Daim Blond (2004)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Serge Lutens Daim Blond

Notes: Iris Pallida, apricot kernel, cardamom from Ceylon, musk, heliotrope, hawthorn (from luckyscent.com)

Daim Blond is an oriental leather scent--very modern, soft, almost edible and really unlike many leathers which tend to be a dry green-gray chypre type of fragrance. Accompanying the leather accord, DB starts with balanced boozy sweetness from apricot fruit, soft, buttery florals and an almond note. The apricot-leather combination is evocative of other leathery fragrances which use osmanthus flower (Parfums d'Empire Osmanthus Interdite, The Different Company Osmanthus), but the accord in DB is deeper and more mellow while maintaining delicacy and weightlessness. In the mid notes, DB becomes more woody and nutty, with a saltiness that gives an impression of popcorn and salted cashews. As this salty accord develops, it becomes increasingly like the sensual salty skin scent which occurs after fresh sweat dries. The salty, buttery and nutty notes persist into the base, which is composed of sweet musk and Iso E Super. Overall, DB has moderate sillage and longevity, and is somewhat linear in development--as such I suggest sampling for a while before buying, in case DB's linear nature becomes boring. Its softness makes it suitable for men or women. Generally, though, Daim Blond is a very enjoyable fragrance that charms with subtleness and grace.

A joy for the senses. A rhapsody written on one and only theme approached successfully or not by so many composers in the past . However, I believe this version is written by Mozart. The theme is leather. But not any leather. The perfumer tried to define exactly the kind of leather he wanted and I think he succeeds in that. Instead of the usual old leather note, he presents one of a soft, artfully processed and luxurious . The blending is so perfect, it is almost impossible to accurately define the alternation of the notes and while the leather is so obvious from the opening the result is not linear at all. Top notes are ethereal, you instantly believe they will fade out in seconds, but instead they develop into a more powerful and long floral heart. So pleasant, so calm, so easy to combine with every outfit, casual or formal any time of the day. Simply Great!

Leather is one of the hardest-to-nail accords, and even harder to appreciate imo. Preconceived ideas about what each leather types should smell like often interfere with the process of appreciating leather-inspired scents. That's why someone who is visualising a biker's leather jacket and expecting to smell its scent is likely to have a tough time appreciating a scent more reminiscent of other types of leather. Similarly if you sample DAIM BLOND expecting a distinct suede or leather accord, you'd be in for a disappointment. But as I understand it, this was never meant to be a leather scent. It was meant to impart to its wearer a sense of luxury with its velvety smooth yet luxurious take on fine leather, very much along the lines of Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur or Chanel's Cuir de Russie. and if you could somehow appreciate this idea I'm pretty sure Daim Blond would fit you like a pair of the softest suede gloves.

as i'm fairly sensitive to overbearing scents, i'm thrilled this one settles in as nicely as it does. to me it indeed smells like fresh apricot pits in a rich suede coin purse, and with it on, i find myself constantly checking my wrist to see what it's up to. certainly not the most masculine, it does nice things on my skin and have been told as much by a pretty girl or two. which is nice.

For the last couple of years, I found it very difficult to understand Daim Blond. Looking back now, I was probably expecting something typically Luten-esque, while hoping for a leather fragrance that worked exceedingly well with my skin chemistry. Unfortunately, it wasn’t as heavy as many of the previous Serge Lutens creations, and nor was it the leather scent that I was looking for (but since then, I’ve now concluded that prominent leather scents rarely work on my skin). Also, the reviews on various websites didn’t help matters either – they largely confirmed what I, at the time, considered to be a disappointing release.

For quite a while, Daim Blond remained one of the ‘also-rans’ from this house but I, occasionally, found myself compelled to test it from time to time. Indeed the apricot kernel, iris and leather notes were no less inviting but still not quite full bottle-worthy. And then something happened without any warning – its enigma suddenly dissipated and, after a long struggle trying to understanding it, its true nature finally revealed itself to me…

The problem is that Daim Blond is widely misunderstood and, as a result, has received too many lukewarm reviews over the years. Perceiving this creation as a dominant leather scent will only court disappointment. It isn’t really a take on leather but actually a take on suede and this is an important fact that should be acknowledged. In addition, based on the notes, I will go out on a limb here and proclaim that it is not a dominant suede scent either. Although its softness is partly due to the suede note, many tend to overlook the fact that musk is one of its main notes. Based on how it performs out of the bottle, I would say that it is, essentially, a fruity-musk scent with a hint of suede. I believe that if the wearer approaches Daim Blond in this way, they will fully appreciate it for what it is.

I still consider it too soft to wear in public and find its sillage to be too subtle for such occasions (but, then again, I’ve never been terribly enthusiastic about musk scents). However, after further musings, I’ve come to the conclusion that it would be an excellent fragrance to wear either during intimate moments or as a bedtime scent. Many have sung the praises of Musc Ravageur and consider it to be very much appropriate for the aforementioned situations – I consider Daim Blond to be a superior alternative (and with far better longevity). While Musc Ravageur half-convincingly hints at naughty quickies in a nearby cul-de-sac, Daim Blond conjures up vivid images of tender (and yet profound) love-making between freshly laid silk sheets. For me, it’s sexy but in a completely different way. But, then again, this all comes down to personal taste.

So, with this in mind, I urge you to approach Daim Blond once again – both from a completely different perspective and without the prejudice formed by previous reviews.

[Original submission date: 30 July 2008]

Like every other Serge Lutens scent that I've tried on, Daim Blond is rich, luxurious and brilliantly conceived. Unlike some of the others it is also relatively understated and soft-spoken. It’s central feature is a gentle suede and osmanthus accord that suggests both a fine lady’s glove and a bowl of dried apricots. Its structure places Daim Blond beside such fruity leathers as Armani’s Cuir Améthyste and Parfum d’Empire’s Cuir Ottoman, among which it is the smoothest and most delicately balanced. My only real complaint is that, like many others in the Lutens line, it ends off with a drydown sweet enough to be oppressive. A little less syrup and I’d have liked it that much better.