Eau Noire Cologne (2004)
by Christian Dior

GROUP. Oriental-fougere. GENDER. Ladies you can try it (please dont forget to put the bottle back into his closet). CREATIVITY. Walks in the path of Caron's 1934 hit ''Pour Un Homme'' but finally it has its own character. Certainly the most memorable fragrance from the trio range (Bois d' Argent, Cologne Blance, Eau Noire) created under the guidance of Hedi Slimane (the talented, skinny trousers former designer of Dior Homme). DAY OR NIGHT? I was tempted several times to try it at daytime but naahhh. It is definitely an evening one. Just dont waste it with a jeans & t-shirt outfit. LONGEVITY. Amazing longevity (at least on me) so be cautious and spray only twice. COMMENTS. The powerfull and complex sweet opening where Spices come first : immortelle and ouzo (greek aperitif) with a touch of curry and cedar notes, might discourage you but please wait...the party just began. Herbals (dried sage), florals (lavender) more spices (vanilla) a little smoke and gourmand notes (burnt caramel and vanilla creme brulee) take over to drive you to a more safe path. The middle notes are more calm and relaxed and have an amazing longevity. As base notes I can detect just lavender and vanilla pod, but in a much more powdery and refined way than the middle ones. It is definitely an ingenious fragrance but its neither for everyone nor for everywhere. It is heavy, deep, black in a sweet way, and if you are not in a mood to dig hard you wont find the treasure.

Cedar cabin, maple syrup (in reality this is immortelle flower), spices, lots of lavender, coffee and vanilla. Dark, mysterious, sensual and spicy, this is my fall and winter holy grail. Longevity is perfect, verging on 24 hours, with sillage that is just right. Never becomes too sweet, too woody or too gourmand. I whole heartily agree that this is pretty much bottled perfection. Quite simply Francis Kurkdjian's finest creation that I have smelled.

For those of you who enjoy Eau Noire, get a bottle of it while you can, as it's now discontinued and becoming harder and harder to find. I actually had to ask my local Dior boutique to order it from another province, as there were no 125 ml bottles left in Quebec.

9.75/10

Edit: I've been wearing this non-stop for a few months now and I have no doubt in my mind that this is the best fragrance I have ever worn. It's a friggin' masterpiece on my skin - perfect in every way. I realize this smells like curry to some people but that's cool - it just means more Eau Noire for me!

10/10

Curry and maple syrup. I have no problem with harshness in fragrances per se, but it doesn't work for me here. The base is less objectionable than the top, but it's not worth the wait.

The top notes of Eau Noire are quite sharp; a nose-pinching bite of herbal lavender that is a nice introduction to this fragrance. Within a few minutes it fades abruptly, leaving a light, powdery immortelle touched with vanilla - if there was a Sables Light, it would smell like this.

All in all it's nice, but unremarkable. Average longevity, but very much a skin scent when the top-notes fade.

If you like this, try Annick Goutal's Sables and Parfum D'Empire's Fougere Bengale.

Oh dear Lord, how exactly is this wearable? Annick Goutal Sables meets Bond No. 9 New Haarlem makes for top notes from H.E.L.L! Very, very loud and after the immortelle settles what remains is pleasant and clearly of high quality but comparatively weak. This is probably a love it or hate it frag, and this reviewer hates it. Only positive aspect of this I see is that it is a very avantgarde frag for a designer scent.

This is totally unwearable!

There’s no bloody way I’m going to smell like a curry-eating lout, who suddenly had the urge to buy an ice-cream and 99p flake for dessert.

Compelling, in its own special way, but utterly gross!

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]