Fumerie Turque (2003)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

a loaded one from Lutens,
I got involved into good fragrances and buying them by Lutens.
maybe that's why a few years later I can tell a Lutens smell out of the rest of the world.
FT stands out from the rest of the Lutens for there is an sharp edge to this one.
The complex and fine cut smoke counterparts the sweet, warm and thick layer of flowers and vanillaised honey, making the result and interesting up and down between light and heavy, light and dense, discretion and presence.
A perfect fit for the vintagedays chasing through europe currently!

25th December, 2011. (Last Edited: 5th January, 2012.)

F.T is a respectful melancholic spicy -oriental created in order to reproduce the Harlem's nights atmosphere, nevertheless for many too  much evocative, ambiental and  reproducing in its strong smokiness in the way it loses in distinction, versatility although not in olfactory esteem. A nice fragrance, no dubt, but kind of meditative, intimate and introspective in my perception. The smoke is furious throughout the trip and evolves untamed, alive and kicking unlike the same element does along its journey in  fragrances as Habanita, Cuba, Jasmine et Cigarette, Scent Intense and Black Tourmaline.  It's very dense and oleous and introduces an accord of turkish rose oil, jasmine, chamomille, red currant and juniper berries over a sensual and smoky base where the link of tonka, patchouli and pure synthetical smoke is placed on a mellow base of honey, suede, vanilla, stirax and benzoin. All the elements are surrounded by a blast of dusty spices. The usage of chamomille is notable at the beginning in its after taste before the red currant and the juniper berries start the way of depth. Rose and jasmine inpress nocturnal sophistication and a touch of melancholy, smoke and patchouli set mystery and authority while the stirax is a dusty supplement to smoke. Juniper berries and a touch of musk with some woods impress a woodsy undertone to the concoction. I appreciate the final note of suede that imprints a sort of velvety leathery touch to  smoke like being the smell of a leathery jacket impregnated of smoke after a night spent in a jazz club of New Orleans. Unisex. Longevity and sillage are great.

23rd August, 2011. (Last Edited: 13rd December, 2011.)

A beautiful woman wearing a spicy oriental perfume who smokes and has slighly peed her pants. Is it wrong to like this - occasionally?

26th April, 2011.

Has plenty going for it in the smoke and traditional Lutens amber-sweet accords which are ever present, but in the end I just can't get over the PEE. I don't want to smell like a cat sleeping in its own urine. Granted, it's probably just my skin, as I can't imagine how so many people could enjoy this (seeing the positive review) if it settled down to Eau de Porta-Potty on everybody.

22nd April, 2011.

At first this reminded me of a more intense leathery incarnation of Habit Rouge. Then that patchouli/mothball smell kicked in. I couldn't take it, I had to scrub it. I don't know how this is compared to Chergui. Chergui smells like a wonderful bouquet of hay, tobacco, and vanilla. Fumerie Turque is bug repellant.

26th March, 2011. (Last Edited: 14th May, 2011.)

I went from being disgusted by it, to being completely in love with the scent.

It is bitter sweet both in smell and the feeling it evokes.

7th February, 2011.