Sandalwood Cologne (2002)
by Geo F Trumper

Much like Le Labo's Vetiver 46 "isn't vetiver", Sandalwood Cologne isn't sandalwood. Also much like Vetiver 46, this is a sweet, creamy, incensed sandalwood. Good thing I wasn't expecting a huge sandalwood. I'd be disappointed if it actually was sandalwood. I rather like this. Good cool weather wear.

The lemon-spice opening is pretty good. Lovely rich florals give this depth. The sandalwood starts off woody and tangy, and with the other ingredients it intially makes a dignified statement. But then the heavies (amber, leather, patchouli and particularly vanilla) kick in and highjack the scent. Where did the sandalwood go? This winds up creamy and luxurious, quite sweet and perfumed. Loads and loads of vanilla give this a foody sort of profile. Not my style at all. For the complete opposite – a lean, woody, austere sandalwood – try Santal by Melvita in its Soliflore line. That can be hard to find but is is worth the effort, I never grow tired of it. Whereas this Trumpers is a scrubber for me. A shame, because I love pretty much all of the ‘historical’ Trumper scents. But the modern ones don’t have the same character: perhaps in an attempt to have a unisex scent some of the masculine assertive flair has been lost.

Errrr -- where's the sandalwood? It's a very leaden, clammy leathery floral on me and just sort of lays there like a lump, not sparking or moving anywhere. If you want sandalwood there are several others that fit the bill much better. I don't like this at all and I find the rest of the Trumper range that I've tested very disappointing (with the honourable exception of Eau de Quinine).

Kaern

This scent has what I could only describe as a citrus-floral-leather-sandalwood harmony. At first they don't seem to harmonize, with the sharper notes fighting the warmer ones, but as the base comes into play, the fragrance mellows, and the whole composition just clicks. It then becomes a distinctive, sharp yet creamy fragrance. It continues to get warmer and sweeter as it dries. I'm not sure sandalwood purists will love this one, but as a good all-around scent this is yet another Trumpers that I am going to have to consider purchasing.

My nose must be a simple one. Of all the 14 ingredients I can only detect the sandalwood. It's a perfectly decent sandalwood, in no way extraordinary to my nose. This and the Caswell Massey Tricorn would be sensible choices for anyone seeking a simple sandalwood note that is warm and long-lasting.

I purchased this product blind and had high hopes for it. Unfortunately, I can really make out the Patchouli in it, which isn't a fragrance that I'm real fond of, so I'm not sure how much I'll wear it. If only the sandalwood were a little more prominent...