Eucris (1912)
by Geo F Trumper

I was recently introduced to Eucris having been initiated into Trumpers through their signature scent GFT which I find very refreshing. However, I am now totally converted to Eucris which I find a sophisticated fragrance reminiscent of "old money" and power. It is lasting and has a ceratin ruggedness about it which gives you confidence wherever you go. This is now my staple Cologne and accompanies me on all my travels. Forget about any of the more popolular mainstream brands and head to Trumpers for this King of Colognes.

Politely and smoothly dirty, Eucris is a fragrance of balanced contrasts. The opening combines a light freshness with crisp coriander and a very dry blackcurrant. As it deepens into a wonderful open floral heart of pretty muguet and somewhat indolic jasmine, the cumin note arrives to start some messy play. Just as it does, a little minty note previously buried in the blackcurrant comes along to tidy up behind it. The base is a discussion between soft sandalwood and rough moss with a little musk to tie things together.

This is a fine fragrance which talks quietly of taste and quality beyond the brashness of youth and new wealth. I find it one of the few fragrances which can create an aura of grounded civility and style, even when dresssed smart/casual; it does not demand a suit.

I wear it for happy work experiences.

Definitely a chypre scent and abominable to my nose. Hard, acrid green and the most unpleasant scent I've yet encountered in this aromatic group. Caswell copied the formula exactly for their original Greenbriar.

None of the 8 notes present according to Trumper mentioned in Odysseusm's review on this page are identifiable to my nose except oak moss. This scent was so dreadful to my nose I ran for the washcloth and a bar of strongly scented lavender soap after I had given it a good two hour chance.

I realize I am in the minority here and that a great many men love chypre scents, but I wouldn't want to know any of them, merely in terms of having to be in the same room with them.

If you like or love chypres, you'll probably like or love this. If not, stay away.

Top – cumin, coriander, blackcurrants
Mid – jasmine, muguet
Base – sandalwood, musk, moss
(from Trumper’s site)
Trumper’s Eucris is a treasure of lovely dry peppery wood. I am confused by discussions (below) which mentions citrus and/or vetiver. Neither of these is listed as an ingredient, nor do I detect them in my sample. Eucris has a peppery opening that is very crisp and assertive. That opening amazingly persists throughout the life of the scent, a welcome and enjoyable experience. The cumin is NOT overdone; one has the pleasant impression of peppery woody spices rather than the sharp pong of cumin. I find that both the blackcurrants and florals soften and mediate the top and base, rather than impose themselves as a distinct phase. The base is particularly lovely, of warm wood with gently dry musk. The sandalwood has a mildly pleasant tang. This is a well-balanced scent, offering brisk and sensual elements together. EXCELLENT!

Well I've no idea if Ian Fleming chose Eucris for Bond or whether it was Dunhill or Floris and I confess I haven't lost sleep over it. In any case this is an old world gentleman's frag (1912) that would probably be as expensive as Jean Patou or Versailles PH if it ever were discontinued.
Great development, complex, and masculine. Get it while you can.
Cheers.

I don't understand all the negative reviews here. This isn't some dime a dozen citrus. You do have some obligatory citrus on the top, but it's soon the vetiver that drives the fragrance. Somehow they've managed to retain the best parts of vetiver oil and eliminated, or at least blurred, the bad parts. Namely the harsh acrid nature of raw, untamed vetiver oil. And yet, there's no mistaking the note the rest rally upon.

Vetiver by Guerlain is a great fragrance. But I never felt it was a definitive expression of vetiver as I knew it to be in it's pure form. Guerlain Vetiver is essentially an old school citrus built upon vetiver with a weak back. You can notice it's there. But you also notice it's not in charge either, as the name Vetiver leads you to believe.

But within Eucris, they have managed to coerce the vetiver to hold hands in harmony with the rest of the notes in the fragrance. Not relegated to being sat upon. It's front and center, but it never envelopes or drowns. A tangible tension of herbal sweetness keeps in it its place, giving it an exciting personality.

And the funny thing is, I didn't even like vetiver. Oh, I like Vetiver. But it wasn't until someone sent me some of the essential oil that I came acquainted with it in all of it's acrid and soilish glory. I couldn't imagine how someone could warm up to that. Now I do and I'd buy the t-shirt. I'll definitely buy.