Une Rose (2003)
by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

It's a rose! And came out of the bottle full bloomed and bold. I was all ready to sit back and let this work magic. A ripping headache inducer after 20 mins and off she came( as much as I could any way) such a pity.

15th October, 2011.

"What's in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet."
- Juliet Capulet in Romeo & Juliet

Clearly Shakespeare wasn't a rose fragrance enthusiast for the variance and nuances among rose scents are mind-boggling. I usually prefer my roses dewy fresh though there have been notable exceptions. UNE ROSE is anything but dewy. It is plummy yet transparent, with a prominent woodsy undertone and a wine-like vibe that I found alluring in the beginning but soon wore out its welcome with its grating, somewhat acetonal presence.

Une Rose did knock my socks off though - with its pricetag.

15th October, 2011.

This is a stunningly beautiful fragrance.

I enjoy the transparent woody roses that pervade the market today, and I think Une Rose (One Rose) is among the best. However, for the price, I'm not so sure it's worth the purchase. I prefer my roses a little more complex, like Guerlain Nahema, or a little dirty, like Agent Provocateur. Une Rose is just a bit too clean, too prim, too perfect for me to love.

If you like roses, want to smell like roses, or just one rose, definitely try this ... provided you're willing to shell out $200 for 50ml in the US (Barneys). If you don't like to drop that kind of cash, pick up Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose or Demeter's Vintage Naturals Rosebush, layer it with something a bit woody, and just pretend.

17th September, 2011.

Opening begins with a strong rose accord that is alive and verdant. Geranium is present as well, and I’m struck by the juicy, springy quality of the scent at this point. Nothing old-fashioned about it.

Then, the scent gets warm, mmmmm. Like red wine. So sophisticated, so rich.

Over the top sillage. Recommend a spritz between the breasts and that’s it.

Interestingly, the scent seems to have a motor that gets stronger as it develops. The frag becomes very intoxicating and begins to feel almost too heady, too much…but not quite. Scent thens retreats a bit and draws you in more. ☺

In the drydown Une Rose loses its sweetness. Wood accords reveal themselves, with an aromatic, then slightly spicy note. The rose accord continues, but more quietly. Here, the scent takes on an almost masculine quality.

A surprising scent. A fabulous scent.

6th September, 2011.

This one is a confident and unsentimental rose with a riveting plot. First, it has a lemon zing freshness complemented by an ever-so-slightly harsh note like nail polish remover; if people mention 'thorn', the acetone would be it. Next is the sensation of chewiness that Une Rose affords – it really is like certain wines in this regard and feels viscous and fleshy when taken into the mouth via the nose. There is a dark honey sweetness to it, but also a minty fresh sheen just tinging the edges, that must be the geranium. It has chamomile charm too, which dovetails with the earlier honey and lemon touches. But best, and most prominent of all, is the truffle accord alluded to by Fléchier himself and that moves through Une Rose in a pungent arc from beginning to end: it's garlicky, vegetal, earthy, and petrol-like all at once, thereby obliterating through sheer pizazz any threat of dandyism or mere prettiness. Fantastic.

6th July, 2011.

It just figures! Both Une Rose and my favorite perfume (Montana Parfum d'Homme) are made by the same perfumer -- Eduoard Flechier. Both of these perfumes share a particular characteristic -- nuclear sillage and massive longevity.

But their notes differ.

Une Rose has a harsh opening -- I almost figured it for Tea Rose by the Perfumer's Workshop (which I hate). And it was this sharp rose top note that I disliked a lot. But, one hour later, I could smell incense. Roses and incense. And as it progresses, the incense comes out more and more. Longevity was incredible. Some of it got sprayed on my wool sweater by accident, and I hung it up in my closet after the end of the day. Two days later, my closet still smelled completely of Une Rose -- not the incense part, just the roses smell. Apparently it took the heat from my wrist to get the incense to come wafting out.

I agree with Endless79's review, in that Une Rose is a "bright" rose and remains so, for the 24 hours it continues to give off fumes, whereas Guerlain's Nahema has a more creamy mellow drydown.

I've only tried two perfumes by Flechier, but if these two are any indication, Flechier likes to do things big and long.

9th February, 2011. (Last Edited: 12nd February, 2011.)