Christine Nagel has, in my opinion, tried to create an 'eau' that isn't mind numbingly same-as. I can mention eau de jade, eau France, rochas, du sud, savage, orlane, ad infinitum, that all claim to be the South of France in a bottle. What have we here? Yuzu, and youzz will love it when you get used to it. Something akin to the Jean Claude Ellena grapefruit opening but more masculine, a little metallic, (Coriander?) then there's a distinct lemon, or is it quince? Have you ever let a platter of quince fruit, the entire piece of fruit, not cut in any way, sit in a warm room. It's scent is quite divine. It is rivalled by the Bhudda's Hand Citrus, a real head turner. There are nuances of unusual fruit in Eau de Cartier concentree and they aren't girly, paleo princess ones. It achieved its objective, I think, to be truly unisex with a very pleasant dry down. My dog walking companion thinks its wonderful but I probably wouldn't wear it to a ladies lunch
The nice yuzu opening is quickly overpowered by violet. And more violet. And.... ok, you get it. To disclose a bias, I seriously don't like violet. The original, softer, more likeable (for me) Eau de Cartier has about as much violet as I can really get into, so I find this sharp, non-comforting, amped-up version to be quite a bit less attractive than the original. In moderation, I can wear the original. I suppose that this fragrance falls into the "green" category of warm-weather eaux. If you're into that kind of thing, and if violet is your note, you'll like this one. I've given it a fair hearing - 15 wears in my drobe count - and I'm glad to be done with it.
Violet leaf has become a much-maligned thing in perfumery for its association with the beautiful but un-modern Grey Flannel, its starring role in most of the bombastic Lempicka line, and its rampant use in countless faceless-fresh masculines over the last decade. For me, this rendition of Cartier's lightest masculine is a breath of fresh, purple-tinged air. Although it can come across as overly synthetic, especially in high heat, the opening burst of amber-sweetened violet countered by a hint of coriander is incredibly fresh and uplifting. Most surprisingly, this normally fleeting sort of accord lasts a solid hour, earning high marks from me. Afterward, the scent dries down rapidly, leaving a cedar-amber 'almost vanilla,' much like the powdery almond-like residue of Cartier's Must Pour Homme, with which EdCC shares several bodily similarities.
Though I wish this was longer-lasting I suppose that would defeat the purpose of creating a pretty, light-weight scent. I have found that spraying body and clothes at intervals keeps the show going in a brilliant way, as the musks in this one aren't strong enough to really build up and become oppressive. Nothing spectacular, but this one makes me happy.
After an evening wearing Grey Flannel on one hand and EdCC on the other on a hunch, I am convinced Cartier wanted to basically relaunch the 1976 classic with its own modern twist. Gone is the characteristic galbanum and the rich, milky sandalwood, but the remainder is like the apparition of the former after the corporeal had been discarded. It will never be as good as its precursor but I see it as a pleasant homage to the original champion of Violet.
16th June, 2014 (last edited: 17th July, 2014)
Concentree has a better lasting power and the violet note is not so loud as it is in Eau de Cartier. Elegant and classy, this fragrance is suitable for most occasions. Definetely a must have. Thumbs up!