Ambre 114 (2001)
by Histoire de Parfums

At first whiff, I thought I had sampled from the wrong vial and had spritzed on some Imperial Opoponax by mistake. The opening sweetness certainly has a similar vibrancy to the Les Nereides; apparently these two share more than a few base notes. But AMBRE 114 has the greater depth, with swiftly unraveling fine notes of rose and woods wafting in and out of the amber with such subtlety you're likely to miss them. And perhaps that's why earlier references to 'herbal' escape me as I find this to be sweet from top to bottom. A top ranking high quality amber scent in my books.

Well, well, well! What do we have here?

Personally, Ambre 114 is everything Ambre Sultan should have been. They are very much alike but there’s a richer amber presence that is both mouth-wateringly delicious and warm. Also, the herbal properties of Ambre Sultan are toned down in Ambre 114, making it much easier to enjoy when first encountered.

The top notes of thyme and nutmeg in no way challenge the nose – in fact, I found the presence of the thyme to be more harmonious with the rest of the composition than in Ambre Sultan. As others have mentioned, this is extremely well-blended and the sweetness of the amber recedes after a while. After this stage, it reveals more of its resinous nature but in a very polite way. Also, the base notes of ambergris, musk and a combination of vanilla, tonka bean and benzoin create a very soft, and yet satisfying, powdery drydown.

With very good longevity and moderate sillage, Ambre 114 is not the most tenacious or nuclear of amber fragrances available. However, it’s such a beautifully crafted scent that this more than compensates for its shortcomings. Although it’s not particularly challenging to the nose, it’s certainly not a boring scent either. Where this will appeal to those who don’t care for amber scents, it also offers a rich prospect of enjoyment for certified amber lovers.

I really wasn’t expecting to be bowled over by yet another amber fragrance but there’s no denying Ambre 114’s appeal – this is now one of my top five favourite ambers. Unfortunately, as I’ve already found my perfect amber scent, there’s very little point in owning a bottle of this. However, this hasn’t stopped me from trying to talk myself into buying a bottle just for the heck of…

This wonderful scent is so named because apparently 114 different compounds go into the mixing of this amazing concoction. The first impression as it first hits your nostrils is that of sweetness, but that somehow dissipates within minutes and settles into a much less sweeter fragrance than it first appears. I agree with "surreality's" post as to the fact that the scent is so well blended that it's hard to identify different notes, however not unless you are sensitive to geranium. Fifteen minutes in and the geranium note takes over and to my nose stays, mixed with the lovely ambery goodness, right till the drydown where the vanilla then takes over. It is definitely quite a different amber to the many amber fragrances out there and this I put down to that (unusual) addition of the strong geranium. So if you don't like geranium, steer clear! Otherwise, this is definitely one of my favourite ambers for its uniqueness.

Ambre 114 is powerful and complex, but subtle and refined perfume. It envelops the wearer in a close-fitting cloud of ambery goodness, that is always in front of the nose. The herbal top notes dampen the sweetness of the amber, making this a very wearable fragrance that never gets cloying, even in warmer weather. Apart from the top notes that last for the first hour and the musk base that becomes most evident after about 8 hours it is really hard to identify individual notes; which shows just how well balanced this fragrance is. Longevity is excellent; I applied two sprays over 15 hours ago and it is still going strong. This projects off the skin nicely, (hence the closefitting cloud of ambery goodness comment) but it isn't a sillage monster. In short, Ambre 114 is a gorgeous fragrance, one that any amber lover (and those that don't think that they like amber fragrances) should try at least once.

In two words I would call it ‘herbal amber’. Interesting scent in that while most ambers I have tried are fairly sweet, in Ambre 114 (as it is now called) the sweetness is very subdued. Herbal elements, particularly thyme and nutmeg, work with the amber and tone down any sweetness to it. This makes for an interesting accord. In the base, one gets mild sweetness as vanilla becomes detectable, but it is still less than most all amber fragrances I have tried to date. I do not see myself buying this one, but it is definitely worthy of consideration.

Top notes: thyme, nutmeg;
Middle notes: amber, rose, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver and geranium;
Base notes: ambergris, vanilla, musk, tonka beans, and benzoin.

This is not your sweet, sweet amber. The top is herbal and spicy with its thyme and nutmeg: Normally I do not think of these particular notes as belonging together, let alone in combination with amber… but the accord does work beautifully. Histoire de Parfums’ Ambree could be considered an amber fragrance for those who don’t care for amber because the dry softness of this version of amber, along with the spice / herbs, downplay the abundant sweetness that is usually connect to amber. Even with the ambergris, vanilla, tonka, and benzoin of the base, the fragrance avoids the heady sweetness often attributed to amber. This is a very enjoyable and wearable unisex fragrance. It doesn’t have a strong sillage and its lifespan is a bit short, but it’s thumbs up all the way…