I first became aware of this when I bought the shaving soap, so I'm a bit surprised that it is officially described as unisex. From memory the shaving soap was a lot more Patchouli woody than the EdP, but is fairly similar. It is a nice light woody herbal. I don't find it especially Fougere, nor does it remind me of any other fragrances; certainly not Old Spice nor Havana. Not as floral as the first, not as Labdanum rich as the second. There is a vetiver greenness together with a liberal use of modern woody amber molecules. It is well blended, and lasts a reasonably long time. If I owned a chest wig I would wear this all of the time. As it is, I will wear it when I have become bored with flowers and sweet orientals. It is a perfect opposite to Agent Provocateur, or L'Heure Bleu, or Tea Rose (all of which I wear). To be perverse I should wear it with purple silk shirt, and maybe a touch of makeup; just to confuse the punters. Or maybe not.
Insanely bad performance from my 2014 bottle and doesn't smell all that great either.
Forget the fancy note pyramid.
Sure this opens pleasantly, smelling of mildly sweet citruses and a good tobacco note. But this phase last two minutes and is replaces by a strong, prickly, astringent black pepper that carries the fragrance for about 20 minutes and transports you to your mum's spice rack. The fragrance then becomes a light Amber scent that is barely there before the whole thing disappears after just over an hour.
Of course, every sale of this fragrance is sealed by the pleasant first two minutes. The all of the perfumer is to have concentrated their efforts into this brief phase of the fragrance.
A crime is committed every time a bottle is sold.
Dry Aromatic Tobacco Leaves...
What I really love about this one, is that it takes you back to the days when fragrances were good! You know, when you smelt something and it had bite and character, the aromatic fougères and masculines of the past. This is a dark, dry, smoker's scent. I get tobacco leaves being rolled into Cuban cigars... chilli and patchoulli and pine needles, sage and other herbs, underlined with a grassy, dry tonka bean. Almost like tonka flavoured tobacco leaves made for a fine quality cigar.
I also get cloves and hot spices mixed with dry herbs. It's very aromatic, and perfect for colder weather, a great individual scent for a strong personality type. Very distinctive. It's good, it reminds me of older stuff, Old Spice etc. But it has great character and great for smokers and non-smokers alike. Well done Lyn Harris!
Feuilles de Tabac’s top notes of sharp citrus and anise segue rapidly to a realistically rendered moist pipe tobacco and dark liqueur accord that’s backed up by sweetened woods. It’s a simple and appealing accord, though unfortunately short-lived. Within a half an hour it gives way to a very conventional powdery wood and sweet amber drydown. The last episode is an anticlimax, and I really wish that the tobacco would persist for a few hours. If it did, I’d consider this a great scent, but as it is I find it disappointing.
The opening is pleasant, a bit ordinary perhaps, but masculine and contemporary: vetiver, tobacco and spices (cloves) on an amber-incense base, quite dense but fresh and aerial at the same time. Stuffed with Iso E and ambrox, but good – I like these materials so I do not mind "spotting" them, especially if they are blended with other materials to create a contemporary take on classic themes – this time, the "fougère" structure. As minutes pass it gets more and more drier, the tobacco note emerges better and more bitter, more raw and humid, and for a while I must say it is quite cool. Sadly the expectations are partially frustrated, as it then evolves in a rather inoffensive, safe drydown, surely pleasant and elegant but a bit dull – a "crowdpleaser", in short. Nice and cozy like that pair of understated sneakers you'd wear to walk the dog after dinner, worth a bargain if you happen to find it discounted. Longevity is delicate, but persistent.