Holiday scents #6 - Diptyque "Philosykos"
A first try out of the famous fig and fig-lead fragrance, my sample in EDT version. Philosykos opens with plenty of milky fig. Thankfully, despite the 'milky', 'fig', and 'green' descriptors coming to mind, this is not a 'moist' rendition, but a rather dry affair, which makes for a pleasant opening. The next stage supports the fig with a hint of coconut. There is a green aspect to the top and heart notes, but this isn't the green of eaux-de-cologne, where this effect is provided by a mossy, grassy, or aromatic component. Here, as many reviewers have already noted, the green component is of fresh young stony fruit or nuts - a much gentler and creamier take on the idea. The base adds some woods, sandalwood rather than cedar to my nose. Sandalwood certainly seems to fit more intuitively with the other notes.
Although the ensemble is no doubt interesting and pleasant, it bears too much resemblance to sun cream, smoothies, and other toiletries and comestibles for it to be fulfilling in any conventional sense. It sticks to clothes in a pleasant way, but it has not left me wishing to pursue any other fig scents for the purpose of purchase; I probably would out of general curiosity.
It is a good scent for summer if you get on with it, and accessible given its genre. However, I can't quite bring myself to give it a positive rating. Therefore, a neutral rating here, based on originality, balance, realism, development, and just general 'niceness' on the one hand; as against lack of realistic application, and poor sillage and longevity, on the other.
Although this came out two years after the "first" fig scent, L'Artisan's Premier Figuier, it is an improvement on the original.
Philosyskos is much fruitier than Premier, luscious where Premier was dry. It has a wonderful sweet tartness that is very close to the original fruit when freshly opened.
The slighly medicinal greenness of the fig leaves is present as well, so the overall impression is extremely close to the experience of actually holding and inhaling the ripe fruit itself.
Hats off to this improvement of one of the most original scents in the fragrance world - for once a gourmand that recreates one of nature's most intoxicating achievements.
This is a green, leafy, woody fig, that captures perfectly the feeling of dozing in the cool shade of a fig tree at siesta time on a hot summer's day in Greece. As it develops, it becomes more milky & fruity, but retains the woody vibe. Five hours in it's warmer, more sweet & creamy, then finally there's a faint coconut note, just as it fades to a skin scent after seven hours.
I think this scent is truly delightful, & I can't imagine anyone being offended by it.
Philosykos was my first serious fragrance ever, bought (along with Borneo) in a tiny perfume shop in Rome, and I think my hands trembled a bit when I handed over my credit card. That was back in the days when I wouldn’t have dreamed of spending more than $40 on a single bottle of perfume, of course.
But from first sniff, Philosykos was the joy of summer in a bottle for me – the vivid, green fig leaf, paired with the milky sap of the fruit itself just made me feel instantly happy. It still does. In fact, I sometimes spray it on in winter, to bring a little bit of summer back into my cold, dark house. But Philosykos truly comes alive under the heat of a summer sun, because the heat of the sun, combined with the heat of your skin, bring out all the warm, coconutty, milky, figgy, sappy, green, salty, and woody aspects of this wonderful scent.
I always think of Philosykos as being a casual sort of scent – the kind of laid-back, feel-good fragrance you wear with jeans and sneakers you could happily wear on a day out to the beach with your family, or to a cook-out with your closest friends. It has that sort of affability about it.
It's also very simple and blunt and naturalistic in that Diptyque style, so if you're looking for something edgy or full of shadows, you're not going to find them here. But sometimes you just want to get figgy with it, and Philosykos is a good 'un.
very low duration, quiet silloage..the persistent linear shadow of fig...to me, boring all the way down
If you don't like green fragrances, stay away. Smells like a genuine fig tree. This also reminds me of my aunt and mom's garden in the south. Cedar smooths things out in this giant green monster. I prefer the EDP version for better projection and longevity. 8/10
22nd April, 2015 (last edited: 23rd April, 2015)