Luctor et Emergo (1998)
by People of the Labyrinths

Luctor et Emergo is nothing more than a horribly cheap synthetic take on the whole loukoum / gourmand theme. The cherry smells too sharp and the powderiness is, at times, irritating. Moreover, the Play-Doh accord, which has been mentioned by others, is very evident.

For those looking for a substantial take on this theme, try either Montale’s Sweet Oriental Dream, Keiko Mecher’s Loukhoum or Serge Lutens’ Rahät Loukoum – all three are far more representative of this type of gourmand and much better composed.

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

The People of the Labyrinths Luctor et Emergo

When reading reviews there are a couple of criticisms that are leveled at scents which are supposed to be withering accusations, that they are synthetic or they smell like Play-Doh. This scent shoulders the burden of having both of these labels applied to it. As one who likes the synthetic notes of Beyond Paradise for Men and has no childhood trauma associated with Play-Doh I was looking forward to wearing this. The top of this starts off with a cherry-almond accord that is subtle, and not too sweet on me, there is something of a plastic quality to it like a supermarket package of cherries and almonds wrapped together which gives the "not quite from nature" feel to the top of this. That synthetic quality takes over in full in the heart as the cherries recede and a stronger deeper note presides, which does bear a similarity to Play Doh, but this is sweeter and along with this artificial note there are some natural notes of woods and incense to keep this grounded. The synthetic note fades to the background in the base and I continue to get hits of it but the woods along with vanilla are more prominent at this point in the development. This is one of those scents that gets put in the interesting category, for me. I won't be reaching for this on a regular basis but there will be days when this combination will seem like just the ticket.

I'm with lookinglass on this one. A single puff of delicate sweet incense, delectable vanilla, powdery almond, and even a whisper of pipe tobacco. The edt is what I'm sampling, I find it to be a comforting gourmand. My nose is enjoying the banquet! Dries down to a soft powder which is mild and pleasing. For some reason, in the drydown it brings to mind L'Artisans' Ambre Extreme. Interesting and creative! Nope, no play-doh here.

I find this scent very light, cool, and clean. I didn't get the playdough accord that many mention. I call it (after the dry down) clean, late summer grasses, down wind from a grove of ripe cherry trees. I caught a whiff of far off cherries in a cool, dry early evening meadow. I have experienced this as a child on the farm I grew up on. Large expanses of grassy fields and in the distance there would be apple and cherry trees. I remember running my fingers through dried out grasses as I walked along, smelling hints of the large round hay bales and orchard fruits riping. The sun was settling and it was time to go inside and I would hear my Mother calling me. The air was crisper, cooler as it got darker and the scents around me got more distinct. That's what this reminds me of. The scent of cherries, dry grasses, and cool clean evening wind. For those who call that scent cheap, you may be right. The best things in life are free. I'd be happy to pay for this one though, they managed to bottle a wholesome memory.

This is my Desert Island frag. If I could have only one, it would be Luctor et Emergo. I know that many people get Play Doh from this frag, and while I do get a whiff, it certainly isn't the first thing that springs to mind. It's darkly resinous and soft. Sticky preserved cherries and almonds. Dark wooden flooring and cello music playing in a distant room while you read a book during a snowstorm. It's difficult for me not to sink into flowery language talking about this one! Comparisons to different Loukhoum frags confuse me a little - this is slightly gourmand but nowhere near the sweetness and in-your-faceness of, for example, Keiko Mecheri's Loukhoum - it's much drier, with some quiet, mysterious spiciness in there. If this frag were a solid, I'd have a hard time resisting eating it. Or at least getting naked and rolling around in it.

For some reason, Luctor et Emergo generates feelings of near hysteria on certain fragrance blogs/boards so it was with a bit of trepidation that I reached for it at Aedes in NYC to try. I had no idea what to expect and upon spraying, was shocked that Luctor et Emergo is basically a girlish almond and cherry blossom scent. It was pleasant enough (I would take this over the intense Pierre Frapin fragrances any day) but I am still puzzled that a grown women would want to smell like this. Maybe for some people, Luctor et Emergo conjures up happier days of eating grandma's homemade cherry pie. Maybe it is the gratuitously weird name that bears no relation to the actual scent. Maybe it is the peculiar beaker bottles that draw one to POTL in general. In any event, Luctor et Emergo was a bit like the "Emperor with no clothes on" to me. Not much there once all was revealed.

From what I've been able to glean online, here are Luctor et Emergo's notes: sweet incense, vanilla, woods, cherry, almonds, marzipan, fresh grasses and white florals.