Reviews of Numero Uno
by Carthusia

Carthusia Numero Uno

Laura Tonatto undertook the task of creating perfumes for Carthusia back in 2006 and Numero Uno was released in 2007. Ms. Tonatto has created a very masculine chypre which develops in a fairly traditional way but holds true to what I think she was trying to accomplish. The top of Numero Uno is a classic, some might say ubiquitous, mix of citrus and lavender as a tart orange note is cut with lavender. This is the opening of many scent journeys and there are no new revelations made in this one just a competent opening salvo which is well-executed. It is in the heart where things get interesting as it is here where Ms. Tonatto chooses to amp up the herbal character of the scent by making thyme the central note but pairs it with ylang-ylang and a camphor note to give the heart of this a vaporous beauty that is unique as it revolves from aromatic herbal to lush floral to the iciness of camphor. This makes for a beautiful heart of this scent. The base is back on common ground as vetiver, patchouli and a hint of musk bring this back to familiar surroundings. For a man looking for a masculine chypre I think Numero Uno could be just the ticket.

A chypre of unusually masculine character. In spite of the inclusion of ylang-ylang in the formula, this isn't remotely a stereotypical feminine scent in feeling. It may be the one note that rings false in this chime; it seems out of place with the more herbal floral of lavender, and certainly with eucalyptus and the other herbals. In conjunction with the musk, the sweet floral makes this scent a bit powdery at first, although that impression diminishes after the first twenty minutes or so. Then it blends more smoothly into the rest of the formula and largely loses the powdery aspect. This fragrance took a little getting used to for me, but once past the rough spot, I now like it quite a bit. In the end, it comes out as a slyly suave and even slightly rakish bit of work, the sort of thing to wear when one is in the mood for fun and a little taste of the offbeat in life.

I tried this a few days ago. It was an interesting scent. Not the best I have ever smelled - but it was interesting enough to try again and maybe buy later on. I recommend you try it. Thumbs up for now.
benb

Along with "mucho macho" I would add, with a heart of gold.
Notes include: bergamot, Sicilian orange, lavender, thyme, eucalyptus, violet, ylang-ylang, patchouli, vetiver, myrrh and white musk.
This juice is fantastico! As with Carthusia Uomo, this is not in your face Italian. It's more like a subtle, yet convincing, come hither look (scent).
The citrus/herbaceous opening is truly head-spinning yet controlled. Shortly thereafter, the myrrh note appears. This note's role transports the somewhat linear, yet unique whole into its woody and musky drydown. I am not a fan of some musks, but this slightly soapy one works for me. I don't get much of the eucalyptus or vetiver in this composition. They're present but only as supporting roles. The main green/herb note appears to be thyme. The violet-ylang, heart accord is what makes Numero Uno special per me.
It has been compared to chypres like Parfums de Nicolaï, New York and Chanel, Pour Monsieur. I prefer Numero Uno because of its more natural and brighter aspects. If tenacity is very important to you, I would choose another. If natural, unique and transcendental are your thing, go for it.

My pic from this Italian nunnery or monastery or whatever it is. Lot of Rosemary going on here, but the accompanying ingredients prevent it from biting the shit out of you. Mucho Macho. Can't wait to try Uomo.