I would say only one thing if you are among the lucky persons owning a vintage bottle: forget the new reformulation.
And if your old bottle contains some drops, or more, of the vibrant almost living dense masterpiece it was, please keep it in a safe: Musc Ravageur has changed and there is no hope of smelling its primitive form anymore. My neutral review is due to this. So, in detail:
Thumbs Up (and more!) for the vintage
Thumbs Down for the new
I have a good-sized sample of this that should last me a lifetime, synthetic-smelling musk and vanilla, similar to Coromandel, although not as good. It lasts a long time, and the longer it lasts, the better it smells; somewhat of a Frederic Malle house trait.
18th November, 2016 (last edited: 20th November, 2016)
a spicy, musky,powdery slightly animalic fragrance.
this one starts off with cloves and cinnamon. the cloves starts to decrease leaving room for the cinnamon, musk and vanilla to take over and transform the smell into a border-line gourmand with a slightly animalic feel. it is also powdery. this fragrance lasts very long. i could still smell it on my skin almost 24 hours after application as a creamy white musk. this is one of the fragrances that i keep exclusive for use at home. its not a go out scent for me.
The name I've associated with the house of Frederic Malle while becoming interested in fragrances is undoubtedly Musc Ravageur, yet I've managed to not try it out for two years until today.
Musc Ravageur seems like it has a heavy dose of labdanum, despite the note's absence from the composition. Otherwise, it opens with lavender, has a heart dominated by cloves, finishing with a lot of powdery tonka. I find that the sharpness of the lavender in the opening outweighs the powdery aspect of the tonka in the
Performance is solid, so even if you love this, it's wise to manage application carefully, as it's on the high-end of EDPs in terms of both projection and longevity.
It's in the same vein as a much superior fragrance like Chanel Coromandel in that both smell of cosmetics/makeup (as do Dior Homme Intense and Chanel Egoiste, to my nose), but Music Ravageur falls a little short in the composition in that it leans toward the "old person" scent in a less desirable way.
It's not bad at all---I quite like it---but I have already found superior alternatives that are more affordable, the most notable of which is the abovementioned Chanel Coromandel.
Pricing is pretty prohibitive if you don't really love it, at retail (through the Frederic Malle website) of $270 for 100ml or $185 for 50ml.
7 out of 10
Excellent stuff and very complex fragrance. High quality musk accord and cloves done very well. Subtle projection and longevity of about 6 hours is enough for me.
Well done FM!