Extraordinarily disappointed with this vetiver. Many of the Malle's I've tried seem to possess these unpalatable melange of notes, with one (or two, or three, or four...) notes always "off" and this one is no exception.
No need to really describe transitions as others have already done so, and it's mostly vetiver, but I find either the pink pepper (which I usually like), cloves, or musk in complete disharmony with its eponymous note. It comes across as anything but refreshing, almost rancidly sour, in fact, like smelling something that's turned...
Every time I wear this one I hope to find something I missed or to have it open up differently, but each time I'm left with the same reaction.
01st April, 2015 (last edited: 02nd April, 2015)
The refreshing opening is realistic orange with vetiver. Very nice. As the pepper and cloves enter into the picture the overall effect makes the fragrance greener. The sandalwood, cedar, oakmoss, incense and musk seem to apportion themselves without taking over completely making the wood more tangy than heavy. This is easily one of the best vetivers. For the price Guerlain vetiver is a better overall deal but if you can afford it then I recommend this vetiver.
Every time I read reviews, no matter how many are negative or ambivalent, I order samples hoping to experience the positive.
Not this time.
I get a vicious blast of clove, so much so my throat goes numb. This takes an hour to disappear, finally allowing the neutral green vetiver to come through. This smells quite similar to Guerlain's Vetiver, but slightly less soapy. No bitter green herbal goodness here. This fades to become a sad, dumpy musk over the next few hours. I can still smell the musk after 12 hours but only when I bring my wrist up to my nose.
Unless I am hot, the sillage is minimal, i.e. right next to the skin.
If I had paid even a quarter of the 50ml price, I would be annoyed at this timid, one dimensional bottle of chicanery.
Ropion's not pulling any punches here! Vétiver Extraordinaire arrives all wickedly harsh and green, like a big, herbaceous uppercut to the jaw. Then, just as it starts looking too aggressively bitter to wear, the fragrance begins to transform. A bit of incense starts to peek through, along with some woods and a very subtle sweet note that I can't quite pin down. It's arresting and raw, and you have to LOVE vetiver to wear it, but Vétiver Extraordinaire is a very serious, remarkably deep, and beautifully composed fragrance. This s tands with Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's Route du Vétiver, Chanel’s Sycomore, and Givenchy Vetyver as one of the finest vetiver scents I know.
Ok, first my reference Vetiver is Guerlain Vetiver, which makes it evident that i like more of the light, airy type Vetiver frags rather than the dark, heavy and rooty ones.
Malle's Vetiver tends more towards Guerlain Vetiver with some amount of citrusy, peppery opening but not as strong the Guerlain, leads to a woody, dry middle which then fades to a comfortable resinous and powery vertiverish dry down.
The vetiver is certainly the leading man of the show and can be detected and the whole composition is quite discreet and long lasting (10+hours). Just when one thinks it's gone, a little body heat or a whiff of breeze will bring it alive and remind one that its still there.
Certainly a very interesting take on vetiver and very soothing and comforting...certainly a FB worthy for those who like airier and lighter treatments of vetiver.