Reviews of Citrus Paradisi (2000)
by Czech & Speake

To me, this is citrus heaven and oh, how aptly titled, Citrus paradisi. it's juicy, sumptous, effervescent lemon in its opening to a greener mids and a powderty soft, cloudy base. im not sure how this could possibly repel people. it's an citrusy elixir, straight from heaven.

Simply put, this stuff is marvelous.

Grapefruit is a challenging note in perfumery, since along with its irresistibly bracing tartness comes a vaguely sulfurous, unclean undertone that can recall stale sweat or urine. Successful grapefruit scents like Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune typically get around the fruit’s fetid aspect by pairing grapefruit with bright, crisp floral notes. Citrus Paradisi takes just the opposite approach and embraces the sulfurous, dirty side of grapefruit, reinforcing the animalic tang with conspicuous doses of cumin and civet. The result is a paradoxically fresh/animalic accord that has parallels in scents like Eau d’Hermès, Déclaration, and Cologne Bigarade, but with grapefruit in place of orange.

The animalic citrus accord is both balanced and bolstered by an astringent clary sage note and a touch of black pepper, all of which rest upon a very dry foundation of moss and woods. The animalic edge and an utter lack of sweetness may render Citrus Paradisi too challenging or prickly for some noses, but for those who are open to a crisp citrus that is neither “clean” nor especially comforting, this will be an enticing fragrance.

This transcends any ideas of a bright happy summery citrus based scent -- this is a deep, serious take on the genre, which is utterly sexy and completely brilliant. I know of EDP's that fade quicker than this and the sillage is wondrous. John Stephen is a genius and shows what is achievable in perfumery with a few basic notes.

I'm a citrus lover.
And I generally like classy and aloof scents.
And don't mind earth or dirt.

This is a huge dissapointment for me.

If you like dried up grapefruit peel, with no sense of juiciness of the fruit, and very little refreshment, layered with a very common-smelling and bitter early-80's masculine scent. This is for you.

I was expecting a refreshing grapefruit note with something dirty and earthy in the base. Instead I got bitter, dried up peels, and a very un-dirty, rather formal, and rather stern base that I have smelled before in late 70's and early 80's masculine scents.

Both thumbs down.

Wish I liked it. My skin made sure I really didn't. Obviously a clever and very well made fragrance, but not one I could ever really wear. If you like it on a blotter, as I did, please try this on your skin before purchasing a bottle.

Wee Paradisi :(.

nice clean citrus - decent longevity

I have to agree that there are similarities between this and Balle de Match. Personally, I feel that Balle de Match is the better of the two, with more depth and complexity. Besides this observation, Citrus Paradisi is still quite a nice offering. However, there is something in the composition that isn’t quite right, although it’s probably the civet in the base notes.

Not bad at all!

A sharp grapefruit opening, about one minute of peace and calm, then a civet note kicks in to make it more surly or intimidating than most grapefruits frags. Best comment? It's better made than Memorie d'Homme by Ricci. Worst comment? It's not intimidating, just mildly annoying. Pass.

Sigh...quite, quite awful on me. The civet stays too dominant and tips over into the smell of urine. I guess it could work if your skin type brings out more of the sweet/tartness of the scent.

boring lemon which smells like a cat for me or something lemony to cleaning bathrooms, longevity is below avg., not so good as cuba, dark rose and my fave no.88 from C&S

This, in-my-opinion, is the best of the samples that I received from the highly respectable Czech & Speake. I agree with jathans in regards to the opening. At first when I smelled this sample I thought this wasn't my "cup of tea" as the opening reminds me of one of those classic barber shop scents with a hint of citrus. However, once I forgot I had it on, my nose was receiving one of the most pleasant aromas and it turned out to be Citrus Paradisi's dry down which involves one of my favorite notes, Oakmoss. For the drydown alone, I am giving it a Thumbs Up. But, I do not know if I would want to wait out the opening as I am the type of guy who prefers to enjoy the whole composition of a fragrance!

I prefer my citrus frags to be clean and fresh, this carried a bit more funk than I'm comfy with in the opening. It gets better as it evolves but I can't get over the dirt...

The opening here instantly transported me to my great grandmother's house 35 years ago. This is a potent, spicy, dirty grapefruit scent. Different than anything I have tried to date and certainly interesting. I like how the_good_life characterizes Citrus Paradisi as having a "transparent dirtiness". That captures my feelings as well. A high quality scent, but one I don't expect to buy for myself.

Not an especially pleasant grapefruit opening. When it thankfully fades, there just isn't a whole lot left. Very weak bottom. Weak sillage, no longevity. Not bad, but my least favorite choice from Czech & Speake. I agree with Caltha, huge (not great) top, no heart, tiny base. Not representative of the quality of the house's other fragrances, in my opinion.

Not the most exiting fragrance on this planet but in its own category quite entertaining.

I actually like this one quite a bit. It is Cologne-like, traditional and rather ordinary but it has a certain appeal: It is rich, natural, refreshing and I just love how versatile this scent is plus how exquisitely it reacts to the skin temperatures. Delightful on a hot summer day or if you prefer, on a cold and dark winters day when you need to be reminded that it will not last forever….

Fairly luscious and juicy (tart, bitter) grapefruit note lingers all the way through this fragrance which btw; lasts a long time on me.
The grapefruit is blended with that common mixture of oak moss and herbs, and in colour wise it would be easy to say this is a mossy green scent with thin yellow stripes to it.

In addition to the pyramid shown at Basenotes, I definitely smell a small hint of patchouli in this scent, too.

Those animal ingredients don’t stand out in a slightest; this is no animalic scent by any means.
No, those notes are just gently and masterfully blended in giving this one a rich, classy character with nice amount of depth and layers. And for this matter we know civet and ambergris are one of the best tools available.


It’s a good scent, but I never would pay 100euros a bottle of this myself, to be honest.

Thumb up, but it really is hanging by a hair.

Notes:
Top: Grapefruit
Heart: Coriander, Pepper
Base: Oakmoss, Patchouli

Citrus Paradisi (CP) is a fresh grapefruit-based citrus fragrance from bathroom kings Czech & Speake. A burst of citrusy, tart and slightly sour grapefruit note is the first impression. The grapefruit note, being the showcase, is not too acidic/cat-peelike or sharp (see Guerlains Pamplelune), nor is it void of its distinctive sharp smell. From this zesty opening CP slowly morphs into a citrus-spicy fragrance. The peppery heart infuses the grapefruit note with the bite of pepper and the warmth of coriander and hints of animalic civet. From here onwards only bite-size tart after effects of the grapefruit opening remain, and they last all the way into the dry-mossy drydown of oakmoss which almost exhibits none of its light sweetness. Overall CP remains very dry, spicy and tart. A grapefruit frag made for Jackie from The Darkness.

Comparisons to other grapefruit fragrances: CPs grapefruit note is more bearable than the one-tone ph-7 monster grapefruit in Pamplelune. CP comes closest in character to PdNs Balle de Match, both fragrances rendering a spicy-sweet grapefruit vista via liberal use of spices in the heart notes. BdM is a more complex composition with other complementing notes such as juniper berries and a good use of incense turning the composition into a fuller, softer mixture. CP by comparisons comes off as starker and drier, especially with the mossy base. Compared to Creeds Zeste Mandarine, CPs grapefruit note is more tart and less conjoined to the lemon note, and is void of the soft florals that provide the Creed its pleasant backend. CP is the Serious Sam of the bunch.

As my commentary above indicates, CP is a quality grapefruit fragrance but it does face good competition. To me Balle de Match is a similar (and much cheaper!) but better composition, and some may find CP to be a bit too dry for their liking. Eitherways, its good to have such a wide variety of grapefruit-based fragrances in the market .. God knows America needs more grapefruit (in any form!) to fend off the pending obesity epidemic ..

Rating: 8.00/10.0

Urgh, I get a dried cat pee smell.

I see a polarization of responses to this scent. For me, it is a lovely light grapefruit scent, with a bit of distinctive depth. The grapefruit is very natural-smelling – quite delicious – and it has amazing longevity for a citrus note. There are hints of a dusky green (clary sage) and peppery-woody spice (coriander). Then, indolic and animalic notes appear, courtesy of the civet and ambergris. These somewhat rare items move the scent out of a ‘linear’ shape and into something more ‘rounded’ and complex. Grapefruit reappears, amazingly, as the scent settles into a gently mossy drydown. I don’t find this to be a classic EDC sort of scent. Both the straight-forward focus on grapefruit and the brownish depth components move it into a distinct category. Perhaps Dior’s Eau Sauvage is the closest analogue in style.

This is another fascinating series of olfactory episodes, courtesy of the alchemists from Jermyn Street. The opening was very unpleasant, but only for the briefest of periods. I detected a urine type edge in the first few moments, but thankfully this disappeared quite quickly. The herbal middle notes of Coriander and Sage never dominate each other, and combine wonderfully with the Grapefruit residue in the top notes. The dry down is baked, dry,and fresh, but in a very understated way. This is a nicely balanced medley of notes, and it has an originality that should be applauded.

Oh my...
As fresh as anything can be. If that's the by Thomas described toilet cleaning agent smell - I'm fine with that!

Very luxury and powerful citrus notes without being to sharp. In the lower level I find something like leather or tabac. It brings the seriousity and substance for wearing it in the office. Unique. Absolutely!

I have two bottles of that wonderful stuff. Said enough...

First time I tried this I thought "lemons and pot.......lemons and pot........I should love this.......lemons and pot......I should really love this---WHY DON'T I LIKE THIS???" 2nd try a week later and it hit me: Noxzema and horsesh*t. THAT'S why I don't like this.

Generally speaking, I am a devoted fan of citrus. My mediterranean complexion seems to provide an efficacious canvas upon which it will - more often than not - cheerfully blossom.
Therefore, I have ample scents in my wardrobe with accords that run the gamut from Tunisian bergamot to blood orange, zesty lime and Sicilian lemon to piquant kumquat. But recently I came across a citrus that broke the "clean and fresh" citrus mould.
Citrus Paradisi, the extraordinary eau de toilette released by Czech & Speake of London, is a welcome deviation from the citrus norm. It is both modern and traditional in style. Its opening accords are vibrant and lush, brimming with shimmering grapefruit; but almost instantly one is lured down into the dusky heart of this fragrance where rich patchouli lurks alongside odiferous oak moss. There is a lively shot of black pepper beneath which lends a prickling warmth to the anatomy of this scent. Citrus Paradisi manages to rouse the senses with its shrill, vivacious grapefruit; but also murmurs in one's ear with hushed, tranquil tones.
It is a 'mature' citrus: one that is contemporary for today, without losing a loyalty and sensitivity to yesterday. Often overlooked, but undeniably one of the best of its class.

When I first tried this, I thought it would be something I'd like and be perfect for a hot day. The bracing, odd note in the beginning never left and it had a feel to it not far removed from clothes left in the washing machine too long before drying them. The grapefruit isn't fresh at all like some I've encountered but rather in the school of "a few days past its prime."

This has a very, very sour and bitter grapefruit and yuzu like opening with a touch of spice. It was harsh at first but became pleasant. SMooths into a nicer peppery spice and then into an herbaceous zest. Very refreshing. Much more so than other grapefruits I've encountered like Hamptons, Be Delicious and Zeste Pamplemouse Mandarin. Very unique.

Another great one from C&S! The grapefruit is strong, fresh and nicely modulated by the rosemary. The civet note is the same as in C&S Cuba - unmistakeably present, but of a transparent dirtiness that is much easier to handle than your typical old-fashioned French dirtbomb. In no way fecal, it comes across as light, sensual body odor, rather than as "it's cruelly hot and I haven't washed myself in two weeks." The drydown is perhaps less interesting than Cuba's but it is just as good. The coriander holds things together until the oakmoss (CP still contains the genuine article) comes forth for an extremely pleasant finale, all the while the grapefruit marvelously keeps lingering on. In sum, this is a perfectly crafted gentlemen's summer fragrance that towers above the boredom and artificiality of most modern fresh colognes while competently modernizing the traditional male approach to citrus.

I really liked Citrus Paradisi on the test strip, it seemed like a great citrusy/spicy/warm and just a tad animalic composition. On skin, however, it's too much grapefruit. Way too much grapefruit. Grapefruit must be my least favourite citrus note, it always just smells synthetically "clean" and "fresh". It's so persistent and aggressive too - I'd rather take the bitterness of lemon or orange peel any day. On the test strip, this seemed like a classy classic citrus cologne, on skin it seems blatantly modern, modern as in "I'm a Man and I'm so Fresh I only smell of Shower Gel and Deodorant!" Yes, there's a little bit of civet underneath but that doesn't really work with the grapefruit blast. The composition seems hollow and unbalanced, like it has no heart notes (where are the herbs?), only a huge top balanced on a tiny base, and the contrast between cool/aquatic grapefruit and warm/animalic basenotes is just disgusting. It's hot today but I don't find it refreshing in the least, only nauseating. You can probably find something very similar much cheaper, just go for the highest concentration of grapefruit. But I'd rather you didn't, in case I have to stand next to you in an elevator...

This may be "best in class" for the type of fragrance it is - like most Czech and Speake formulas are. Very fresh citrus opening that is balanced by animalic musk + civet that lets you know this is not another innocent eau de citrus. It is very French like the older Chanels and Guerlains that have body odor notes to give the freshness of the citrus a contrasting backdrop. It has character - it is real. I also like the dry coriander note that forms most of the very dry base along with the citrus that lasts throughout. The coriander adds a woody dryness that is a contemporary feel against the grapefruit opening that's a little like YSL Live Jazz but instead of the mint in L. Jazz you have the slightly odorous musk. This has to be one of the best citrus scents around. It is fresh, crisp, dry and woody, while it feels new and old at the same time. Highly recommended!

I totally agree to Thomas and just want to add that a) one should never use this smell when tasting wine or having an opulent diner and b) thank goodness it lasts not too long, at least not on my skin.

This very zesty fragrance with a strong citrus top from Californian grapefruit is very dependent on the context and very ambivalent: in office is smells like a cleaning agent for toilets. But in summer holidays at the sea or on very hot days in the city it is a wonderful casual fragrance. Than you feel like a figure in the bright pictures of swimming pools by David Hockney.