L'Ombre dans L'Eau (1983)
by Diptyque

Diptyque L'Ombre dans l'Eau

Notes: black currant leaves and Bulgarian rose (from luckyscent.com)

Despite the meagre listing of notes, to my nose L'Ombre dans l'Eau starts as a bright and uplifting blend of grapefruit, tart berries and rose. The rose is very classical, akin to an old-fashioned rosewater or French milled rose scented soaps, that is to say, "tea rose" or similar. The rose note is very evocative of the type of rose soliflore that make most people hate rose soliflores. Yet, here in L'Odl'E, the rose is brightened marvelously with sour and bitter grapefruit and berry notes. This is one of those synergistic blends where it is possible to recognize the component parts and still appreciate the whole composition which becomes more than the sum of its parts. Classic rose is modernized and made low calorie, in a sense, by the use of fresh fruits. The grapefruit does get a bit sulfurous in the drydown, and I was thinking at first that it was off-putting. Then I realized that paired with the liquor-like rose note, this edginess makes the rose seem even more luscious. It is as if the rose is on the verge of that extremely full-bodied stage of being fermented while still on the stem. The drydown is quite a bit more herbal and green, giving an impression of rose geranium. My only real complaint is that overall the fragrance is a bit linear and not terribly complex. Regardless, this is probably what Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose should have been--it is clear that grapefruit and rose can be very good friends.

Unique opening. Red fruits marmalade still bubbling in the pot, with a touch of white rose petals and a hint of sweet citrus (similar to the one that opens OYEDO). Very sweet and intense feminine mid notes where the Bulgarian rose leads the way to the woods of the base. Great Longevity. Not a mainstream but worth at least a try.

It's always fun to try these polarizing scents. Here, I'm going to have to side with the haters. A bitter, vegetal opening (crushed tomato leaves?) dies down to a vague middle, from which a rather processed-smelling, almost cooked, rose note emerges. There's nothing here I want to smell like. Pass.

Diptyque certainly makes some unconventional, push-the-envelope type scents. This is another one. Here we have a very sharp and harsh green opening. Eventually a dark rose emerges, but the harsh green doesn’t go away. I like the rose somewhat, but the green ruins it for me.

Bitter, jarring opening, melds into an unappealing, artificial rose scent. The least enjoyable Diptyque I have yet to experience.

L'Ombre dans L'Eau is very different from most of Diptyques offerings, in that it isn’t strictly a linear scent – not that linearity is a bad thing but it was a very pleasant surprise:

Top notes: Starts off with a very sharp (and masculine) citrus-green opening – it’s one of the best and most unique openings I’ve experienced in quite a while. The presence of the blackcurrant leaves create a dark, pungent and slightly sour accord. This stage lingers for at least 10 minutes.

Mid notes: This is the most challenging stage. At first, I couldn’t quite put my finger on it but (based on other reviews) realised a tomato leaf / plant accord shinning through [for those who loved this stage the best, and wished it lasted longer, the closest scent that comes to mind is Sisley’s Eau de Campagne]. The gradual emergence of the rose can be clearly detected half-way through.

Base notes: Although the green notes remain, albeit more subdued, the rose note becomes more prominent. Unfortunately, some disappointment sets in as I’m heavily reminded of both Lutens’ Sa Majesté la Rose and Montale’s Ta’if Rose. However, based on the sudden relisation that the other two were released at least 15 years later, all respect for this composition remains unscathed.

L'Ombre dans L'Eau still smells timeless and is a wonderful creation. Its lasting power is also one of the best I've experienced by Diptyque. Although I'm not sure if it's full bottle-worthy for me, it's most certainly an amazing creation that was ahead of its time.

[Original submission date: 24 October 2008]