Malabah (2003)
by Penhaligon's

An enjoyable romp through the Penhaligon's condiment rack. The diverse yet subtle array of sensuary phases within Malabah ensure that one is continually delighted and surprised in equal measure. The opening is lightly citric, with its simple lemon and tea accord offering a brief, yet cleansing experience. With its spiced core and lightly sweetened base, there is a fluidity and confidence that remain enchanting until the end. This is unquestionably a unisex fragrance, and a damn fine one at that.

I actually like this one but, for an EDP, the longevity is absolutely pitiful. This exotic woody-floral could have been a clear personal favourite from this house but, very much like L’Artisan, they had to spoil it by watering down the composition. Oh, but Penhaligon's and L'Artisan are owned by the same company, aren't they?

It all makes sense now...

[Original submission date: 24 November 2008]

I have this and am wearing it today. I had been a bit disappointed in it, as I get too much of the citrus top notes - but have just realised (late afternoon) that I can now smell the sandalwood base note. I still seem to miss the middle spicy notes though.... I like Malabah but I just wish it was heavier and more "oriental".

I get the sandalwood from the base immediately upon application, and that means that I don’t get the citrus. The sandalwood is soft and rich and complements beautifully the Earl Grey Tea. It gets quite spicy and a bit exotic for several minutes. Exotic in the sense of creative combination of ingredients, but the sillage strength is discreet and Malabah is uncommonly fetching and sensitive. The spices dissolve into a nutmegy rose and light powder as the fragrance temporarily moves from exotic to gentle and feminine. It’s difficult to tell when these heart notes change to base notes because the movement is so smooth. The base retains the sandalwood in combination with other woods, musk, and amber in another dry, gentle accord. This is a lovely fragrance and I admire the rustic notes and accords that are rendered with such clarity, sensitivity, and delicacy. I think it’s suitable for men as well as perfect for women.

This is not the oriental they describe it as, this is in fact a very delightful, lightly spiced tea scent. The first thing I thought was "Five O'Clock Au Gingembre Light!" It's like the cologne version of the Lutens, with the ginger replaced with citrus and the woody/musky basenotes removed. Since I already love and own the Lutens I don't really see any need for an extremely watered down version that vanishes within an hour, but if you find the Lutens too heavy or cloying it might be a good alternative. Thumbs up for the topnotes, neutral thumb for the longevity.

Like Penhaligon's Opus 1870, this is another non-scent for me. Even with generous applications, I can hardly detect a scent at all. What I get for Malabah is a very light floral mix, drying down to cedar, although there is no cedar in the listed ingredients. Neither Malabah nor Opus 1870 seem concentrated enough to truly do their jobs as colognes.

13 notes:

Top: Lemon, Earl Grey Tea, Cilantro
Middle: Ginger, Nutmeg, Cardamom, Rose, Orris, Jasmine, Violet
Base: Amber, Sandalwood, Musk