Being an Arabian style perfume, Gold Man makes cultural references that I fail to get;
but at the same time, knowing it was created by French master perfumer Guy Robert makes me wonder if it's not more pastiche than Persian gulf.
It's not a mixed fragrance in the modern sense, and is not descended from the pre-twentieth century European style which has no definitive gender.
It is a rich piquant rose dusted with sweet powdery iris.
A dissonant structure that creates tension between its rugged base and the effeminate decorative overlay, and which effectively denies a simple gender reading.
Strongly masculine and feminine signifiers are present making it impossible to put this scent exclusively in one camp or the other. It exists in both.
Not an easy wear then. This one is very demanding, and its difficult to know how to approach it.
Rather than being a challenge to be relished in the mould of 3rd Man, or perhaps Insensť, Gold Man could just be too florid to be wearable by western heterosexual men.
Its also maybe too masculine to be easily worn by women.
It's an original and very well made piece of costume perfumery, but whether Gold Man represents welcome liberation from restrictive gender codes, playful irony, or a threat to one's masculinity, must in the end be decided by those who dare to wear it.
29th March, 2015 (last edited: 23rd May, 2015)
On the beach in the Middle East...the essence of lavish sunscreen projects from the skin entwined with the scent of sandalwood cologne; warm wooden decking meets the sand with Jasmine flowers nearby.
The sun is almost unbearable. An Arab passes by smoking a tobacco pipe; behind him in the distance a spice vendor stands at his stall. White marble steps with a gold balustrade lead up to a luxury hotel terrace at the beachside...
This is flat out a woman's scent. It reminds me a lot of some of the Estee Lauder women's fragrances, particularly Youth Dew. It's not that it smells bad, it's just too feminine in my opinion. Too floral & powdery as everyone is saying.
"Or just gold-plated..."
If this is how a gold man should smell according to Amouage, I don't even dare to imagine how their take on a gold woman will be... Don't fool yourselves, this is Russia's secret weapon. If you ever wondered why good old Vladimir Putin is so successful in having his way with everyone, here's your answer. It's not Russian tanks or planes or missiles or submarines or whatever that force everyone into submission. It's an unstoppable compulsion to run away from him as soon as possible, even if that means that you will have to give him your house and your family as part of the deal. Who could last more than ten minutes sitting next to someone doused in it, especially when this someone can allegedly kill you with his bare hands as well, if his perfume fails to do so? It could also be the secret behind Vladimir's otherwise inexplainable rise to power. Being a former KGB member, he'd surely had some ways to lay hands on some bottles, during an era when perfumes were not exactly in abundance there, especially perfumes THAT expensive. Oh, and its name is all about subtlety and low profile. Two traits that are unequivocally known to be Vladimir's middle names. What was that? Oh yes, how does it smell... Well, it smells like myrrh and insense, mixed and burned to glorify Vladimir's grandeur, while he's trying to blow off some (testosterone scented) steam, by hunting civet cats during a state visit in Vietnam. So, depending on whether you like Putin and his Russia or not, you should either request that Amouage Gold Man becomes a centerpiece in Russia's flag, or banished from the face of Earth forever. There's no middle-of-the-road way with it...
Calling this scent a "floral and powdery" is as much of an understatement as describing the Sahara as "large and hot".
The flowers don't merely hit you, they run over you like a truck loaded with rose & jasmine crashing into your living room while you're unsuspectingly watching tv on a particularly hot and humid summer afternoon.
After several hours of unsuccessful scrubbing and wash away the stench you'll start to get the more subtle (if by comparison only) fecal and resinous notes. That is if you can still smell anything at all, of course.
Three of four tries later, you'll get a couple of important lessons:
1. Be extremely conservative on the application of this juice. Just like feeding a tiger, it may be exciting, but one wrong movement and it may rip your arm off.
2. The reviews are not kidding, this thing is special... Special like men who wear eyeliner and remain attractive to women. There are, of course, a few lads who can pull it off: middle eastern princes, mercenary Bedouins and the odd Hollywood-blockbuster pirate. But it would be best left alone by the rest of us unless you want to draw the funny stares that driving a camel to work on suburban Connecticut may get you.
Thumbs up? Well yes! the concoction is beautiful! It manages to be gargantuan and gorgeous at the same time! Sure, it has the power of an angry rhino trashing the perfume section at neiman marcus but after you get over the hell it raises in every nose downwind from you, you realize what a beautiful monster it is.
17th June, 2014 (last edited: 16th June, 2014)