New York (1989)
by Parfums de Nicolaï

Given the rave review by the LT himself, I was already interested in trying this one. And when an eminent basenoter compared it to Minotaure, a long-time and semi-discontinued favorite of mine, I really couldn't wait. However, it's been a bit of a disappointment. I would almost give it a thumbs-down, I have so little affection for it, but it is of such obvious quality that I find I end up wearing it occasionally in spite of myself. So I suppose I'm truly neutral.

What's the problem? Well, I really like orange-ambery-vanillic fragrances (thus Minotaure). And it's true, there is a very pleasant, high-quality, orange-amber and vanilla note somewhere in here. But to get to it you have to dig through mounds of quaint powder, and that's only after you've done battle with a cough-inducingly dry, kick-ass moss monster that I would have thought had gone extinct several years prior to 1989.

In short, it's just a lot to deal with first thing in the morning. And that's frankly the only time I would be interested, because this guy is way too serious for a fun night out in Omaha, let alone the Big Apple.

21st January, 2012.

This parfumed beast, as well as many  reviewers underlined, sails in the same oceanic waters of many stars of the olfactory stage; everybody mentioned a huge range of fragrances going from Heritage to Eau Savage, from Habit Rouge to Bois du Portugal, passing on the side of Japuir, Egoiste, Obsession and Pour Monsieur. Personally the fragrance that much more reminds me New York (i mean as kind of statement expressed and not necessarily by strict olfactory resemblance ) is the Classic Boucheron Pour Homme for its plain citrusy mould (the Boucheron one is drier, more herbal, far more floral and stressed in lemony feel while this one is slightly more orangy). Boucheron Pour Homme shares with New York also its  cleverly vintage temperament (citrus-lavender, bergamot and oakmoss) , the notable sophistication, its subtleness, its barely balmy feel. I find more similarities between New York and Bois du Portugal (which has anyway a more vintage and british chord  of bergamot-citrus lavender and a more boise', bright and woody vibe) than with the spicier, sweeter and more vanillic Heritage. Anyway, the paths of comparison would be many and i would like to be much more analytic. The New York's opening is uncompromissingly citrusy and spicy at once (the citrus are basically  lemon and orange), aromatic, fluidy of water-lavender and flavoured by a rich but not overwhelming and particularly mysterious blast of cloves and cinnamon. This averagely sharp phase reminds much more a sort of Acqua di Parma Colonia than properly a spicy oriental and lasts for a couple of hours in its conservative vibe while some astringent flowers keep on steady the level of general moderation. Is like the smell is reticent to express its final touch of "orientalism". The final ambery-mossy and woody accord indeed is moderately powdery and barely balmy, the final vetiver seems to return back a touch of that aqueous feel that keeps a relation with the starting citrus-lavender. The note of amber, in its chord with a shadowy and conservative oakmoss-lavender of the forest, joins in a sort of connection the citrusy top with a fluidy woodsy bottom, impressing a touch of density to the final link. The outcome is extremely balanced and classy, a timeless kind of worldwide elegance.

19th January, 2012. (Last Edited: 20th January, 2012.)

Love it! took me a few wearings to really love this one, as I did smell similarities to a few other fragrances (BdP & a bit of Oscar Por Lui). But, it really is unique and I find myself wearing it often!

14th January, 2012.

Initial review: Combine Chanel's Pour Monsieur Concentree with Shulton's Old Spice, and you get OJ's New York! OK, it's not exactly the same, and New York is definitely my preference over cpmc, but you get the idea. Enjoyable scent if you don't mind spending the money.

12nd December, 2011.

I've read so much about New York that I couldn't resist a full bottle purchase. After a few wears, the orange/amber accord established itself as one that I don't respond to. PdN New York reminds me of an orange Bois du Portugal, which I dislike. With the exception of the brisk citrus/cloves top notes, I just do not enjoy this fragrance. I'll give it a few more tries before abandoning it entirely and heading to Jersey.

4th December, 2011.

I recently bought a new bottle of PdN New York and it is not the same quality fragrance with a deep drydown. It seems yet another classic fragrance has been reformulated. New York is now full of synthetic top notes and does not progress into the once legendary rich scent in which I loved. IMO, skip the (new) New York...
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I have tried BdP, Heritage, Douro, Boucheron and many other similar scents.

Concur with Turin. No need to describe what others have already mentioned.

IMO, PdN's New York is one of the best men's fragrances that have ever passed by my nose.

23rd October, 2011. (Last Edited: 2nd January, 2012.)