Neroli (1981)
by Czech & Speake

Neroli and Orange flower that is simple but really nice. It reminds me of the soaps and fragrances you have in your room in a expensive hotel. Worn in the Spring when it takes to the air and surrounds you not long after you have applied it is enchanting.

4th December, 2011.

Bitter fresh herbal neroli. Not sweet. Think as English version of opening notes of Guerlain Vetiver. Do not expect longevity of powerhouse.
This bitter note gives somewhat repulsive, human-hating impression to me.
Maybe what would Estella of Great Expectations would wear.

22nd November, 2011.

One of those fragrances that does exactly what it says on the bottle. The opening is a bit overwhelming and a blast of orange flowers and neroli. Settles down after a bit and stays pretty linear in its course and slowly fades away. Longevity is great as it lasts 10+ hours on me and is one of the better ones from C&S.

13rd September, 2011.

Notes: Bitter orange, orange flower, neroli, ylang ylang

Czech & Speake's Neroli is an interesting one. I don't mean that it's an interesting or unique composition, just that its interesting compared to other neroli fragrances in that it relies mostly on the multi-layered and complex scent profile of the various orange flower/neroli oils to create a "perfume". "Deceptively complex" is the term I believe.

For sure the ingredients are high quality - they have to be, in this case. The opening blast of bitter orange is tangy, bitter and orangey in all the right ways, the orange flower water with its light and distilled citrus floral goodness is present right afterwards before the fragrance opens to a moderately heady neroli absolute which is suitably spicy/floral/citrusy without being overbearing. Neroli is suitably refreshing to wear but the decision to end on a mediocre grade ylang ylang oil is puzzling. The ylang ylang used here has a very 'mass market' feel in that it has a sweetish floral character with a synthetic buzzy-woody note. Seeing that this weirdly cost cutting base material is what you will be smelling for the remaining 65% of the fragrance, I don't understand why the C&S perfumers didn't choose to just end matters after the neroli flashdance expired. I prefer no base to a bad base, and this pesky ylang ylang feels like an unwelcome distant relative at a close knit family reunion of the bitter orange tree.

From a first half that smells great but feels like it required little engineering on the perfumers part, to the base which feels like a strange/bad engineering decision, Neroli leaves me ambivalent. There are many other fragrances on the market which provide a distinct twist on the neroli theme, so get Neroli only if you want a good quality neroli fragrance from high end market bathroom specialists from Ol' Blighty only.

Rating: 7.5/10.0

14th June, 2010.

quite overwhelming at first, then neroli calms down. but you will probably smell its (what i guess must be) ylang ylang notes even the second day. certainly on your clothes. long lasting, but not one of my favourites. seems even kind of fougere style. certainly at the end...

26th February, 2010.

This is a marvelous, natural, and extremely floral neroli spruced up by indoles and the exotic ylang. The opening boasts of pure orange with woody neroli. The heart is composed of a natural indolic orange blossom that mimics evening jasmine. Finally, the short-lived ylang accord appears and disappears. Wonderful, natural, and pricey.

EDIT: There is a synthetic off note that appears on heavy application that is somewhat rubbery/metallic. Still very good and one of the best pure nerolis available. No one is perfect not even Czech & Speake alas.

8th January, 2010. (Last Edited: 28th November, 2010.)