Basenotes makes no entry for the original LE DANDY (1925) of D'Orsay, and the name of this one is a misnomer, since the scent was originally designed for women, so a "FEMME DE" makes no sense. This must be a re-formulation of the original.
As such, I have not experienced FEMME DE DANDY, but am reviewing for the record, vintage of the original LE DANDY.
It has a fruity start, then warms to a tobacco, leather, vanilla, musk combo that is warm and inviting. Some of the ingredients are clove, musk, patchouli, coumarin, vanilla, but we'll probably never know the complete original profile.
It's a very nice scent, but I have encountered others of this genre that were better - SHOCKING, FEMME, CREPE DE CHINE, so cannot say I am overly impressed with this one.
This is a fabulously luxurious fur coat of a fragrance. Warm welcoming and all enveloping. My sample is of the renamed La Dandy. I gotta get me a bottle of this to be worn on days where nothing but a big warm hug of a fragrance will do.
I'm not good at recognizing individual notes and here they meld so well I find it hard to even try.
Let's settle for Angel sat by the fire having a warming glass of top notch cognac watching Gone with the Wind
31st January, 2012 (last edited: 02nd February, 2012)
I can see a relationship between this and Le Dandy – they both have that liquor (rum and / or brandy) note in the opening. Femme de Dandy, however, has a more present sweetness supporting the liquor note and is fuller and rounder in its delivery: This is more opulent and not as resinous. It doesn’t go nearly as far as in its exoticism as Frapin 1270, but it definitely belongs in that genre. As in Le Dandy, I don’t notice much progression in Femme de… at least not very much difference between the top and the heart accords. There are spices in the fragrance, but they seem to perform more in the background than up front; I’m not sure I approve because I do like “very spicy,” but the accords here are balanced and refined and allow the rum note to lead. Two more notes of note are the carrot and the tobacco. I’ve loved the use of carrot in several fragrances – it provides a unique, comfortable sweetness that is richer and broader spectrum than many other sweetening agents, and it works as well here as in those other fragrances. The drydown gets more traditional with its long lasting musk / vanilla accord – simple but more effective than it sounds, because there are still some wisps of liquor and spice present. This is an excellent fragrance but I do not see it as feminine. It’s a sweeter, more refined, less resinous Le Dandy and I see it as completely unisex – now I have two or three fragrances of this nature to choose from.
At first I thought this was a floral perfume. But after the alcohol blew off, I realized, no, it's a FOODY perfume! Top notes of cinnamon. And an hour later, still lots of cinnamon and amber. Much much later, it was cinnamon milk. Very delicious! I sprayed it on at 19:10 and I could still smell cinnamon milk 5.5 hours later. I have been told that the perfumer behind it is Francis Kurkdjian -- the creator of Le Male -- but I don't know if that is true. It does seem, however, that both Le Male and D'Orsay's Femme de Dandy have the same musky vanilla smell on drydown.