Peau d'Espagne (1901)
    by Santa Maria Novella






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    Showing 1 to 6 of 21 reviews.

    JackTwist's avatar
    JackTwist
    United States United States

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    shamu1 has said it all and very well indeed.

    Dark and dry, bitter, herbal, resinous, strong, black, smoky, meaty. One of the first and greatest leathers ever made and thank goodness, still available after 113 years.

    In the late 1800s/early 1900s it was one of forty Peau d'Espagnes available and one of the very few to have survived intact without any attempt to beautify the harsh real leather scent. Barbara Herman tells us that the secret is the use of linaloe berry (a cross between lavender, bergamot and mint), which gives it that dry, bitter, herbal note. Musk, amber and civet go a long way to soften the effect as it dries down.

    Too bad it is so expensive - it is a great great leather and should be experienced by everyone interested in the scent. One of the most masculine scents ever made. Samples are available affordably on the internet.

    20th March, 2014

    gimmegreen's avatar
    gimmegreen
    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Yee-haw! Saddle up cowpoke and stuff a sock down yer jocks.
    One heck of a swaggering scent, which opens with a burst of sweet herbs and freshly split wood but soon finds its balance in a mix of smoky birch tar, well-used leather and a sweaty fenugreek-like note. Well-constructed, if a little piercing when sniffed up close. The sweat fades as the hours go by, and the leather gets drier and drier Ė and increasingly addictive. Beautiful, if somewhat challenging, stuff from the start. Funnily enough, this opens up splendidly on a summerís day, gaining an airy dimension that the winter cold damps down.
    Historical note: the name refers to the expensive scented Spanish leather items which had their heyday among the aristos of Queen Elizabeth Iís reign. Why scent your leather? To cover up the pong of having cured it in urine.

    14 November, 2013

    rbaker's avatar
    rbaker


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    Sweetish leather

    On my skin this is piirimarily a leather scent, a moderately sweet leather but mess sweet than, for instance, Creed's Royal Delight. It is intensive, with a bit of a herbal, slightly medicinal touch in the drydown at times, but really leather, leather, leather. There is never a harsh note in it, but a gently smoky touch is note. I like it, as I do the good silage and projection. Longevity of over three hours on me.

    01st June, 2013

    iivanita's avatar
    iivanita
    Croatia Croatia

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    This is very turbulent leather, it opens as mentholated smoked ham, unusual combination of notes, then it smells animalic and herbal at the same time, and reminds me at certain parts of my reference leather scent Montale Cuir the Arabie, but not as nice

    Spanish leather smells like apotheque, and calms down in some bitter herbal mix, not having much to do with leather scent, reminded me a little bit of Cuir Lancome at moments too, that floral smokeyness,its nice on its own, but is too green for my taste maybe

    13 March, 2013

    teardrop's avatar
    teardrop
    England England

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    l get a mentholated opening, reminiscent to my nose of certain disinfectants, particularly Dettol. This soon gives way to a dry leather, with just a touch of sweetness when sniffed from a distance. ln the heart, the leather turns salty & animalic, like warm male skin, reminding me of Dans Tes Bras. Later still, the base is a soft, lightly powdery leather, fading out after around five hours.
    l find this fragrance surprisingly cuddly, not at all harsh or austere as l was expecting. l would encourage more of you ladies out there who love leathers to try this one!

    21st November, 2012

    Andyjreid's avatar
    Andyjreid
    Scotland Scotland

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    I've worn the Peau d'Espagne now for a couple of days from a sample and simply, I'm blown away.

    I find it hard to describe how I feel about it. It's old yet has a modern abstract feeling about it. Very much un-mainstream. I absolutely love the birch tar note in there and that adds a real "old world" woody aspect to the fragrance. The whole time this is going on you have faint floral/herbaceous notes floating about in there and they are sitting at the side on a pillow of talc.

    The star of this scent though is the medicinal/balmy/ambery binding in the base which along with the dryness of this scent, brings all the notes together. "Leather " fragrances can be cloying (GFT Spanish Leather) and can sometimes be over the top (Knize Ten). I agree with one of the previous reviews saying this is stronger than the above but it is much more perfectly balanced than any other leather I've worn before.

    I had previously started a thread in the forum here about finding a scent which was the smell of walking into the entrance hall of Santa Maria Novella in Florence. A lot of answers came back but this is that scent (maybe adding in a little of SMN Pot Pourri), this is alchemy, this is Santa Maria Novella.

    The smell of a perfumer in a centuries old building with surrounds just as old. Old oak which has soaked up all the fragrances past and holds those scents as memories for everyone to smell in the future.

    This is simply wonderful.

    Now...... to try and source a bottle.

    26 July, 2012

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