Vetiver (1961)
by Guerlain

About 35 years ago (when I was a VERY young boy mind you), I was given a little miniature bottle of Guerlain Vetiver along with a couple minis of some other scents which I can't remember. I loved Vetiver and wore it often. I'm pretty sure I was the only kid my age wearing cologne at that time, but I drained that bottle. I had pretty much forgotten about this one until fairly recently. I have heard that our memories of smells are fairly accurate, and to my nose this one smells identical to the one I had all those years ago. I read of how horrible the current incarnation of Vetiver is since all the reformulations, but I still love it as much as I did when I was a kid. It's a classic spicy, woody, citrus, tobacco scent that works for me in all times and in all situations. I hope I'm never without it!

Update: Having procured a vintage bottle of Vetiver (brown juice) I must say that I do agree that the reformulation is not as rich as the former formulations. This particular vintage (1998) has a much more prominent nutmeg component, a reduced tobacco note and a much more pronounced pure vetiver note. I think that the current formulation is very good, but perhaps due to restrictions, it is not quite as satisfying as earlier incarnations of the scent. Either way, this is an excellent fragrance.

June 2009:

Guerlain’s classic Vetiver introduces itself with a very wet, round citrus accord. It takes some time before the citrus is underpinned by a relatively mellow vetiver note. Later in the course of its development it also reveals a touch of smoke and some crisp green notes that extend the life of the opening citrus accord.

The fragrance cruises along in vetiver-citrus mode for a long time, and I find its uncomplicated structure brisk and refreshing. Guierlain Vetiver is a classical fragrance in the true sense of the word. Like an ionic temple or a Mozart concerto, it exhibits perfect balance, with no extraneous elements to distract from its essential form. If you’re looking for the aggressively earthy, stark, potent vetiver of Route du Vétiver, Vétiver Extraordinaire, or Etro’s Vetiver, you won’t find it here. But if you want a comfortable, civilized approach to the vetiver root, this is it.

August 2009:

I have an odd relationship with Guerlain's Vetiver. I keep thinking that I ought to like it much, much more than I do. With tobacco, nutmeg, coriander and neroli gracing its star note, this stuff should be catnip for me. An yet - it never strikes as much more than "OK."

Why is that? Could it be that I've become accustomed to bolder, more aggressive vetivers, like Encre Noire or Route du Vétiver? No, that can't be it, since I find the more polite and civilized Sycomore and Givenchy Vetyver far more compelling than the Guerlain. Whatever keeps me from loving Guerlain Vetiver dearly lies with the scent itself. As I wear it and study it, I notice a few things:

First, it's very linear on me once the vetiver and cedar emerge.

Second, it's very, very shy on my skin. After fifteen minutes of wear I always have to search for it with my nose to make sure it's still there.

Third, and most disappointing, is that the vetiver and cedar heart smells oddly hollow and emaciated to me, as if the flesh on the accord has been whittled away by some erosive force, and only the skeleton remains.

I still want to like it, but I can't actually find all that much in it to like.

This is a vetiver that is seemingly simple and gives vetiver a clean, elegant and citrusy interpretation. But when noticing the unfolding of the different elements it reveals interesting layers of simple yet surprising combinations.

Citrus in the initial inhale turns into a peppery heart of nutmeg absolute, revealing the magic of this precious spice, which is the most supreme in this type of distillation, just as the freshly grated nuts. Pepper absolute is also present but to a lesser extend – it’s the luxury of nutmeg that is the star of the show.

A mysterious floral presence is secretly woven into the heart as well. It took me a while to place the jasminoidal floralcy and the almost candy-like fruitiness of orange blossom. It is only there to bond between the otherwise dry and somewhat eccentric notes, and you’ll notice it only if you lend an alert ear to it’s quite song.

The supporting base notes are of almost equal earthiness to that of vetiver – the infamous preciousness of aged patchouli, alluring as an adventure into closet full of clean woolen shawls. Cured tobacco leaves accentuate the dryness of vetiver, while tonka bean adds sweetness as well as a pipe tobacco suggestion. The base accord and dry down has a suave, elegant presence of palse suede leather and the smoothness of burnished woods along with that sweet and tart earthiness of vetiver that usually shows up only later into its dry down, once all the sharpness has dissipated.

These notes do not come one after the other in a procession; rather, they are dynamic and interactive, like a group of sea mammals surfacing out of the water for a breath in alternating moments, and at the end of only the vetiver sticks around and continues to play with the patchouli, tonka and tobacco which stays behind to keep it company.

Despite of its relative simplicity and innocent, almost non-ambitious treatment of vetiver. Vetiver by Guerlain is now a classic. It’s simplicity is both timeless and charming. If you love vetiver, you must try Guerlain’s interpretation. I haven’t tried all the vetiver fragrances there are in the entire world yet, but this won my heart instantly.

How can I not love this scent? Despite the rumors about having changes and worsened along the years, for me it's one of the most classic, inoffensive and gentlemanly scents still available today. Besides the discreet, but persistent lasting power of 12+ hours on my skin (although after about 12 it becomes a very dim, yet not vapid presence, it's just that I'm marginally aware of it, even after so many hours after application). What i love about this one is the clean, crispy warmth, the exquisite impression of effortless distinct and the fact that it develops into something containing much more than Vetiver- it takes quite a while to discover what is beneath the initial earthy and resinous blast of vetiver, but after that, the finesse up to the point of imperceptibility of aromatic notes (although "green, very different from vetiver, the spice and even a slight leathery touch, which can neither be described as the dark, macho, Gothic leather found in some scents, nor the vapid, teeny suede note found in others, it's rather an uncommon tobacco-leather mixture, including the most complex and uncommon association this note can trigger, come to life). I think it's admirable that a fragrance from 1961 is not only still available today, but also upholds very conservative standards of quality seldom to be found in contemporary fragrance world. Almost an old-timer style trip into the depths of the (unfortunately) increasingly inaccessible of true Parisian chic. Hence, this one can be called- along very few other classics- one of the last scents of the golden age of French perfume,which, in spite of being a flawless masterpiece, a luxurious reflection of couture, of both exclusively elegant and highly intellectual salons, has managed to avoid the trappings, complications and restrictiveness of niche marketing- it's not afraid to show that it's "just" a designer fragrance, however finely crafted by one of these few famous designer houses which managed to avoid the hype, the overblown frenzy created around the niche frags lately, counterbalancing them with
a simple, puristic reputation, a grantee for outstanding and continuously kept quality, for sheer, unaltered, but almost axiomatic, almost dogmatic quintessence of unquestionable elegance, that particular mood of French stylishness, which can be natural, sensual, bohemian, without failing one single second to be effortlessly mannered, elitist, high-class and high-culture at the same time. For this reason, i guess that GV and a very few other other equally clean-cut close contemporaries from other traditional designer houses, bear a name and a myth equal to an unlimited, always kept promise and guarantee of good taste, sometimes even putting some overrated, but much more moody, unpredictable and less sustainable niche houses in inferiority (and remember, this comes from a hardliner fan of niche frags)- compared to these, GV is a more sober, apparently more simple, but much more safe, inoffensive and discreet way to smell like niche and even beyond, for the cost and the implications of a designer scent.

It's all true. This is a wonderful classic scent and it's a horrible gagging thing. Though they say the scent was not changed in the 2000 re-design, it was. If you can find it in the pre-re-design version, you'll likely love it. Post-2000 version, you *will* be running to the sink trying to wash it off before you hurl. I'm getting kind of grey myself, but even for me the new version evokes a powdery visit to granny's underwear drawer. Hideous.

Vetiver is an old classic that never goes out of style. It always smells fresh and clean on any guy. I like it because it blends well with my body chemistry being I'm a swarthy, hairy guy, and can sweat very easily. It keeps me smelling fresh all day long and I never get a headache from Vetiver. My wife uses it sometimes too because she just loves the freshness it has to it.