**For the Baldessarini made by Prestige Beauté. Not the current version.**
Underrated Gem. Perfect combination of citrus top and sweet amber.
Not cloying like some of the sweet tobacco (chergui).
At the price it sells it is a must in any collection.
Ignore the marketing - it is a unisex fragrance
An amazing scent with a blast of Orange and sweet Tobacco. Very refined and perfect for a formal event or romantic evening. I have had this in my collection since 2003 (on my 4th bootle) and its a top 10 in my collection for sure. For the price you will not be disappointed. Enjoy.
Gem of a cologne
The core of this really good sweet orange cologne is built on mandarin, fruity rose and balsamic notes, and around this a class of molecules related to rose oxide sets up a metallic ringing note that vibrates like a tuning fork way above hearing level.
These are glowing, red and orange jewel-like damascones.
Baldessarini's hi tech glass and steel character is oddly out of sync with its traditional citrus, wood and spice structure.
In this case, where damascones take the place of spice the effect feels both sci fi and passé, like a magical ruby shining in a bracelet of wood.
Baldessarini lies on a line that connects damascone-heavy Paris with the 1988 phenomenon Cool Water in which (according to Bois de Jasmin) the derivative Dynascone was used. Arriving on the cusp of the nineties, this Hugo Boss flagship masculine can be seen as fitting into the existing trend away from sillage monsters and towards a quieter decade.
But experience shows us the door to perfumery's new world order was not unlocked by damascones and their derivatives, the key was found in the other side of Cool Water's gateway structure; it was the watery and not metallic notes that best represented the movement towards a new purity.
Baldessarini saw the game was on but they backed the wrong team.
This extraordinary fantasy Cologne is from a bygone age but it is still beautiful none the less.
This review is about the original Hugo Boss version made by Prestige Beauté.
Time has been finally been kind to Baldessarini. Its metallic orange head is now in fashion, feeling as it does like a template for the penetrating top notes of the mean-eyed, Sauvage style masculines.
The hard incisive top of Baldessarini has been brought back, but this time its with a difference. The expensive and fragile damascones which gave it that internal glow have been replaced by a grapefruit derived industrial molecule; what used to be the sheen of rose crystal has now become the sting of raw chilli.
12th July, 2015 (last edited: 08th September, 2016)
A Great underrated (or better somewhat ignored) piece of fragrance, yes formal/casual, urban and dynamic. A combination of dry fresh dusty cedarwood, ambergris, aromatic herbs, patchouli, fir resin and thirsty tobacco provides a final compact really cozy aura of virility over which "somber" fruity floral patterns complete their twist of modern articulation (it could be sharp geranium, red berries, orange for sure and green apple). The Baldessarini's beginning is quite likeable under my nose, I detect fresh aromatic (somewhat mint-licorice veined) fluidy hesperides with a heady orange presence well connected with herbs and dry-mild dark spices (I suppose pepper, cardamom, cinnamon). I love the dry fruity bitterness on my skin and the ambergris-patchouli-woody tobacco chord is cozy and finally "warmly organic". The fragrance modernity abides in my opinion in its capacity to show out each individual element of its short list of expressful notes. Cedarwood (as complemented by spiciness, ambergris and "anisic" orange) is the starring note in my opinion while tobacco provides a touch of final "seasoned" roundness somewhat juxtaposed to a main woody hesperidic connection. The final trail is excellent, spicy orangy, vaguely earthy-bitter, slightly resinous and finally smoother.
Genre: Woody Oriental
Baldessarini’s top notes are a conventional, but very well executed blend of citrus and aromatics, but the heart is something more unusual. It is essentially a two part structure: a sweet, yet brisk spiced fruit accord set against a very dry, dusty cedar. The spiced fruit and cedar may derive from Féminité du Bois and Donna Karan’s Chaos, but in those scents the two elements are blended into a seamless accord, whereas in Baldessarini they do not so much blend as stand side by side, drawing the nose back and forth between them. Though it employs different ingredients, this is the same trick played by Bernard Chant in his Aramis (animalic leather vs. white flowers) and Aramis 900 (green floral vs. amber/patchouli), and it succeeds here as well, generating an olfactory tension that maintains interest until the drydown. As for the tobacco listed in the pyramid, I detect it to some degree on paper, but on my skin it seems to merge into the spiced fruit accord.
The drydown is where I enjoy Baldessarini the least. While the spiced fruit portion of the scent endures quite well, it does fade long before the cedar, which on its own smells rather colorless and thin. Anticlimactic in its development, but a very good scent nonetheless.