Perfume Directory

Yohji Homme (1999)
by Yohji Yamamoto

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Yohji Homme information

Year of Launch1999
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 212 votes)

People and companies

HouseYohji Yamamoto
PerfumerJean-Michel Duriez
Parent CompanyIFD Group
Parent Company at launchJean Patou

About Yohji Homme

Yohji Homme was launched in 1999 as a male partner to Yohji. Housed in a tall elegant bottle, this fragrance was originally created by Jean Kerleo for the then license holder Jean Patou Parfums.

In 2002 The Yohji license was acquired by Procter & Gamble after they purchased Jean Patou, however, three years later P&G decided to end the license with Yohji Yamamoto and all the fragrances were discontinued.

2012 saw the relaunch of all the Yohji Yamamoto fragrances, including Yohji Homme. The fragrance was reworked by Givaudan perfumer Olivier Pescheux to ensure it met current regulations.

Yohji Homme fragrance notes

Reviews of Yohji Homme

Probably the biggest advance in the fougère since Azzaro pour Homme, Yohji Homme takes the anisic fougère and using liquorice and rosewood connects it to a dark, chypre-like base. To this, Jean-Michel Duriez added a third, gourmand element based around coffee (or cocoa) rum and vanillin.

The result is a fairly sweet but dark and gritty hybrid that moves Yohji Homme close to the kind of territory already staked out by Mugler, first with Angel and then later with A*Men. And because of this doubt about its originality, Yohji Homme doesn't quite make the top spot.

Even so, when taken on its own merits, the dark and woody-anisic Y-H is a very nice wear in the Long John Silver mould : Yo-Ho ho and a Barrel of rum...


As well as the EdT there was an aftershave version. This opens with a citrus and bergamot overtone, and in the very top there is also menthol - which gives it a cooling aftershave effect on the skin. The menthol and bergamot are supported by a discrete matt-green herbaceous accord, and there is also a red fruity note and more sweetness than in the EdT. Together, these facets give the AS a different focus, stretching it out into a more conventional head - heart - base structure.

As the two descend through the profile, the lighter and more playful AS and the dark and brooding EdT tend to approach one another but they never quite touch and land in different places.

It's a pity the AS hasn't been reissued because it is a very nice version of the YH theme, one that gains in clarity what it loses in strength.

Both versions are very good.

4*+

This review is based on the 1998 versions.
21st November, 2019
In an alternate world, Yohji Homme could have been a brilliant Fougère. Substitute licorice for lavender, rum & coffee for coumarin and patchouli and musk for oak moss. A counterintuitive bone structure for an entire olfactive genre, but so is a classical fougere(or Chypre for that matter), if you really stop to think about it.

What I mean is, this scent is a titan and could have easily been as big a hit as something like A*men, which rightly has 23,000(and counting) flankers and more imitators, given the right circumstance.

It’s sad that the Patou version is disappearing. People are using their bottles and even now the top notes on my bottle are starting to disperse. But this ephemeral nature only makes me love it more. Wear it while you still can!
11th July, 2019
It's as if one took a particularly statuesque model and recast its overall form as a mannequin. Make no mistake, I mean this as the highest compliment to the nose behind this classic. Its charms are syncretic and it stands as a unique innovation on a tried-and-true genre.

It has the soul of a fougere, but with these
delectable, unnaturally potent boozy-gourmand notes added in. (I, for one, almost always love seeing anise notes but respect that they are a polarizing, acquired taste)

The finishing white musk is just as freakish (& gorgeous because of it) as the gourmand element though of course it is incorporated seamlessly. To pursue my earlier comparison,
the bones of the drydown are about what you expect but transmuted just enough to keep things thrilling.

The scent balances the line between familiarity and novelty perfectly and its position makes this uncanny scent one I love revisiting.

Timeless.


06th March, 2019
Yohji Homme by Yohji Yamamoto came at a time when the gourmand was just starting to pick up steam on the men's side of the fragrance spectrum, and as one of the final products of legendary perfumer Jean Kerleo before he left Patou (who created Yohji Yamamoto's scents at first), this gets a big push by collectors and enthusiasts. It's an unlikely hero to the fans of Kerleo to be fair, as most of his past masculine scent work seemed to be arguably more traditional in construction, or at least built upon tradition. Yohji Homme was frankly as much the opposite of traditional men's perfumery as one might get in 1999, even compared to the citric ozonics and aquatics of the day. Yohji Homme, as the male counterpart to Yohji (1996); a feminine gourmand that also can be labelled unisex in some ways, didn't seem to take a hard-line stance on it's own gender assignment, which is perhaps part of it's appeal. We were in a new age of deliberately-marketed unisex perfume thanks to the success of Calvin Klein's CK1 (1994), but both Yohji scents made by Kerleo could be enjoyed interchangeably by either sex, despite who they were "meant for", as I see quite a few men sing praises about the perfume, plus vice-versa with women and this. It should also be of important note that this was touched up by perfumer Olivier Pescheux to meet IFRA standards after Patou gave up the license and Yohji Yamamoto relaunched these on his own in 2012 (only to see them discontinued one more final time a few years later).

Yohji Homme opens with bergamot, sage, juniper berry, cinnamon, cardamom, and a very famous licorice note. Some folks cite lavender as being in this, but I can't really detect it myself amidst all the spice and herbs. The middle is quite boozy with a rum note that then later hands you coffee for the hangover it will give you, and geranium lingers in the background before it all dries in a bootstrap type of leather, with soft musk and patchouli keeping it warm and sensual. Cedar is the final detectable note here, and it's another drying counterpoint, keeping the musk and rum from being cloying. It's a much better-balanced and blended gourmand than many later ones created in it's wake, particularly more commercial ones like Spark by Liz Claiborne (2003) or Bod Man Body Heat by Parfums de Coeur (2007) that both go strait for sweet and warm with no mercy. Yohji Homme instead plays off it's own mystique, being sweet at times, then dry and earthy, seductive with it's warmth but also light enough on it's feet for diplomacy in an office setting. It's far from a generalist scent but it has enough angles to do more than smell pretty, no pun intended. I feel this deliberately acts like a tease on skin, making you satisfied with the first impression, but also contemplating what it would do if you got closer to the person wearing it; the stuff walks that fine knife's edge between casual and romantic, much like some of my other favorite past scents such as Avon Black Suede (1980) and Chanel Pour Monsieur Eau de Toilette Concentrée (1989), which are both sexy without trying to be.

Yohji Homme's cedar and fairly heavy synthetic white musk note interplay also recalls Jõvan Ginseng N.R.G. (1998) even if they are worlds apart in construction otherwise, plus Avon would seemingly take a stab at Yohji Homme with a gourmand/fougère hybrid called Intrigue (2001), replacing some notes with barbershop staples and going both way darker/drier and more clearly defined as masculine, which removes much of the charming subtlety of the idea Kerleo presents here. Yohji is a fine fall/winter/early spring scent, and is quite literally the perfect gourmand for somebody who doesn't -really- want that typical gourmand feel of coming across as baked goods or a fruit basket when wearing it. I'd say this is one of the better blended, sophisticated, and balanced scents not only of it's genre, but of it's decade, standing apart from all the mega-linear "ocean in a bottle" scents that were littering the fragrance counters in the 90's, plus all the "olfactory dessert" scents which arrived in the 2000's. It's not for every person nor every occasion, but it's fascinating blend of bright spice, dry woods and leather wrapped in soft musk will keep you sniffing. So far as I can tell no aesthetic changes were intentionally made by Pescheux when he adjusted Kerleo's original formula, since there's only one entry for this fragrance here, so any version will do. Try a mini-sized tube before you spend no modest sum for a full bottle, which is comically also a tube, just much larger.
20th February, 2018
Freshly resinous
Je Ne Sais Quoi Pour Homme is
So quite Yohji-san.
10th November, 2017
Sadly for me the scent does not perform or last very long at all, I had high expectations. Perhaps the bottle I have might be a bit faded or compromised.
To me this seems like a weak gourmand scent.
30th January, 2017

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