Vétiver Extraordinaire (2002)
by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I'm not a fan of musty earthy vetiver. That's why Guerlain Vetiver gets no love from me. But vetiver of the green and grassy variety? That's a different story altogether - I love the stuff! And I'm glad Ropion's take leans closer to this type.

VETIVER EXTRAORDINAIRE does seem a little underwhelming at first, nothing extraordinary as the name suggests. But I've come to realise this was never meant to be another Carnal Flower. Rather it feels like a modern update of the gentlemanly scent, eschewing the traditional 70s-style citrus in favor of the earthly, though not quite earthy, vetiver. A nod to greater environmental awareness in the 21st century perhaps? Presumptious at best. But juxtaposed against the occasional and fleeting 'lighter fluid' accord, the irony of it all is nothing short of brilliant.

May '09:

Vetiver Ordinaire, perhaps?

I really wish I could feel some enthusiasm for this, but I just can't. It smells so very plain. It's a well balanced vetiver note pretending to be a complete fragrance, and the soon-vanishing pepper top note does nothing to relieve the monotony. After the first thirty seconds, this is all about vetiver, to the point where I can't help wondering if this is mostly just vetiver essential oil diluted in alcohol.

Now, don't get me wrong. Unlike some essential oils, like petigrain or nutmeg, vetiver essential oil makes pleasant wearing as a fragrance. However, I really expect more from a fragrance sold at Frederic Malle prices.

To be fair, it does last a while - about fourteen hours through its epic non-development - and its sillage is adequate.

If this is a masterpiece, it owes nothing to Malle and Ropion and everything to Chrysopogon Zizanioides.

September '09:

After a summer of wearing this semi-regularly, my opinion has gone a complete 180 since I first tried it and wrote the above.

While Vetiver Extraordinaire is minimalist, the grassy vetiver note is framed in a delightful and refreshing way. Pepper in the top notes and that persistent, peculiar "airy" note that gives the vetiver a nice lift and makes it quite refreshing.

While I generally prefer smoky, earthy vetivers this vetiver is still potent and long lasting despite being fresh and grassy. It's great in warm weather, and if I lived in a hot climate I'd own it for sure.

At first it simply smells like the best vetiver essential oil in the world. Then you start to notice the other facets, such as ozone, pepper, a bit of citrus and a musky base. It's wonderfully simple and complex at the same time. Although VE is a little linear, it does develop nicely throughout the day, only it's hard to notice because it always retains the same character throughout. To me this is how a healthy man should smell - like nature but even better (due to a flawless choice and blending of synthetic ingredients with natural vetiver essential oil). If you've ever walked through a mossy forest in the summer, you'll recognize the same vibe in this only more refined and wearable than the smell of a forest.

Sexy, clean, green - I agree with Anthony that VE is part of my top 5 fragrances of all time.

Edit: I overdosed on this the other day and I got this crazy lighter fluid thing everyone else has been talking about. I still love VE, as I actually like the smell of lighter fluid, petroleum (and all those other flammable liquids) but I have to admit that VE loses points because of it, and is therefore no longer one my absolute faves.

9.25/10

Its brilliant and I am not surprised of all the positive reviews. I am more surprised to see any negative or even neutral ratings on this because it is that likeable and easily accessible.

To my mind there are four major ingredients to this scent: Vetiver, myrrh, sandalwood and musk.

VE is rich and smooth with perfect balance. Oily, smoky, medicinal and resinous-spicy. Very natural smelling with soft and warm edge.

Easy-to-wear masculine juice that is extremely pleasant and luxurious.

This is what niche fragrances are all about. Expensive but well worth it.

Should probably last a bit longer, to be honest. It is fading fairly fast although the lasting power is not exactly a total disaster.

By far and away the best Vetiver there is. There is a lot of the stuff in this potion. Mind you that is not too difficult as Vetiver oil is a relatively cheap ingredient, its acrid nature has been softened just enough by the citrus and sandalwood. Very green - nice.

Notes: Bergamot, Bigarade Orange, Pink pepper, Nutmeg, Floralozone, Haïtain vetyver, Sandalwood, cedarwood, Oak moss, Myrrh, Cashmeran, Musketone, Tonalide

If there is a modern vetiver which is worthy of ranking alongside the old world vetiver classics, Vetiver Extraordinaire (VE) is it. Dominique Ropion's haitian vetiver overdosed masterwork (25% concentration) is a sleek and smooth vetiver extravaganza married to quality modern synthetics to conjure what is probably the leading vetiver fragrance out there. The bitter bigarade top note lasts for mere seconds before VE gets down to business...the green, lemony, slightly earthy vetiver digs itself out of the composition and is fleshed out with a sprinkling of nutmeg and pepper resulting in a mineral earthy vetiver accord. But it doesn't stop there. Ropion has integrated an ozonic note (florazone) which operates underneath this accord to lend it an airy distant ozone aura which feels like smelling vetiver roots in space. Florazone gives the mineral vetiver accord an ozonic-floral lift without dominating the composition. One caveat: if for whatever reason the ozone note dominates on your skin, it may spoil infect the vetiver accord with lighter-fluid or a hot-plastic note. The woody base, composed of a complex proprietary Ropion wood accord, provides a comfortable landing pad for the searing yet well controlled vetiver note. Cashmeran provides diffusiveness to the vetiver note and is thankfully not overdosed.

VE isn't the most dynamic vetiver fragrance, nor is it the most 'vetivery'. What it is though is an exhibition in providing a perfect balance of a dominant vetiver note with a nose's own interpretation of vetiver art. It is a blast from the past with a nod to the future. It is evident yet never overbearing. I don't understand the appeal of heavy handed vetiver fragrances with a crassly handled dumplings of Whole Foods(r) vetiver oil...I certainly don't have any interest in smelling like the Swamp Thing. I do however have an interest in smelling like a presentable, well groomed man with a whiff of outdoorsy freshness and a tinge of modern. Pick a vetiver which is right for you.

Other mineral vetivers: Creed Vetiver '48, Loccitane Vetiver

Rating: 9.0/10.0