Green, earthy, gentle opening of vetiver and (light) oak moss, with a delicate floral side (iris) and a vibrant accord of vanillin, ginger, cinnamon. A pleasant sprinkle of citrus, sweet and graceful like neroli or bergamot – nothing pungent or too fresh. Soft, mellow aromatic woods dusted with cocoa beans, not as bold as in Borneo, more a sweet/powdery touch. A slight rubbery feel, I guess it's the dryness of guaiac and vetiver. Some metallic feel but perhaps it's due to vetiver as well, since sometimes it has it a bit (please appreciate the efforts I make for not naming any aromachem). A nice and peculiar scent, quite elegant, more delicate and "toned down" than most of other classic Lutens' scents but still with his signature oriental multifaceted personality. As minutes pass the iris/musks/woody accord emerges and defines better, quite soft and almost creamy on a dry, pungent, dusty and quite dark base. Solid, shady but also safely "unoffensive" and simple, almost a bit dull – even if pleasant, nice and elegant. The drydown is nice as well, dusty, cozy, lively. If you like this "concept", to me is developed far better in Parfum d'Empire's Equistrius – however here you feel more "distance" between the lightness of iris and the base, while in Equistrius it is all more blended together (and well, there's lots more). Close projection but persistence is good. It does not even compare to the best scents by Lutens, but neither to the worst ones – it's nice, not worth the full price, but grab it if you find a bargain.
A soft, powdery, off-the-wall, tangentially-vetiverish scent. The vetiver, although lightly-applied, is rubbery and slightly bitter; I think the paired gaiac wood note plays a major part in emphasising this facet. The counterfoil to that more challenging accord is a sweet powdery base, which seems to remain stronger longer. Although entitled 'vetiver' it is far from a shoo-in for the vetiver lover. Overall it sits somewhere between Bvlgari Black and Fat Electrician in scent but there seems to be more going on than in either. Whilst sweet it is (thankfully) nowhere near as syrupy as some of the more popular Lutens confections. Longevity is good: 10 hours from 8 sprays. Unisex.
This is a vetiver that anyone could sink their teeth into, even for those, like myself, who struggle with a strong presence of that note.
There is a smooth, distinct presence of vetiver, but it acts as subtle base for sharp wood and sweet amber to play off of. In fact, I find two distinct phases of vetiver - the first is slightly smoky and green, intertwined with a sharp guaic note. The second is a wood based sweet amber oriental, with vetiver still present, but clearly in the backdrop. There is a lovely powdery iris sprinkled over a cocoa to form an impression of dark, bitter chocolate, but I don't find this obvious at all, more an impression.
I find this imminently wearable, and I love the use of interesting notes in a rather tried and true formula. Oriental it is, but with a twist. It manages to stay somewhat fresh throughout, even with the sweet and powdery base.
Very well done, albeit possibly not the truest vetiver for vetiver lovers. But for me, it is perfect!
Very interesting concept but a tad too sweet to my taste when played on skin. Vetiver and other woody elements laying on an ambery oriental base. Actually pretty nice but no match for, say, Vetiver Tonka or Fat Electrician.
Mmmm, a rich oriental vetiver, mossy, resinous, dense, complex and almost gourmand with its touch of dark chocolate. The central note of vetiver poses a rooty and typical (from vetiver) woodsy mould over the general work. Seasoned dark-brown woods, leather, tarry notes, balsams and labdanum compose this intriguing scent. The resinous moss-musk-labdanum-amber accord reminds me the typical Mazzolari's mossy and syrupy density. The beginning is a bit rough with the performance of some spices, citrus, herbs and tar but the smell tends progressively to morph in a sort of smooth and warm mossy vetiver with hints of dry flowers and seasoned (and slightly smoky) woods coloured by hints of amber. The final outcome is tasty and almost brewing with its cocktail of resinous labdanum, balsams and musks. The almost edible thick and gummy temperament is enhanced by the chord of guaiac woods and chocolate that is so attractive for us. The fragrance itself evolves as a mysterious and multifaceted dark juice from the forest. One of the best from Lutens in my opinion.