After a light breakfast of croissant, orange juice and, as always, Earl Grey, the bergamot and lemon lightly spiced with a mint sprig, the distinguished gentleman generously tipped the club's waiter and, donning his weathered straw Panama, strolled out the gate and headed for the steamy, noisy markets of Mumbai, his cane under one linen clad arm. The gentleman spent a holiday afternoon among the crowded stalls of exotic spices, flowers, and foods. Soft cardamom mingled with the lavender perfumes of lovely dark skinned women offering their ginger, cumin, pepper, and a host of rich, sun drenched vegetables; and somewhere in the crowd geranium, it's fragrant undertones a favorite of the young Ms. Cotswain back home on Tenpenny Lane. His thought of Ms. Wainscot prompted him to find lovely amber baubles for the lass and, of course, for Mrs. Higginbotham in thanks for lovely meals and motherly doting. Having thus enjoyed his day, the gentleman returned to the club, there to spend the evening relaxing with a book in a deep leather chair in a corner of the lounge, a tumbler of scotch at his side, under a chandelier hanging from the high arched cedar roof beams, the fragrant wood darkened by countless warm nights filled with smoke, patchouli, and the hushed conversation of other guests.
This is another of the family that I would call "light woods," and initially I thought it was going to be very close to their Opus 1870. It's very subtle right out of the vial, with a similar sweet (but not sweetened?) cedar and some orange. It has just enough of the dry pencil-shavings to be a true, believable wood scent, without going overboard; it feels like the notes stay near the surface but I wouldn't call it shallow. It's like a vague shadow of Nicolai New York that has shed the heavier components. There's maybe a hint of bubblegum (frankincense?) in there but not enough to spoil it. I think that Zizonia retains discretely detectable wood and floral notes, while in Opus everything blends together into a transparent, uniform wall of scent. Unfortunately my nose got stuffed up halfway through this, so I may rewrite it later, but I also know that it's weak from previous trials, and that it possesses the same soft, powdery vibe that neuters a lot of their "masculine" offerings.
Twice the price of Cartier's Declaration and half as good. Longevity is worse, it lacks Declaration's sparkle and there is an unappealing mustiness in the woody base. No thanks.
A spicy, woody, floral concoction to my nose. It starts with some black pepper, but immediately I detect some floral accords that may be geranium. Some other spices enter into the mix and it develops that house “Penhaligon’s” note of dusty, powdery accords that I don’t like in many of theirs. Some slight woods and vetiver in the base, but the dusty notes carry through. Longevity is not all that great and I find this one overall pretty middle of the road.
This is a warm, woody, sensual and subtle oriental. The mix of amber, cedarwood and patchouly blend nicely with an undercoating of sandalwood. The black pepper rises to the top and stays nicely floating over these warm notes. This is a perfectly pleasant cologne, though nothing spectacular or out of the ordinary.
20th June, 2011 (last edited: 13th July, 2011)
Classy stuff. It has some similarities with both TDH and Declaration, but this one has much much better quality, and It`s masterfuly blended. Quite unique and original among todays mainstream fragrances. Highly recommended!