Citrus Paradisi (2000)
by Czech & Speake

To me, this is citrus heaven and oh, how aptly titled, Citrus paradisi. it's juicy, sumptous, effervescent lemon in its opening to a greener mids and a powderty soft, cloudy base. im not sure how this could possibly repel people. it's an citrusy elixir, straight from heaven.

Simply put, this stuff is marvelous.

Grapefruit is a challenging note in perfumery, since along with its irresistibly bracing tartness comes a vaguely sulfurous, unclean undertone that can recall stale sweat or urine. Successful grapefruit scents like Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune typically get around the fruit’s fetid aspect by pairing grapefruit with bright, crisp floral notes. Citrus Paradisi takes just the opposite approach and embraces the sulfurous, dirty side of grapefruit, reinforcing the animalic tang with conspicuous doses of cumin and civet. The result is a paradoxically fresh/animalic accord that has parallels in scents like Eau d’Hermès, Déclaration, and Cologne Bigarade, but with grapefruit in place of orange.

The animalic citrus accord is both balanced and bolstered by an astringent clary sage note and a touch of black pepper, all of which rest upon a very dry foundation of moss and woods. The animalic edge and an utter lack of sweetness may render Citrus Paradisi too challenging or prickly for some noses, but for those who are open to a crisp citrus that is neither “clean” nor especially comforting, this will be an enticing fragrance.

This transcends any ideas of a bright happy summery citrus based scent -- this is a deep, serious take on the genre, which is utterly sexy and completely brilliant. I know of EDP's that fade quicker than this and the sillage is wondrous. John Stephen is a genius and shows what is achievable in perfumery with a few basic notes.

I'm a citrus lover.
And I generally like classy and aloof scents.
And don't mind earth or dirt.

This is a huge dissapointment for me.

If you like dried up grapefruit peel, with no sense of juiciness of the fruit, and very little refreshment, layered with a very common-smelling and bitter early-80's masculine scent. This is for you.

I was expecting a refreshing grapefruit note with something dirty and earthy in the base. Instead I got bitter, dried up peels, and a very un-dirty, rather formal, and rather stern base that I have smelled before in late 70's and early 80's masculine scents.

Both thumbs down.

Wish I liked it. My skin made sure I really didn't. Obviously a clever and very well made fragrance, but not one I could ever really wear. If you like it on a blotter, as I did, please try this on your skin before purchasing a bottle.

Wee Paradisi :(.

nice clean citrus - decent longevity