Paname (2002)
by Keiko Mecheri

Yes. It is quite similar to Lutens’ Douce Amère. This is the Keiko Mecheri version—a half-strength version that is actually—probably—a bit more wearable than DA. Paname is anise and vanilla and a touch of absinthe in a translucency that is not characteristic of the better-known Lutens creation. After the strong opening of absinthe, the fragrance settles down to its basic vanilla / anise accord, which stays very close to the skin. I agree that as a sillage maker, it has poor longevity but as a skin scent it holds its own for an acceptable four plus hours on my skin. I find Paname a bit too powdery and a bit too feminine for me; and, just like Douce Amère, Paname does not have enough of edge to it—it’s a little too unremarkable.

10th December, 2010.

I thought this would be a hands-down winner for me, as I love the smell of absinthe, and really all the plants in the artemesia family (wormwood, mugwort, salvia, etc.). However, the licorice/herbal vibe that makes the opening of Paname so excellent (and it is) simply rolls off within an hour to reveal an edible vanilla scent with very little sillage. I'm glad I tried this, but if I can find something that smells like the opening of Paname for several hours I will buy that instead.

23rd April, 2010.

A smooth vanilla and licorice. It's like cake icing smooth. The licorice is very upfront in telling you it's there. The vanilla is still smooth as silk even after 5 hours. If it weren't for the anise note, I'd love this.

23rd September, 2008.

Paname does smell a lot like Douce Amere by Serge Lutens. They are both sweet, anise-based scents with a creamy finish. Paname is not quite as sweet or creamy, though, and in that sense is more something I might actually wear and less an amusing novelty.

Unfortunately, Paname's longevity is absolutely terrible, so there's not a lot of point in wearing it.

5th November, 2006.

Paname is a sweet fragrance, and very umcomplicatedly sweet if you discount the lash of licorice whip you get from the absinthe. It starts out with a heavy dose of medicinally-tinged sweet - think liqueur (that's the absinthe - or wormwood - of course, or, on the tamer side, something like ouzo or sambuca) rather than candy - and that licorice/anise punch. That's all quite pungent and strong, but then it calms down into an unexpectedly mellow, almost skin-scent sweet, which is where the vanilla and "powder musk" come into play. All in all, it's a sexy scent and could go unisex, though I think it's a bit more feminine in its slightly dangerous, femme fatale, "try me on if you dare" way. For those who like to compare, this does bear some similarity to Serge Lutens' Douce Amere, another licorice fragrance.

13rd September, 2005.

I enjoy KM's Santal very much, but this has more gusto. Deep absinthe, spices, vanilla and musk break down and blend in like silk. Suffice to say, it has my undivided attention.

6th October, 2004.