Lipstick Rose (2000)
by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I have a thing for fragrances that smell of lipsticks and face powders. For me, that old-fashioned powdery smell is the absolute height of feminine glamour, and so I was very excited when Lipstick Rose first came out and ordered a bottle straight away. Well, it does smell like a Chanel lipstick, but it smells more plasticky and synthetic than a lipstick. It smells like all of the things the fragrance in the lipstick effectively masks; but here they're on show. Nice trick. Not what I was looking for. For pillowy powdery things, I much prefer N'Aimez que Moi, Arpege and Madame Rochas, to name but a few.

I mistakenly obtained a sample of Lipstick Rose, thinking this house only had one rose scent, when what I really wanted was Une Rose! Ah, well…

The best part about Lipstick Rose is the sharp and sweet fruity opening – an almost sparkingly raspberry accord. The top notes, at first, smell very juicy and true to the real thing. However, within minutes, that sparkling sweetness grows rapidly dull as the violet note emerges. As the sweetness decreases a notch or two, it’s from this point onwards that Lipstick rose evolves into something very one-dimensional.

Although I have no idea what Lancôme lipstick smells like, I can also detect a subtle lipstick accord becoming ever present. What started off as bright and natural now smells mute and slightly synthetic. The main problem I have is how it promised so much at the beginning only to disappoint, literally, minutes later.

I completely agree with Nukapai about this being more playful than sensual but I can only relate to this point during the opening, as the drydown is simply cold and clinical. By the drydown stage, when the violets have surrendered to the amber and slightly metallic rose accords, I’ve completely lost interest in wearing this.

Although it’s a tad feminine, I think most men are able to pull off wearing this due to its more unisex drydown. It has good longevity and stays closer to the skin as it evolves. If Lipstick Rose had a few more tricks up its sleeve, I might have given it a few more wearings. But, alas, this is not the case and there are far more interesting fragrances (both designer and niche) that can be worn in place of this.

[Original submission date: 24 October 2008]

This fragrance is one of my absolute favorites. It starts off sweet with top notes of rose, honey, violet and lavender. The basenotes are cardamom and vetiver. The dry can come across a bit synthetic, but as it sets the notes come back together and serve up the experience of kissing in a rose garden.

Very accurate Lancome lipstick smell (circa 1980). If I was still a full-time make-up artist, I'd probably wear this to work for the comedy value! It's a pretty smell, doesn't offend, but it's perhaps not one to make you feel particularly sensual, serious or sexy. It certainly DOES make you feel frivolous! It also reminds me of old face powder and theatre dressing rooms. Nice olfactory story!

Some people may enjoy wearing the smell of old-fashioned lipstick but I am not one of them. Notice I said the word "wearing" because from a curiosity viewpoint, it can be very interesting to do a bit of time travel via smell. Frederic Malle's Lipstick Rose conjured up nostalgic thoughts of my grandmother's purse, rummaging around in my aunt's crowded cosmetics drawer and the most beautiful model ever- 50's model Suzy Parker, all very glamorous and happy memories. Lipstick Rose really does have that unmistakable rose and violet "lipstick" fragrance that I remember from the Revlon days of yore. "Cherries in the Snow" anyone? But as far as wanting to personally smell like a tube of lipstick, I shall politely decline the offer.

Per The Perfumed Court, here are the notes: violet, grapefruit, ambrette, coriander, tagette, aldehydes, rose, iris, raspberry, and heliotrope.

I received a bottle of Lipstick Rose as a gift, and after sampling it very briefly (one day) I put it aside feeling it wasn't for me. The second sampling, months later was better, and I am about ready to buy a second bottle. I love to try all rose perfumes, but am picky I guess because some just fall flat or seem too commercial. I was wearing Rose Barbare for months on end and was happy. This one bright, cheerful, and more complex than I originally thought. Men seem very attracted to it, just as they are to The Rose Barbare. Must be the quality of the rose. Or men just love roses.