Une Rose (2003)
by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

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Une Rose information

Year of Launch2003
GenderFeminine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 215 votes)

People and companies

HouseEditions de Parfums Frederic Malle
PerfumerEdouard Flechier
Parent CompanyEstee Lauder Companies

About Une Rose

Une Rose is a feminine perfume by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. The scent was launched in 2003 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Edouard Flechier

Reviews of Une Rose

I give this 3 and a half stars. For me, this starts out sharp. Intense. Overpowering geraniums, smother the rose, briefly. A slight wine tinge. The middle seems slightly woody, a bit earthy, as the rose mellows out. The base is lovely with a honeyed fruit, musky sweetened lipstick finish.
28th January, 2018
A rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose is a rose.

Really, I can repeat it a thousand time, so does this perfume. It's not just "une" rose, it's the universals of roses.

Except that overwhelming sweetness——but not unpleasant——I also get a heady indolic scent. It's strong enough to hallucinate you: everything is tinted rosy after one spray.
30th August, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
The star here is the rose that greets me right from the word "go!" A rich rose, not bright and a bit in the sombre side. This rose is not very smooth, it is on the crisp side of the rose spectrum. It is not really sweet on me, and whatever sweetness I get is more from the geranium that is developing in the background.

Later, further into the drydown, it turns greener and harsher. Added in is an earthy undertone that derives from the vetiver, and a patchouli-induced spiciness is growing stronger in the base. There is a touch of black Perigord truffle indeed evident towards the end, with the spiciness having a touch of a civet character not dissimilar to the spiciness in Creed's Orange Spice.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a supreme thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

A wintery scent with a nice rose, but the later makers are a bit too intrusively synthetic. Another rose-spice version, with a good rose though. Unfortunately, the other notes remain on the mediocre level only. Overall 2.75/5.
25th July, 2017
Meh, not for me. By way of explanation, cheap fake rose perfumes manufacture an artificial impression of rose by combining strawberry and honey. And Une Rose smells like berries and honey. If you believe the hype, they just so happen to use a very expensive rose essence that just happens to smell like strawberry and honey, but I'm not sure if I'm buying it.
23rd July, 2017
Aw, man . . . this should have been a TKO for me. I'm an enormous admirer of Edouard Flechier, and a complete ho for rose perfumes. Seriously, I'll wear just about anything rosey. Unfortunately, Une Rose involves this aromachemical called Karanal, which Luca Turin says smells like urine to "a small subset of women," of which I am apparently a member.

I can smell great rose materials, and an interesting structure, and an appealing dirty quality in Une Rose that normally would have me going straight to my wishlist, and trolling eBay in search of deals. But that Karanal--it's not like the urinous note in, say, Cadavre Exquis, which smells like an old-school pissoir in high summer, straight out of a Jean Genet novel; it's more like the scent of stale dog pee after you've repeatedly shampooed a rug where the little guy made his mark more than once. It mostly hovers on the edges until the drydown starts, at which point (since I think it's some sort of woody amber material) it becomes the main event.

But--as it turns out, Une Rose has been reformulated without the Karanal. I smelled a sample of the new stuff recently, and it's lovely--lovely, and unfortunately, quite ordinary, at least to my nose. Don’t get me wrong—it feels like a massive blast from the past, the One Rose to Rule Them All (maybe that’s what the name means?). I'll happily wear my sample of the new stuff and enjoy it while it lasts, but I'm not shelling out Frederic Malle money for a nice rose. Not while so many excellent roses can be had for a quarter of the price—including many vintage roses that are stuffed and bolstered with yummy IFRA-decomplaint materials like oakmoss.

I really wish I had been able to experience the original as it was meant to be smelled--the people who love it go into transports of ecstasy when they talk about Une Rose. I love truffles, and I love dirt, and I'm seriously not easily put off by animalics--I routinely wear Salome and La Nuit without a second thought--but the old Une Rose just made me feel like I needed to clean the house or something, or at least scout the corners and upholstery for spots of dog juice. And the new one . . . beautiful as it is, at the end of the day I find myself yearning for the complexities in my not-that-old bottles of Paris and Nahema and Diva—or best of all, current-issue Goutal Rose Absolue, which slays everything in its path if what you want is Rose All Day.

Nevertheless, Une Rose is worth a sample, just to enjoy the excellent quality materials and the skill and worksmanship that Flechier (the “grand brutalist” in Luca Turin’s words) brings to the table. The guy who did my eternal beloved Poison already has a place in my personal perfumery pantheon, and Une Rose shows off the same skills and tendencies toward powerhouse fragrances that know how to get you noticed (maybe even more than you might like to be—everyone will smell you coming, and they’ll really smell you when you’re going—this stuff sends off sillage tracers for miles). I know I’m greedy, but despite all its obvious virtues, I find myself wishing for even more from Une Rose, more of the good naughty stuff that makes wearing an old-school rose so satisfying. It succeeds in building and sustaining a vintage-style opening salvo for much longer than I would have thought possible, given all our current parameters of space and time—but just when I start looking forward to some relaxing base materials, it leaps up again to its former heights. It’s a little like hearing an masterpiece overture that gets inadvertently stuck on repeat—I personally need a diminuendo after a couple of hours, something a bit less allegro non troppo, and a nice puff of moss, powder, or even a touch of amber would do fine. But if you want a Big Honkin Rose, or a rose that’s mostly free of vintage references (aside from its scale and ambitions); or, if you’re like me and must at least smell all the great roses, get your hands on a sample of this and give it a whirl (and btw, your standard Malle house sample should last you several weeks with normal use—these guys do not play). ‘Tis the season, after all—sunshine, stormy weather, the days growing longer and everything bursting into bloom.


23rd June, 2017 (last edited: 13th April, 2018)
Love's Oracle -- Albert Ritzberger -- 1900
20th March, 2017

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