Xeryus (1986)
by Givenchy

Xeryus is one of the better Givenchy fragrances. As noted in the directory, this is a heavily woody scent. Opens freshly with citrus and herbs and mellows down into a typical sweet woody, ambery base.

Don't say just "wood" or even "incensy" about this one. Though it starts with an almost hallucigenic blast of fruit flavored chewing gum it moves into a subtle presence of something from a Hindu or Tibetan ritual. It's like the scent of something you really don't quite know about, a very refined form of liquid psychedelia. Linear yes, but trippy stuff.

Finally got around to trying this one. I was afraid that it would come off smelling like Kouros, but it isn't anything like it. The fragrance definitely projects itself on my skin and the cypress jumps out giving it a fresh herbal scent through most of it's life. Love it.

I liked the top but then I realized that the particular type of musk in the base feels archaic and feminine to me, and I'm not sure why...like a shiny but tacky old leather jacket that someone thought was stylish when it was new. I probably should have been more patient with it, but it was suffocatingly heavy at times so I just let it go. This was in the old grey monolith bottle (which BTW I think is an awesome monument of 80s memorabilia) and I don't know if it was reformulated when the bottle was changed.

Heavily woody scent that I wouldn't want to see anyone below twice my age wearing. This is what I'd consider woody gone wild and overboard, similar to Halston Catalyst and I detest both for the same reason.

Notes (from the bottle):

Top: Basil, Clary Sage
Middle: Violet leaves, Green Accord
Base: Exotic woods, amber

(from other sites: the green accord is composed of galbanum, tarragon and geranium, and exotic woods: gaiac wood, sandalwood, vetiver).

A male tandem to Givenchy Ysatis, Xeryus is an 80s powerhouse fragrance although its aromatic fougere composition isn't as butch or lumberjack-like as other virile man juices from the 70s and 80s. The trifecta of basil, clary sage and violet leaves carry Xeryus resulting in a dry, bitter, herbal and somewhat minty fragrance. The "bitter" component stood out to my nose during my initial interaction with Xeryus but soon the whole composition fell into place. The basil note is responsible for a herbal sweetness while the sage note gives off its trademark hay like herbal and slightly bitter aroma. With a combo of such inherently bitter notes there's a danger of Xeryus transforming into a poisonous potion that only perfume enthusiasts with chemistry Phds, in the name of "perfumers art", would lose their marbles over, but a geranium note of the minty-green (rather than the rosy musty) variety inconcert with a translucent violet note provides a much needed blast of airiness and creates a near perfect balance of green and bitter-herbal aroma.

The characteristic accord of Xeryus pretty much defines it. The fragrance sports good longevity (around 7 hours) but is pretty linear. The amber in the base is almost non-existent, with only lite hints of sandalwood and vetiver peeking out towards the end of this show. Its not as dynamic as I wanted it to be, but this Givenchy classics' core (masculine) accord is blended to near perfection. Xeryus is ysatis's passionate lover with a hardhitting and virile accord. How hard is it? Thats what she said.

Rating: 8.25/10.0