Perfume Directory

Cuiron (2002)
by Helmut Lang

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Cuiron information

Year of Launch2002
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 314 votes)

People and companies

HouseHelmut Lang
PerfumerFrançoise Caron
SupplierQuest International
Parent CompanyHelmut Lang
Parent Company at launchProcter & Gamble > P&G Prestige Beaute

About Cuiron

A leathery musky scent, with leather running through top, middle and base notes. The amber glass bottle is replica of an antique Viennese apothecary bottle.

Cuiron fragrance notes

Reviews of Cuiron

Stardate 20170809:

Reissue version:
Soft subtle fragrance. I can see why it was a cult classic.
Spicy and suedey. No leather here.

09th August, 2017
I get NO LEATHER AT ALL. Perhaps my sample labels were switched. There is a generic citrus opening, no leather. Dry-down is moss and no leather.
15th July, 2017
I don’t know the original Cuiron, but the consensus is that the new version is very close to the original. Not 100%, but the shape and the intent are the same. Cuiron’s reissue was hotly awaited but following the curse-of-threes in perfume releases it was somewhat overshadowed by its siblings Helmut Lang EDP and EDC.

The timing of the reissue was awkward. As a 2014 version of a 2002 perfume, it’s neither new nor vintage, so it arrives with two strikes against it. One, it’s a reformulation and, two, even if the restoration is flawless, it’s not old enough to be retro, just out of fashion.

I imagine that even when it was first released Cuiron was neither fish nor fowl. Ostensibly leather but actually more woody than anything else. Largely synthetic but not unapologetically so like many other millennial niche perfumes (eg. Comme des Garçons, l’Artisan Parfumeurs, Etat Libre d’Orange). Minimal but a little fussy. From the perspective of 2014 the neither/nor bit is magnified, giving Cuiron a house-of-mirrors quality that makes it seem endlessly referential.

To wit: Cuiron shares the hissy, gasoline topnotes of a few power-masculines that preceded it, namely Hermès Bel Ami and Dior Fahrenheit. Even Chanel Antaeus for that matter. It manages to find the neutral territory between the plush of Knize Ten and the starkness of ELDO Rien. Cuiron’s synth-woodiness narrowly misses the over-reliance on Iso-E Super that many of the era fell prey to, yet it hints at the freeze-dried hollowness of the norlimbanol beasts that would follow. Cuiron’s shiny, metallic topnotes are oddly reminiscent of Guerlain Coriolan, linking it to the generation of lost masculines like Paco Rabanne Ténéré, Givenchy Insensé and Jacomo Anthracite. It’s freaky how many other perfumes Cuiron brings to mind.

It’s arguable that Cuiron lacks individuality or identity. It’s not as specific as some other leather perfumes but it fits the straightforwardness of the Lang aesthetic. For those attuned to the quiet detail of the brand’s signature minimalism Cuiron was probably fairly loud but it was less bombastic than the power-fragrances and brassy fougères that preceded it.

The reissued Cuiron doesn’t suffer from reformulation, but expectation gets the better of it. The original edition gathered a cult following, especially after it was discontinued. In 2002 Cuiron would have been the star of a rising niche wave. In 2014 Cuiron faced more competition and a more informed perfume consumer. It will be interesting to see how Cuiron survives in this new setting.

from scenthurdle.com
20th June, 2016
I bought the reformulation recently and am not familiar with vintage. This certainly is a beautiful leather for discerning noses. The quality is fantastic. Great for work. Projection is on the soft side so it will be lost in a lot of other environments.
22nd March, 2016
Owned a bottle back in 2004....Stunning fragrance...gorgeous leather......Came out of the coach and horses and walked over the road and the only time this has ever happened,a lady on her own said" oh my....wow what have you got on that smells so good" im para phrasing from memory but im not exagerrating!...
Lush,glorious scent,.(sorry not to good on notes)but the leather was simply stunning....Wish id brought 5 bottles had i known it was no longer being made..
26th July, 2015
This review is for the reissue.

The opening is light, transparent, only vaguely citrussy with perhaps some aldehydes. To begin with, the leather is on the "faux" side, conjuring the smell of a new car with vinyl seats, & a cheap lemon-scented air freshener dangling from the rear view mirror. Some people love the smell of a new car; l personally hate it. After fifteen minutes or so, it all smooths out into a more realistic but soft, subtle, suede-like leather, with a faint touch of incense. After four hours, it's faded to a rather clean & nondescript base, & overall it lasts eight or nine hours before disappearing.
For me the middle phase of this one is a fairly acceptable rendition of leather, but it's too cold & distant, lacking any kind of warmth or charm. lt's also one-dimensional & rather dull. l prefer my leathers far more complex & animalic than this, but if you shy away from anything too dirty or complicated, this could be just the leather for you!
31st March, 2015

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