The opening of Chene is remarkable, even memorable in my opinion. It's a surprisingly vibrant, realistic woody accord, the woodiest of them all, with a lot of nuances; fresh, sweet, radiant, balsamic, much spicy and with a nice green-herbal accord which increases the "green-balsamic-aromatic" factor - a "culinary" type of herbal notes as in some other Lutens' scents (here is thyme). The wood accord is different from pretty much any other I've ever smelled so far: it's really, really aromatic and rich, on the cedar-oak side with a hint of warm sweetness provided by sandalwood. Overall it has a peculiar sort of lively and vibrant freshness, like the invigorating smell of a freshly cut trunk of wood. So no smoky, dark, dry or "aged" woods, just real pure wood. A subtle pollen-resinous breeze (almost caramelised, with rooty and sweet nuances of licorice and honey - I guess this is all due to immortelle) completes the "landscape" of coniferous woods. Pretty much it, I think I smell only a couple of other slight notes that enhance different facets of the woody accord – green notes on one side, spices on the other (cardamom, but to me also juniper and a light cloves note). A really simple scent yet complex and cleverly composed, fascinating and powerful, evocative and sharp, incredibly natural yet incredibly "clean" somehow. And totally refined. Perhaps its martial linearity can turn into monotone staticity, but its "basic" and organic coziness is pure class and charme.
It has honestly taken me a long time to fall for Chêne. I usually like wood scents, but Chêne has a weird sweetness and not-so-subtle funk that never really spoke to me until recently. Perhaps I just needed to wear it on a particularly nice day, but now I’m enjoying it.
So what does it smell like? Oak, mostly. There’s a standard oak note in niche perfumes (especially the Duchoufour L’Artisans) that’s almost exaggeratedly dry and very dusty – this isn’t that. Instead, it’s more like moist tree bark. There are undertones of maple syrup, moss, and fresh earth, with a fairly strong leathery sweaty note in there as well. There’s a hard-to-place red sweetness (maybe berries or cedar) that hints at red wine, though Chêne smells to me more like a grove of trees than a winery.
This boozy woody fragrance is one you have to try. Reminds me a lot of Gucci Pour Homme I. Wood and tree sap mixed with a cognac drink is what I get from this. Sounds strange, but that's what I get.8.5/10
"analogy" is like when you're just getting on a new car and smelled the leather holstery blended with the fine oak panel board and oak steering wheel with cup of whiskey held in an oak cup board and this oak appropriated is the finest set up in this new high class luxurious car...wow beautiful...
21st June, 2014 (last edited: 24th June, 2014)
Chêne is dry, woody, mossy, and just a bit astringent: a real walk in the forest. No extra syrup either, just the natural sweetness of cured oak logs, plus lots of herbs and lots of booze. The oak note in Chêne is beyond real, its hallucinogenic. Repeated wear leaves me feeling that Chêne is the appalling Miel de Bois done right. Which is to say, without the overwhelming dried urine note that rendered that otherwise interesting fragrance unwearable.
Long-lasting, with moderate sillage and a beautiful mossy/woody/tonka bean drydown. It smells "serious," but it makes me happy.