
The name "Hubert de Givenchy" will ring like gold to our French friends, for his astonishing impact on fashion during the 1950's, and again in the 1970's when his "Givenchy Gentlemen" line is launched and received extremely well. His involvement in Audrey Hepburn's fashion life, as well as his friendship with Cristobal Balenciago, only accelerate his progress in the fashion industry. However, we're not the French, and we're not going to discuss fashion -- so let's get down to his colognes.
His reputation for fine clothing had set the stage for such fragrances as "Monsieur de Givenchy", "Vetiver", and "Givenchy Gentleman" to be launched, invoking the interest of those who were already into the Givenchy fashion scene to enter the world of elegant scent. While Monsieur de Givenchy and Vetiver were before the time of the male fashion line, they are not without taste; a warm and soft blend of ingredients with passion equivalent to masterpieces in today's fragrant scene. Givenchy Gentleman, however, was launched a year after his line of clothing for men, and thusly was meant to complement high-end attire -- and it did. A charismatic blend of patchouli, leather, and citrus; Gentleman was a classic scent of the 70's, and still holds it's place as one of the finer colognes of the past; and these classic scents continued throughout the life of Givenchy's own formulations. While they are not numerous, they each carry their own soul and dignity. Through the Gentleman's, Xeryus', Insense's, Monsieur de Givenchy II's, and Insense Ultramarine's, we arrive to our destination: Xeryus Rouge.
To put it politely, the scents before Xeryus Rouge were... unobtrusive. They were simple, classic, lovely, and anybody and everybody could handle them -- they were the exotics that were so genuine in compilation that they were loved. Xeryus Rouge, on the other hand, is a demanding, attention-whoring, in-your-face liquid made from the most unfathomable of ingredients, including volcano-fresh lava, a jump-kick to your face, an assault of brass-knuckled punches to your gut, a spiked baseball bat to your knees, and quite possibly T-Rex skulls from the pre-historic era. This is nosegasm-inducing bottled masculinity somehow captured against its will.
So then, I think we've established that Xeryus Rouge doesn't follow the previous "Gentlemen" line that Givenchy had produced in the past -- and for a damn good reason, too. In 1995, aquatics and floral scents were blossoming like pretty little flowers, and dainty, cutesy fragrances that were "light" and "floral" were sweeping the world of colognes -- Givenchy, balls in hand (probably both hands necessary), strutted forward and burned the Lavenders, the Lily of the Valleys, and the citrus notes -- replacing them with the very things that man was not made to touch, for the fear that excessive bleeding would occur. Cactus, for example, and a slew of spices that would make Columbus sail around the world yet again in search of them, were all thrown together to create a Frankenstein of scents; the only thing in the world that says it's middle name is "dangerous" and doesn't bullshit around; a scent that is synonymous with "manly", and has a name which appears to be French for "Lethal Amounts of Testosterone"
But don't let that fool you, because underneath this beast lies a beauty. Believe it or not, when Givenchy created Satan's Lotion, he actually put some human soul into it; and there's alot that people tend to miss. For example, the top notes are smooth and mellow, with softly-sweet notes of living cactus and kumquat, which give off such a powerful vibe, that it seems to cause a ripple in the fabric of space itself. Every whiff you get fluctuates between mellow and powerful; the harmony between evil and good is in a fine balance as you inhale the soft subtleties of kumquat, followed by the harsh dryness of cactus -- but it's this balance, this yin and yang to Xeryus Rouge, that accentuates the fragrance as a whole. There is no overload on sweetness, nor is it shy on the woodsy backdrop; everything in balanced in a divine way. It's really quite hard to get tired of this cologne, or to not be able to appreciate it, because of the way it is constructed. The kumquat and cactus are the primary top, heart, and base notes, penetrating through the triangle as a duo, and being enlightened by the other ingredients in the scent. The setup is similar to a Boucheron's Jaipur, but rather than being heliocentric, it remains triangular, except as you descend in each layer, the ingredients favor the cactus and kumquat, which is a remarkable achievement, considering that every layer has a handful of ingredients that are placed specifically to complement the cactus/kumquat combination -- and this is absolutely crucial to how wonderful this scent really is.
Consider it this way: you have a setup of Cactus and Kumquat that are always present, but since those are relatively "fruity" (in the manliest way possible), the strong woodsy and spicey subnotation gives way to a relatively large influence of smell, based on whichever note is coming out. Now, since we have a duo acting as the center of the stage, we can assume that any two of our spices/woods are going to blend in with the scent at any given time, but given the similarities between the woods/spices, they won't blend together. The effect is literally an everchanging cologne, with a slightly different rendition of cactus and kumquat every hour. There is always that apparent notation of these two key ingredients, but the scent that lingers along with them is what's evolving. You may find yourself with a cactus/cedar and kumquat/pepper combination, but half an hour later, you might smell cactus/musk and kumquat/germanium, or any mix of the wonderful plethora of ingredients that make up Xeryus Rouge.
However, the fact that it is so complex brings up a huge problem: in the same way that most of our minds cannot comprehend quantum physics, most of our noses cannot discern between the minor differences every half an hour, and so that makes casual wearing very hard. Unless you're going out for 4-5 hours, wearing a suit so masculine that Clark Kent himself could not justify wearing it, and you don't mind not having a proper drydown and scent-life, then Xeryus Rouge isn't your scent. Don't get me wrong, I love it, it definitely is one of those scents that you just don't have to care about drying down properly, because it never really does, it just constantly changes, but some may find it frustrating that the scent never seems to progress in the way that most others do. Regardless of that, Xeryus Rouge scores a very well-earned 8/10.