Vanilia (1978)
by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I'm not sure why, but I have a thing for vanilla fragrances. It's odd because otherwise I shy away from sweet scents, especially anything both fruity and sweet. Having sampled many vanilla fragrances, I can honestly say this is one of my favorite, and it is the best representation of one end of the vanilla spectrum. Specifically, this is a minimalist, light vanilla, as opposed to thick, rich amber heavy vanillas such as SL Un Bois Vanille or floral vanillas like Dior Addict.

I assume it's the addition of ethylmaltol that makes Vanilia unique (Turin, p.347). The effect to my nose is to create a soapy undertone to the vanilla note, which is already delicate to begin with. The overall result is a vanilla that is lightly sweetened without being overbearing or cloying in the slightest. There isn't much development - after all this is a vanilla fragrance - but I did notice that the soapiness eventually mellows, making the entire composition a little cotton-candyish.

Definitely bottle-worthy, Vanilia would be a great for the office or anywhere else that you want to enjoy vanilla without projecting yourself like a dunkin donuts. Although definitely wearable by a man, this would be a sexy vanilla on a woman.

After a sharp burst of alcohol, Vanilia settles into an uncomplicated creamy vanilla accord atop a foundation of quiet woods. That it’s neither over sweetened nor burdened by heavy amber makes Vanilia an attractive alternative to the more common vanilla oriental scents. That its vanilla is soft and natural smelling also spares it from the cheap crudeness that plagues most vanilla perfumes. On the down side, Vanilia doesn’t offer much by way of depth or development. I imagine it would be useful on those occasions where you just want to smell like vanilla, but I don’t have too many of those.

This one came as a complete surprise to me. I'm not a vanilla fan, as i don't want to smell like muffins. But it doesn't. On my tricky body chemistry, it is more floral than expected and gentle. Not foody at all. It seems to have a bit of amber and spice in it, although I get no smokiness at all.

To me, this fragrance smells a little bit too much like achohol. but it smells wonderful when layered with the figuier. it creates a wonderful combination.

I can appreciate ubuandibeme's feeling that this fragrance is "unfinished." There are times when I find it thin and undone in a disconcerting way. However, at other times, that is just what I adore about this very unusual vanilla.

I initially wanted to try this because of it's alleged smokiness, but I get none of that at all - instead, what I get is a barely sweet vanilla which evokes water. Tepid, flowing water, gliding over rocks in a shallow brook. Water and the color blue of a glowing twilight sky. There is certainly a feeling of something missing - it evokes air, water, emptiness in a way.

The wateriness, which I think may come from orris root and possibly tonka, at times bothers me and at other times bewitches me. I don't feel it suits me at all as a personal fragrance, but it's a beautiful scent to have a sample of. It perfectly evokes a particular romantic and somber mood I slip into on rare occasions, one which makes me feel like a ghost. Vanilia is a fragrance for waking dreams and wandering in the haunting dusk.

Sorry ~ I'm trying to love this Vanilia but it's not working. It seems "un-finished" to me...like it's missing a key element. Suprising too is the speed at which this scent escapes my body. The nicest comment I can make is that it is NOT sweet or foody. This one's going on my swap list...