Citrus Paradisi (2000)
by Czech & Speake

When I first tried this, I thought it would be something I'd like and be perfect for a hot day. The bracing, odd note in the beginning never left and it had a feel to it not far removed from clothes left in the washing machine too long before drying them. The grapefruit isn't fresh at all like some I've encountered but rather in the school of "a few days past its prime."

This has a very, very sour and bitter grapefruit and yuzu like opening with a touch of spice. It was harsh at first but became pleasant. SMooths into a nicer peppery spice and then into an herbaceous zest. Very refreshing. Much more so than other grapefruits I've encountered like Hamptons, Be Delicious and Zeste Pamplemouse Mandarin. Very unique.

Another great one from C&S! The grapefruit is strong, fresh and nicely modulated by the rosemary. The civet note is the same as in C&S Cuba - unmistakeably present, but of a transparent dirtiness that is much easier to handle than your typical old-fashioned French dirtbomb. In no way fecal, it comes across as light, sensual body odor, rather than as "it's cruelly hot and I haven't washed myself in two weeks." The drydown is perhaps less interesting than Cuba's but it is just as good. The coriander holds things together until the oakmoss (CP still contains the genuine article) comes forth for an extremely pleasant finale, all the while the grapefruit marvelously keeps lingering on. In sum, this is a perfectly crafted gentlemen's summer fragrance that towers above the boredom and artificiality of most modern fresh colognes while competently modernizing the traditional male approach to citrus.

I really liked Citrus Paradisi on the test strip, it seemed like a great citrusy/spicy/warm and just a tad animalic composition. On skin, however, it's too much grapefruit. Way too much grapefruit. Grapefruit must be my least favourite citrus note, it always just smells synthetically "clean" and "fresh". It's so persistent and aggressive too - I'd rather take the bitterness of lemon or orange peel any day. On the test strip, this seemed like a classy classic citrus cologne, on skin it seems blatantly modern, modern as in "I'm a Man and I'm so Fresh I only smell of Shower Gel and Deodorant!" Yes, there's a little bit of civet underneath but that doesn't really work with the grapefruit blast. The composition seems hollow and unbalanced, like it has no heart notes (where are the herbs?), only a huge top balanced on a tiny base, and the contrast between cool/aquatic grapefruit and warm/animalic basenotes is just disgusting. It's hot today but I don't find it refreshing in the least, only nauseating. You can probably find something very similar much cheaper, just go for the highest concentration of grapefruit. But I'd rather you didn't, in case I have to stand next to you in an elevator...

This may be "best in class" for the type of fragrance it is - like most Czech and Speake formulas are. Very fresh citrus opening that is balanced by animalic musk + civet that lets you know this is not another innocent eau de citrus. It is very French like the older Chanels and Guerlains that have body odor notes to give the freshness of the citrus a contrasting backdrop. It has character - it is real. I also like the dry coriander note that forms most of the very dry base along with the citrus that lasts throughout. The coriander adds a woody dryness that is a contemporary feel against the grapefruit opening that's a little like YSL Live Jazz but instead of the mint in L. Jazz you have the slightly odorous musk. This has to be one of the best citrus scents around. It is fresh, crisp, dry and woody, while it feels new and old at the same time. Highly recommended!

I totally agree to Thomas and just want to add that a) one should never use this smell when tasting wine or having an opulent diner and b) thank goodness it lasts not too long, at least not on my skin.