I am hard pressed to think of another perfume that is so instantly attractive to my nose. It is a relatively simple scent based on three notes - rose, patchouli, and plum - but the interplay between these three notes is fascinating. The opening is that of plums on the turn, a sweet smell of fruit slowly rotting in the sun. This is a genius note, because since it is so quickly joined by a wet young rose and damp, earthy patchouli, you aren't quite sure whether the fruity decay belongs to the rose or to the freshly upturned earth, so the rotting plums effectively form a bridge between the rose and patchouli. It actually kind of reminds me of Diorella a bit - not the scent itself, but the way that the note of rotting fruit is set against the earthy background notes to create dissonance and interest. The feel of the perfume is wet, lush, and what I can only describe as "botanical".
I don't find this as dark or as brooding as other reviewers. The patchouli dominates the rose, yes, but it is not a sinister, raw, or aggressive sort of patchouli. In fact, that brings me to what I see as a big drawback to this scent: the whole thing comes off as quite delicate and transparent, like a Japanese silk screen print. With notes as "tasty" as these, you want the scent to be deep, bloody, resonant and almost pounding in their intensity. But this never provides that rich type of boldness I crave. Another issue is longevity / sillage. Normally, I don't care about this at all, placing most if not all of the importance on the quality of the fragrance itself and whether I respond to it or not. But I have to say that I would like to at least be able to smell the fragrance on me one hour after applying.....
I had the opportunity to buy this at a very good price from a fellow basenoter, but after dithering for a few days, I decided not to pull the trigger, due to these issues. I tested about three vials of the fragrance over the course of two days, each time dumping the entire vial on my skin: each time, the same thing happened - after one hour, the fragrance had grown almost too faint to smell, and after two hours, all trace of it was gone. It's a great pity, because the smell itself is just amazing. It really is. One of the most gorgeous perfumes I've tested in the last six months. But even at the excellent price at which this was offered, it is still too costly to use purely as a cologne splash, which is the only way I could ever get this to stay perceptibly on my skin. Two big thumbs up for the smell itself though.
I like roses. But here the rose note is dark and sad.VdR reminds me of cologne and after shave. I would not recommend it to women. Nice the rosewood note in the heart, anyway.
To me this scent lives on two blood supplies: a rich smooth earth patchouli and a dark velvety rose. The first blast is sweet-peppery to my nose, but after a couple of minutes this glucose attack rescinds and the shadowy gloomy rose appears. In the drydown a flavor of died prunes temporarily greets me from afar, but the rose moves on further into the drydown. In the last gasps a touch of creaminess appears, and these last gasps are eleven hours after the first spritz: the longevity is sensational, as is the silage and projection. Deeply earthy And wonderful as autumn rose. One of the remarkable L'Artisans - it was worth stealing those roses...
VdR is simply a gorgeous scent. It's been said many times, but it definitely gives off that damp soil and rose feel. Lots of reviews will mention goth, but to me this feels very alive. One day, I was wearing No.88 all day, and by the end I had become tired. No.88 was just too solemn and dry for me that day. I came home and sprayed on VdR and it was like night and day--one dead, the other full of life. There's definitely also a hint of camphor that creeks out once in while, which is very nice.
Lasting power on this is great. Two sprays under the shirt was enough for it to pump out all day at work.
Admirers of Zino and Ungaro I should try this.
Voleur de Roses: What a remarkable piece of perfumery. Unlike others, I don't detect any crashing thunder and lightening. Rather, I discern the harmony of a rose garden hours after the rain, when the sun is high in the noon-day sky and all of the essence of the roses have melded with soil, dampness, fruit and bark, perhaps sycamore tree, in the warmth of the moment...before everything becomes parched once again.
This rose is the rose I used to smell in rose gardens; this rose is at once boozy and bright; this rose is joined with plum and patchouli (favorites of mine) to create something close to an archtypal rose or as Diana Vreeland might say, the way roses ought to smell!
This is not an everyday scent for me. Special occassions, special moods and above all, when you want to impress that special person; it's very intoxicating. I think I've found my holy grail of Rose.