L'Ombre dans L'Eau (1983)
by Diptyque

L'Ombre dans L'Eau is very different from most of Diptyques offerings, in that it isn’t strictly a linear scent – not that linearity is a bad thing but it was a very pleasant surprise:

Top notes: Starts off with a very sharp (and masculine) citrus-green opening – it’s one of the best and most unique openings I’ve experienced in quite a while. The presence of the blackcurrant leaves create a dark, pungent and slightly sour accord. This stage lingers for at least 10 minutes.

Mid notes: This is the most challenging stage. At first, I couldn’t quite put my finger on it but (based on other reviews) realised a tomato leaf / plant accord shinning through [for those who loved this stage the best, and wished it lasted longer, the closest scent that comes to mind is Sisley’s Eau de Campagne]. The gradual emergence of the rose can be clearly detected half-way through.

Base notes: Although the green notes remain, albeit more subdued, the rose note becomes more prominent. Unfortunately, some disappointment sets in as I’m heavily reminded of both Lutens’ Sa Majesté la Rose and Montale’s Ta’if Rose. However, based on the sudden relisation that the other two were released at least 15 years later, all respect for this composition remains unscathed.

L'Ombre dans L'Eau still smells timeless and is a wonderful creation. Its lasting power is also one of the best I've experienced by Diptyque. Although I'm not sure if it's full bottle-worthy for me, it's most certainly an amazing creation that was ahead of its time.

[Original submission date: 24 October 2008]

L'Ombre dans L'Eau indeed. Well, actually I don't get much water out of this, but there are plenty of shadows. L'Ombre dans L'Eau has an arresting opening: harsh, bitter green notes jump up and kick your nose around a bit, just to make sure you're awake. These are followed almost immediately by a very clear, three dimensional rose note, which soon blends with the green to form the heart of the fragrance. What comes to mind is a rose growing in wet earth, with a distinct soil note that keeps drawing me back into the composition.

This is a dark rose scent, more masculine than unisex to my nose, and with an element of danger hovering deep in the shadowy background. It's relatively linear, like so many Diptyque scents, but that doesn't make it any less enjoyable. Sillage and projection are both outstanding, so don't overdo it!

If you're looking for a masculine rose scent and the Montale Aouds and Czech & Speake’s No. 88 are too much for you, you ought to give L'Ombre dans L'Eau a try.

The surprising opening smells pink / purple to me: It’s syrupy sweet and surrealistically rosy. I’m more shocked than impressed because I really don’t know what to make of it. Then there’s an acidic sharpness that comes immediately after spraying. It’s green and quite a bit harsh, but I’m not complaining, because I like it better than I like the uberpinkpurple rose note. I get rose, but to my nose it’s quite a cheap, fake rose note – pink… errr… purple – actually one of the most undesirable rose notes I’ve smelled in fragrances – bubble-gummy sweet. This rose note is tenacious and domineering and selfish – it won’t allow me to smell the other notes in the accord. I even lose that sharp green of the opening. My nose is not interpreting the notes of this fragrance very well, I’m afraid. I usually get along with Diptyque fragrances excellently, but this one I have to vote a thumb’s down. (Edit of 09 December 2006 review.)

Green floral pee.

I wanted to love this one, I really did, but that remains my first and last impression.

For a while I've opined that I'd like to see a perfumer's take on a local wild flower that smells pleasingly sharp from a distance, and up close... like L'Ombre dans L'Eau.

As it turns out, I really do not want to smell like that at all.

Live and learn.

As for the fragrance itself, it's complex and well made, and has very good longevity and moderate sillage.

Luscious. I want to be in the place that smells like this. It is evocative in the extreme of a verdant flowering lakeside or riverside late in the day, I feel immediately transported there. I find this scent magical and seductive. I only wish I didn't have to save it for special occasions because it always makes me feel very alive. It's hard to find and expensive, and it's my little secret in a bottle.

Haunting, definitely figurative, chewy, persuasive, mysterious, rich, shady, dewy!
The rose scent is hidden in a lush dark tangle of vegetation at the edge of a pool... But it in no way it reminds of the "warmth" of a stagnant water, with putrid scents: it is also very fresh, dynamic and sparkling! Suitable for summer lazyness as much as to reheat the cold winter heart with memories of sunny days... I think I'm feeling more and more enough brave to wear it!