Ohh my "redolent" guys, I utterly love this type of old school concoctions. An excellent hidden gem straight from the 80's for us. I surely detect all around aromatic-fougere elements (lavender, bergamot, hesperides in general, dry-aromatic spices, herbal "kind of anisic" notes in particular) but to me this scent is most of all a woody-mossy-leathery chypre rich of floral/aromatic nuances and muskiness. I detect aldehydes in the opening and a general sense of powdery/metallic "frozen" waxiness (with rubbery/leathery shades). More chypre than this is somewhat hard to pick up around, imo. This scent is closer to Oleg Cassini and Denim that to Azzaro Pour Homme (which is less woody and more properly crisp/herbal, bitter/laundry and dry-spicy) in my humble opinion. While Azzaro Pour Homme keeps on along the way to be herbal-spicy-anisic (with a tons of nuances), Un Homme deflets towards a powdery-woody radiant muskiness with soapy-leathery-waxy facets. Anyway many airy-fougere green/hesperidic "presences" are surely notable and soon bracing. A vintage old-school dusty chypre (woody, powdery, poudre-resinous, misty, aromatic, simply amazing) for us. This by soon "itself unveiling" talky chypre radiancy overstates an initial (however notable) fougeresque fresh piquancy. A grey but all at once radiant-poudre (almost talky) type of classic fragrance, you can get all around a widespread sort of "stale air aura" conjuring the aroma of stored clothes (sort of stuffy fabrics preserved by naphthalene), démodé man's belt, boot polish, moldy woody closets, hand made soaps, furs, penicilin powder and grandma colognes. If you tend to appreciate (conceptually and yet aromatically) scents a la Caron Yatagan, Aramis Devin, Oleg Cassini, Maurer&Wirtz Tabac Original for Men, Vintage Arrogance Pour Homme, Cabochard de Gres, Monsieur Rochas, Visconti di Modrone Tabacco d'Harar, Guerlain Sous le Vent, original Denim, Geo F. Trumper Eucris, Captain Molyneux, Oscar de La Renta Pour Lui, YSL vintage Kouros, Hermes Equipage, Knize Ten, Moustache Rochas etc, etc....well, you can't miss Charles Joudan Un Homme. A diaphane opening is by soon an amazing revelation of aromatic elements and chypre accords, a blast of artemisia, terragon, rosemary, lavender, bergamot, dry patchouli, carnation/geranium, resinous amber and powdery-woody tonka. Along the way leather, wax, dry tobacco and oakmoss start emerging with all that wondeful charge of talky-honeyed chypre nuances. Amber provides talky warmth, a touch of animalic and sticky thickness while jasmine (a stuffy honeyed kind of) takes emerging with all its honeyed "cologney" appeal. Sharp floral notes (geranium and carnation in particular) enhance a general sense of vegetal earthiness, clean detergent refinement and neutral soapiness. The woodiness is mostly cedary and almost incensey (with a secret pencil shavings far echo). All around the atmosphere is powdery, leathery, soapy/barber-shop (with hints of hesperidic wetness) and mossy/incensey (actually soapy/aldehydic more than incensey). Along dry down musks, jasmine and tonka enhance an amplified sense of evocative fresh/airy exoticism. In our depressing age of job flexibility, global terror and shut doors this classic potion exudes manly comfort, leatherwears luxuriousness, sensible wisdom, Grand Hotels conventions, exotic travels and love for tradition, all in one we catch that left back optimistic aura projected by our great dads in the age of creativity and success.
03rd December, 2015 (last edited: 04th December, 2015)
Un Homme by Charles Jourdan is an extremely solid, charming and well-made aromatic fougère for men clearly in the same league of Azzaro pour Homme, playing pretty much the exact same main key notes – anisic-powdery notes of lavender and sage on green, flowery-mossy woods. But there’s a twist unique enough to make it worthy having; it smells basically like a sort of wilder, darker, grassier version of Azzaro. “Wilder” not because it is more aggressive or louder, actually in fact it smells really mannered and classy; but because it has some really vibrant, natural quality which makes it really close to the actual smell of wet grass and freshly-cut green branches, also with a nondescript sort of “cloudy” feel, evoking a tense gust of air before a storm. Also spicier and dirtier, with bold notes of cloves and patchouli that provide weight to a feel of subtle dark leather that will gain more and more strength as time passes. So imagine Azzaro pour Homme in its utmost vintage splendour, just wrapped in leather and wet grass. Azzaro pour Homme “The Kinky Gardener Edition”. I also agree to references other reviewers made – Captain Molyneux, Oscar de la Renta pour Lui, Krizia Uomo... dark-green aromatic fougères, that’s the family and Jourdan surely sits on the top of it. Brilliant!
On the the initial fresh burst of bergamot and lavender is short, maybe fifteen minutes, and then suddenly it collapses into a exceedingly faint patchouli. I was ready to write it off, when suddenly, like a Phoenix from the ashes, it returned witha base of wood, a touch of tobacco and, most prominently, a wonderful oakmoss, one of the best of its kind. Think Revillon's French Line but deeper, darker, more nuanced, saturated and autumnal. This first-class oakmoss is what, on my skin, makes this a very impressive fougère. After the first couple of hours it remains very close to my skin, with a very adequate longevity of about four hours.
well well well ... I really cannot add any more comments as one of Basenotes top reviewers ericrico describes it perfectly .
Im that lucky other friend & thank him for parting with a bottle .
Its a top quality frag that is worth searching for .
I don't get the Oscar Pour Lui connection , but the Azzaro PH aura in it i noticed instantly .
Its not a brute powerhouse but certainly packs sillage & above average longevity.
An excellent fragrance from 1979...a year after Azzaro Pour Homme came out. The scent pyramid, while scaled down from Azzaro PH, has some similarities - and the nose behind it is Francoise Caron. The beautiful sharp opening of bergamot and lavender is accompanied by a distinct anise note (not mentioned above) as well as tarragon. It is bright and has the quality of an excellent pastis or absinthe in aroma. This is, in my humble opinion, truly fantastic! It is a lifted opening that immediately gets your attention and warms wonderfully to the skin. One who knows Vintage scents will immediately realize just "how" good this is within the first few minutes - and the best is yet to come.
For true lovers of Aromatic Fougeres...this is an excellent bottle and far surpasses many scents from the time period. The patchouli and cedar in the heart are brilliant along with a nice carnation and geranium. I, personally, do not detect jasmine although it is listed in other pyramids. There is nothing powdery about this either. Smooth, very smooth - an aura scent. One does not need to apply heavily, but definitely let it breathe on your pulse points. The projection is excellent and the longevity is very good indeed.
The base is where the refined power and beauty really show what this scent can deliver. With the lavender and anise carrying through to the end of the heart, it transitions to a very smooth and rich leather and very distinct oakmoss. The aromatics here are superb - with a smooth high-quality sandalwood, tonka bean and musk entering as complimentary notes. But it is the leather and oakmoss that, for me, make this composition outstanding. The patchouli stays for a long time too with the anise, lavender, and base notes - creating a nice earthy green note that is sharp and articulate. A touch of warm amber is detectable about 90 minutes in...which adds even more dimension and longevity.
Note separation here is simply incredible! It is astounding how good the quality of this fragrance is...quite possibly THE best aromatic fougere from the 70's & 80's that is relatively unknown (and definitely one of the best overall). I highly recommend it.
I bought a lot of several bottles from a private seller who I consider a friend and shared one at cost with a good friend here on Basenotes. I will let them add their comments - but for anyone who has a deep love for Vintage Azzaro Pour Homme (and Aromatic Fougeres in general) would find this as a stand-out bottle. I most certainly do.
No note is intrusive. Balance. Elegance. Great depth. Distinct and defined notes. Excellence. Very masculine with a macho vibe, but not overly so - this is in a word, suave. I cannot compare this to Vintage Oscar Pour Lui, except how one can separate the notes and smell the exceptional quality. To be worn with appropriate attire, confidence and a grin. This fragrance is another reason why Vintage Aromatic Fougeres with real oakmoss are so dear to me. They will never be made again as IFRA has banned oakmoss.
My final score for a lost and nearly forgotten gem - 9+/10. Cheers.
11th July, 2012 (last edited: 02nd August, 2012)
Spicy aromatic woods and moss. Very masculine and classy. Longevity on the naturally oakmoss base is phenomenal. The lavender is amazing, too, and soapy but not potent soapy. Opening is very strange but that's just the opening which settles do.
PS This fragrance is as old as I am. Would you call me "dated"?