Open Fleurs de Citronnier and crisp neroli with white flowers ride out of the bottle on dry, powdery woods. This brisk and refreshing accord is a pleasant surprise coming from a house known for lush, sweet, heavy orientals. The citrus and woods accord here actually borders on astringent - it's that snappy!
Some of the expected Sheldrake-Lutens sweetness creeps in as the scent develops, and the fleshy, indolic aspect of lemon blossom follows close behind. The two add a layer of warmth and complexity to what might otherwise have been a rather hollow composition. None of the heavier notes are overdone, so the overall effect remains extremely bright and buoyant. The base, built on a light, sweet vanilla and clean, powdery white musk, stays close to the skin once the drydown begins.
If many of the Serge Lutens fragrances are sweet, thick cordials, Fleurs de Citronnier is a champagne cocktail: effervescent, a bit tart, and unlikely to ruin anybody's appetite.
Fleurs de Citronnier welcomes you with a vibrant, straight-in-your-face note of lemon blossoms (fleurs de citronnier). It's very intensive, citric giving you the feeling of real citrus fruits with rinds blended into this Serge Lutens composition. Note that there are officialy no lemon, orange or grapefruit notes listed. While intensive, this phase is also cool and sheer, it's plesant, absolutely inoffensive. Then the lemon blossom opening become less loud when musky tones appear. In this place the fragrance get's more sensual and "sits" comfortably on ones skin. After some time a neroli note get's the serenade, while musk and lemon blosson play some violin in the background. The fragrance here becomes more citric again, but the feeling is different than the one initially given by an orange blossom. Neroli makes it more flowery, but still reserved and elegant. As the jasmine notes appear Fleurs de Citronnier creates an exclusive smelling soapy vibe. It smells very clean, fresh and invigorating. It creates the aroma that imitates the feeling after a shower. At some point Fleurs de Citronnier reminded me a lot about Le Labo Iris 39. Both fragrances share that interesting aroma of fresh laundry hanging on a string in the open air. Petit grain probably creates this fun vibe. The soapy feeling is far different from the one we get from Prada Infusions, d'Iris and d'Homme as Serge Lutens creation doesn't have the powdery vibe created by iris. But different doesn't wean it's worse. It's definitely not worse. In some aspects it's even better. Hours after application Fleurs de Citronnier settles into a gorgeous smelling skin scent. You can detect musky notes and there's still some neroli left, and a warming hint of honey-waxy notes is tingling quietly.
As for the citrusy-floral fragrance (I think citrus-floral is an appropriate category for Fleurs de Citronnier) it has an excellent lasting power. The perfume stayed on my skin for 6 hours - that's the time I could easily smell it, I still can sense it when I put my wrist up to my nose. Sure it could last an extra hour or two, but hey, 6 hours is a great time to enjoy the scent. Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier also has a great, very appropriate sillage that becomes smaller as it evolves on your skin. I didn't have much luck smelling Serge Lutens fragrances until now - Fleurs de Citronnier is a gorgeous scent that really understands the wearers skin. Not only it smells divine, but it does smell like made of top quality ingredients. If you ask me - this fragrance is a great choice if you're looking for joyful summer skinscent. It made my smile all day!
How odd -- I don't find FdC at all feminine. Completely the opposite in fact -- it reminds me of the quintessential 'gentlemens cologne'. Dry as a bone, orange blossom and honeyed vetiver done barbershop style. Not what I was expecting at all. 'After you, old boy'. Love it.
Crispy orange jessamine at first, then a fluffy powdery lemon dry down. Nice if you like blossomy citrus fragrances with out any spice. Definitely not my scene.
The first 30 minutes on my skin are like a strong, fresh, almost bitter citrus cologne, more lemon peel than lemon blossom. l was hoping for the sweet, smooth headiness of the flowers, like Greece in the springtime, but for me it didn't really get there. lt becomes more floral as it dries down, but fades to nothing within 2 hours, & l don't get a sense of the base notes at all. l'm disappointed that this didn't live up to my expectations, & that Lutens' fragrances just don't seem to "live" on my skin as they do on others.