Reviews of Fumerie Turque (2003)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

I understand the love that some have of this fragrance, and I understand the detractors, too.

On my skin this went on with a blast of brilliantly rendered tobacco smoke, which settled slightly over the first few minutes to reveal powerful notes of spiced amber and honey, not too far removed, in fact, from this house's Ambre Sultan. Honey underpins Fumerie Turque's heart, but this honey is not so heavy and enveloping as that found in Miel de Bois or Arabie. You're not likely to drown in it.

At about wo hours into its development on my skin, Fumerie Turque loses some of its balance and comlexity. Some pleasing notes, including the currants andt the rose, recede, and I'm left with honey, cigarette smoke, and amber. The tobacco smoke in Fumerie Turque doesn't seem to me to be as fully blended as in scents like Palais Jamais, Vintage Tabarome, and Habanita. In fact, when Fumerie Turque's smokey accord is in the forefront I smell like...well, like a smoker. As the drydown progresses the smoke and the sweet base notes alternate in dominance, until all that remains is smoke.

If I wanted to smell like a smoker, I would smoke. It's cheaper than wearing Fumerie Turque, if perhaps a bit less healthy. So while I appreciate Fumerie Turque's stature and quality I have no desire to wear it.

Well, I guess it is just not what I had hoped for. Tried it several times, wanting to love it, but simply don't. It is complex, there are many notes to discover, but to they just don't fit together.
First of all there is no smoke (I love the smell of pipe tobacco - pure and burnt), what I get here is just tar and perhaps ash! Then ther is a very strong rose component and honey mixing in to this.
To my nose it is just too strange, not smooth at all!
I guess there is more to discover, not for me though.

In case you are tempted to order this one blind: be warned, you may not like!