Vétiver (1957)
by Carven

I started to wear Vétiver in the mid-70's and for years, this was my signature fragrance. I can't think of any other EDT that smelled better on me. It was fresh and citrusy at first and after a while, it became intense, woody and green. The dry down was warm and extremely sensuous. I had nothing but compliments when I wore it. Back then, the lasting power was incredible. Sometimes, I would put it at 7 a.m. and it would still be very noticeable late at night. Unfortunately, I had to give it up. I don't know if Carven changed the composition of Vétiver or if my metabolism has changed over the years but the last bottle I used was no stronger than after-shave. The scent was completely gone less than one hour after I sprayed it. I was very disappointed but I still have great memories of this wonderful fragrance.

18th October, 2011.

I don't  know about the other versions (i've tried the first one when i was a child but the memory does't help me) but the current formulation is a decent citrus-lavender and grassy vetiver with some sweetness in composition coming from the spices (nutmeg above all) and with a moderate soft woodsy dry down determined by the combination of amber and benzoin or styrax plus musk and vetiver. The addition of violet leaves keeps high the level of sharpness adding a sort of slightly metal and tarry final touch that prevents the smell to become too smooth (some people talk about the smell of the streets after rain and i see the association). I smell a sheer cedarwood while perceive a barely noticeable smell of vetiver. In the last formulation they reduced or abaited the note of myrrh. The final issue is more citrusy and grassy than rooty or earthy with a touch of smoothness in the final but with a tarry barely perceivable undertone.

14th August, 2011. (Last Edited: 24th October, 2011.)

I was fortunate to get the original Carven Vetiver.
Briefly, it has been through several versions.
* 1957 - pictured above. A rectangular bottle with rounded edges and a green plastic cap. Green box.
* 1990's reissues. Early bottles had a wooden cap, later ones had a silver metal cap. Revamped green box with a white chevron on it. Allegedly weaker in style.
* 2006 reformulation. White box, square bottle. Different list of notes
* 2009 alternate version? Called "Le Vetiver".

By all accounts the original is the best, and without trying the later versions I find it to be very good. The opening is full of lemony goodness. It quickly takes on an earthy, dry and slightly spice character that is old-school and full of charm. Wood notes work well with the vetiver. The vetiver is very green in style: it is invigorating and at times has a soapy-fresh, coniferous aspect. The dry-down develops lovely creamy sandalwood and green moss notes. The scent is never sweet or heavy, and it wears very well. I'd say that if you are a vetiver fan and can find the *original* it is worth checking out.

5th August, 2011.

The original Vetiver by Carven was outstanding and I remember as a little boy being fascinated by it, an uncle of mine used it and I would sneak into his bathroom and just smell the bottle, never to dare to try it on me.
A few weeks ago I found in ebay a 3.4 oz bottle and I could not resist it. When it arrived I realized it was not the bottle I remembered, instead it was a squared bottle that reminded me of BBW perfumes, but with rounded edges, nothing special.
I sprayed on me and what a huge disapointment, it was not the Vetiver I liked when a boy, it is not bad, if you did not expect something better, but for me it was an horrible disappoinment.
The opening citric notes smells more like candy, almost like a lemon drop with some tar, absolutely synthetic, the heart is nothing to call home for, and the drydown is cheap and synthetic, plasticky, a bit like used gauze.
They keep altering great fragrances and I think they are cheating on the costumer to use names of great old fragrances to bring new fragrances that are not even the shadow of the original.

3rd November, 2010.

I love this, one the best vetivers around! Now I'm wondering, how many bottles has this had? My first bottle looked very cheap and basic, the one I have just bought has a wooden lid and looks a bit retro. Seems to be lasting well so I'm glad it's not the new square one people seem to be complaining about!

27th August, 2010.

I am reviewing the 2006 reissue.

In the interest of full disclosure, I have never sampled the original Carven Vetiver nor the 90's reissue. I am reviewing this on its own merits.

The top notes are a sharp, piercing lemon carried on lemongrass. The opening is enough to make you sneeze. This blast has little to no depth, as if the oiliness of the lemon had been burned out of it, leaving nothing but acid. So far this is not looking good.

The heart of this fragrance mostly eludes me. When it does not elude me, it annoys me. I get something vaguely spicy (nutmeg?) and something sweet. The sweetness is a high-pitched, cotton-candy sugar (lavender, other floral?). At this point, I have nearly given up on trying to like this one.

But then, in the base, I get a view of the fire that burned the oils out of the lemon. It is an outdoor fire with white hot smoke; a bonfire in the desert at night. It ejects bitter minerals up into the cold sky. This dry and dusty gathering of vetiver is nearly worth the clumsy journey. My only caveat here is that the shrieking, sweet, powdery candy has joined the gathering at this very special place and it is threatening to ruin the evening.

The base lasts four to six hours if applied liberally, but the sillage is near zero from start to finish.

This one is worth a try but it will probably not be a favorite.

25th August, 2010.