Numero Uno
by Carthusia

Carthusia’s Numero Uno is a soapy green citrus chypre in a deliberately retro style that has its roots in mid-twentieth century masculines like Chanel pour Monsieur and Monsieur de Givenchy. It differs from its precursors in being at once more sweetly fruity on top and more bitter-soapy at its core. The exaggerated discrepancy between fruit and cleansing agent may have been intended as a kind of olfactory chiaroscuro, but if so the “modernist” gesture leaves Numero Uno’s structure feeling less integral than its older cousins from Chanel and Givenchy.

Lemon, bergamot, petitgrain and lavender dominate the opening, with moss, geranium, clary sage and patchouli notes sliding in underneath to provide the foundation. A mellow labdanum-seasoned amber base note rounds out the chypre structure and anchors the bittersweet resinous drydown. While Numero Uno may not hang together as well as older citrus chypres – Cristalle, Chanel pour Monsieur and Monsieur Givenchy included – I credit Carthusia for introducing a new fragrance in this style. The fragrance works well as a revival, though I’ll still reach for the reissued Monsieur de Givenchy when I want a soapy green citrus chypre.

4th April, 2011.

Gorgeous soapy chypre. There is something striking and hugely appealing about the cool, soapy quality created by a woody bitter orange, camphorous herbs and violet in Numero Uno. The chypre base of moss and patchouli gives a damp underpinning, but it’s the particular floral/herbal accord that defines Numero Uno from start to finish. A first cousin to Chanel Pour Monsieur’s chypre on one side and Grey Flannel’s violet-orange fougère on the other.

22nd March, 2011.

This was such a surprise! I feel apologetic for not liking No Uno, simply because it is one of the finest fragrances in the market! The fact that I am not fond of coniferous fragrances doesn't make this any less of a great and potent fragrance. No Uno is a very elegant and well made fragrance which lasts and lasts. It is olfactory, in an old gentleman way, and I am impressed by its longevity. Money well spent on this one for those of you who have a taste for sparkly cypress that doesn't dissolve into thin air.

15th August, 2010.

Carthusia Numero Uno

Laura Tonatto undertook the task of creating perfumes for Carthusia back in 2006 and Numero Uno was released in 2007. Ms. Tonatto has created a very masculine chypre which develops in a fairly traditional way but holds true to what I think she was trying to accomplish. The top of Numero Uno is a classic, some might say ubiquitous, mix of citrus and lavender as a tart orange note is cut with lavender. This is the opening of many scent journeys and there are no new revelations made in this one just a competent opening salvo which is well-executed. It is in the heart where things get interesting as it is here where Ms. Tonatto chooses to amp up the herbal character of the scent by making thyme the central note but pairs it with ylang-ylang and a camphor note to give the heart of this a vaporous beauty that is unique as it revolves from aromatic herbal to lush floral to the iciness of camphor. This makes for a beautiful heart of this scent. The base is back on common ground as vetiver, patchouli and a hint of musk bring this back to familiar surroundings. For a man looking for a masculine chypre I think Numero Uno could be just the ticket.

25th April, 2009.

A linear spicy musk. Very "perfumey" and old and in your face.

6th September, 2008.

I was very eager to see what Carthusia was all about after reading thru interesting quotes in Blogs and the constant praise and admiration this House has. It didnt disappoint...however, it didnt smell unique..in other words, i was familiar with the accords in it and it reminded me of few scents it must have been possibly inspired from...

Numero Uno opens with a very boozy accord, in a very nail polish remover kind of way...this accord very soon progresses to a very tart, bright, citrus notes... the effect of Orange peel is very very similar to YSL Live Jazz with a healthy dose of Lavender..its some where in transition from Top to Mid notes that it Uses Thyme in a powdery, copperish way that we are so used to and done in a elegant way in one other scent. The scent that im refering too is PDN New York. Numero Uno relies heavily on this Herbal accord which was so well crafted by PDN in her Masterpiece New York...the mid notes is merely a combination of YSL Live Jazz and PDN NY, not as spicy and balanced as NY though...somewhere in the base, the accords get very crowded and it almost a colossal display and disturbing collage of animalic notes on a base of mushy green vetiver and incense. somehow, it's very raw and real.. seems out of place..maybe it was intented to be raw in it's approach..but again, for someone who has YSL LJ and PDN New York..it'll be hard to ignore the similarities...at the same time, Fans of the same would rever this scent with same passion.

3rd September, 2008. (Last Edited: 7th October, 2008.)