, incidentally pairs very well with many vintage mid-century after shaves as well. It's not mega-classy, super macho, or particularly romantic, but Françoise Caron delivered a very relaxed and understated brand of masculinity that was most certainly an underdog in an age of baroque aromatics and bulky leather scents. People who fell in love with this upon release likely used it as a signature and stood apart from the crowd of guys using more popular scents at the time, and it easily could be still due to it's relative subtlety for it's style and the era in which is was made, if not for it being long discontinued.

Un Homme Charles Jourdan must be a well-kept secret by perfume collectors in any case, as it still retails for at or slightly above modern designer retail, although there are some shameless types trying to charge niche prices for surviving stock, so don't jump on the first offer you find for this if it sounds like something you want to explore. It's an underdog in the same barbershop family as anything mentioned above, but is definitely greener and more herbal than any of the vanillic stuff such as Canoe (1936), Brut (1963), or Sartorial (2010) in the same category. To be sure, something this relaxed and confidently masculine can be an everyday wear but will date you unless you work around folks who love really old-school compositions (or just work alone), but as a weekend day wear in spring or fall, this won't let you down. It's not sharp enough for summer and loses power in cold weather, so keep that in mind. Fans of vintage smells won't need much further convincing to try this, but for those of you out there running more streamlined wardrobes, this may seem a needlessly expensive and precious variant of something already owned that's much easier to replenish, so that's some food for thought too. I just love an underdog, so this is definitely right up my alley, and I also love barbershop smells, particularly herbal ones as they're less common and so smooth, so it's double-down on that for me too. My roommate commented that I had that "just shaved" smell when I put this on before going out for food, and I said "that's exactly what I love about this", and perhaps you will too. A certified obscure classic here, and unlike Charles Jourdan's vintage stilettos, it won't give you varicose veins from wearing it too much.
22nd April, 2018
A fantastic fougere with a chypre soul combining the very best of both style of the 70's 80's golden era. It quickly shot up to one of my very favorite scent in my collection.
BN reviewers have done a great job elaborating, I would just add that to my nose there is more spiciness to it than appears from the reviews and it just add to the delight of Un Homme but I can't quite figure out if it comes from the type of lavender used or what..

Highly recommended.
08th April, 2018
Stardate 20180131:

-Aromatic Fougere.
-Barbershop.
-Great Classic Masculine
-Therefore discontinue
Checks all of those boxes. There is nothing more I can add except that among the old aromatic fougere gang, this is closest to Blend30.
The dusty-mossy-herbs and the leather brings it close to Blend 30 but there is Tuscany style Italian brightness that gives it a unique style.

Great and FBW


01st February, 2018 (last edited: 05th February, 2018)
Ohh my "redolent" guys, I utterly love this type of old school concoctions. An excellent hidden gem straight from the 80's for us. I surely detect all around aromatic-fougere elements (lavender, bergamot, hesperides in general, dry-aromatic spices, herbal "kind of anisic" notes in particular) but to me this scent is most of all a woody-mossy-leathery chypre rich of floral/aromatic nuances and muskiness. I detect aldehydes in the opening and a general sense of powdery/metallic "frozen" waxiness (with rubbery/leathery shades). More chypre than this is somewhat hard to pick up around, imo. This scent is closer to Oleg Cassini and Denim that to Azzaro Pour Homme (which is less woody and more properly crisp/herbal, bitter/laundry and dry-spicy) in my humble opinion. While Azzaro Pour Homme keeps on along the way to be herbal-spicy-anisic (with a tons of nuances), Un Homme deflets towards a powdery-woody radiant muskiness with soapy-leathery-waxy facets. Anyway many airy-fougere green/hesperidic "presences" are surely notable and soon bracing. A vintage old-school dusty chypre (woody, powdery, poudre-resinous, misty, aromatic, simply amazing) for us. This by soon "itself unveiling" talky chypre radiancy overstates an initial (however notable) fougeresque fresh piquancy. A grey but all at once radiant-poudre (almost talky) type of classic fragrance, you can get all around a widespread sort of "stale air aura" conjuring the aroma of stored clothes (sort of stuffy fabrics preserved by naphthalene), démodé man's belt, boot polish, moldy woody closets, hand made soaps, furs, penicilin powder and grandma colognes. If you tend to appreciate (conceptually and yet aromatically) scents a la Caron Yatagan, Aramis Devin, Oleg Cassini, Maurer&Wirtz Tabac Original for Men, Vintage Arrogance Pour Homme, Cabochard de Gres, Monsieur Rochas, Visconti di Modrone Tabacco d'Harar, Guerlain Sous le Vent, original Denim, Geo F. Trumper Eucris, Captain Molyneux, Oscar de La Renta Pour Lui, YSL vintage Kouros, Hermes Equipage, Knize Ten, Moustache Rochas etc, etc....well, you can't miss Charles Joudan Un Homme. A diaphane opening is by soon an amazing revelation of aromatic elements and chypre accords, a blast of artemisia, terragon, rosemary, lavender, bergamot, dry patchouli, carnation/geranium, resinous amber and powdery-woody tonka. Along the way leather, wax, dry tobacco and oakmoss start emerging with all that wondeful charge of talky-honeyed chypre nuances. Amber provides talky warmth, a touch of animalic and sticky thickness while jasmine (a stuffy honeyed kind of) takes emerging with all its honeyed "cologney" appeal. Sharp floral notes (geranium and carnation in particular) enhance a general sense of vegetal earthiness, clean detergent refinement and neutral soapiness. The woodiness is mostly cedary and almost incensey (with a secret pencil shavings far echo). All around the atmosphere is powdery, leathery, soapy/barber-shop (with hints of hesperidic wetness) and mossy/incensey (actually soapy/aldehydic more than incensey). Along dry down musks, jasmine and tonka enhance an amplified sense of evocative fresh/airy exoticism. In our depressing age of job flexibility, global terror and shut doors this classic potion exudes manly comfort, leatherwears luxuriousness, sensible wisdom, Grand Hotels conventions, exotic travels and love for tradition, all in one we catch that left back optimistic aura projected by our great dads in the age of creativity and success.
03rd December, 2015 (last edited: 04th December, 2015)
Un Homme by Charles Jourdan is an extremely solid, charming and well-made aromatic fougère for men clearly in the same league of Azzaro pour Homme, playing pretty much the exact same main key notes – anisic-powdery notes of lavender and sage on green, flowery-mossy woods. But there’s a twist unique enough to make it worthy having; it smells basically like a sort of wilder, darker, grassier version of Azzaro. “Wilder” not because it is more aggressive or louder, actually in fact it smells really mannered and classy; but because it has some really vibrant, natural quality which makes it really close to the actual smell of wet grass and freshly-cut green branches, also with a nondescript sort of “cloudy” feel, evoking a tense gust of air before a storm. Also spicier and dirtier, with bold notes of cloves and patchouli that provide weight to a feel of subtle dark leather that will gain more and more strength as time passes. So imagine Azzaro pour Homme in its utmost vintage splendour, just wrapped in leather and wet grass. Azzaro pour Homme “The Kinky Gardener Edition”. I also agree to references other reviewers made – Captain Molyneux, Oscar de la Renta pour Lui, Krizia Uomo... dark-green aromatic fougères, that’s the family and Jourdan surely sits on the top of it. Brilliant!

8,5/10
22nd June, 2015
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
On the the initial fresh burst of bergamot and lavender is short, maybe fifteen minutes, and then suddenly it collapses into a exceedingly faint patchouli. I was ready to write it off, when suddenly, like a Phoenix from the ashes, it returned witha base of wood, a touch of tobacco and, most prominently, a wonderful oakmoss, one of the best of its kind. Think Revillon's French Line but deeper, darker, more nuanced, saturated and autumnal. This first-class oakmoss is what, on my skin, makes this a very impressive fougère. After the first couple of hours it remains very close to my skin, with a very adequate longevity of about four hours.
06th April, 2013

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Charles Jourdan un homme 5ml travel size spray RARE Vintage

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CHARLES JOURDAN UN HOMME/MEN COLOGNE/EAU DE TOILETTE 100ml/3.4ozSplashHARDtoFIND

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Un Homme by Charles Jourdan 0.12 oz/3.5 ml EDT Splash Mini For Men New (m24)

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CHARLES JOURDAN UN HOMME AFTER SHAVE 1.7oz/50mlSplash FULL HARD to FIND

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CHARLES JOURDAN UN HOMME/MEN COLOGNE/EAU DE TOILETTE 100ml/3.4ozSpray HARDtoFIND

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"Un Homme" Fluid Perfume by Charles Jourdan Travel Size (0.08 OZ) - New

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CHARLES JOURDAN UN HOMME/MEN CONCENTRATED COLOGNE/EAU DE TOILETTE 1oz/30mlSpray

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