The opening so often described as "gasoline" or "rubber" seems to me a strong dose of eucalyptus, wintergreen, camphor, or menthol. It's cool, sharp, and bracing, like a good slap in the face with a frosty mitten. Pairing these sinus-clearing top notes with the voluptuous sweetness of tuberose is a stroke of genius - perhaps even the cleverest thing Sheldrake has done.
On its own or in combination with other white flowers, tuberose can be positively oppressive. Cut it with clear camphor, and it's outright refreshing. Unisex, too, as far as I'm concerned. Tubéreuse Criminelle wears closer to the skin than some other tuberose scents, with moderate sillage and projection. It lasts a solid six hours on my skin, with a creamy vanillic drydown. The persistent cool menthol notes make this the first tuberose scent I turn to in hot weather.
Tubéreuse Criminelle is not the same kind of room-filling diva as Fracas, nor does it share the soft, unearthly luminosity of Carnal Flower. It is very much its own animal. It's surely not for everyone, and it probably takes some nerve to wear, but if you can get into its peculiar groove the rewards are rich.
Pharmaceutical floral for alpha males!
Tuberose - lots of those
The opening is a bit sharp, nigh tyre-rubbery with orange blossom, but soon the almighty, dark and foggy tuberose takes over, only a little bit brightened up by glimpses of a nice hyacinth shining through. Clove and nutmeg give it death and spice, and styrax and a dark musk a certain smokiness. Great silage and projection, with a criminally good longevity of over eight hours. One of Mr Sheldrake's most convincing offences.
A blast of contradiction to my nose and my thoughts
Well when I first came to Tuberose Criminelle I was just shocked by the contrasts of its opening, the camphor and nutmeg and someking of "frosted" orange blossom is just superb and this disorienting and a-la-coturier touch basically is a carrier to the super comfortable heart of tubereuse and jasmine which is what I would call cute and nice and cocooning. What I love the most about Tubereuse criminelle is that you really can't relate this to all those others tubereuse out there, especially to Fracas, this is a totally different take that manage to almost risks to betray its name because it makes you forget for a while about the tubereuse and the fragrance, and just takes you deep into the concept behind it. This is like a Zaha Adid architecture, is not about the building, is about the concept. Great intellectual effort Serge and Sheldrake.
Pros: Great "cultural" effort behind this project, a super modern take on tubereuse even after almost 15 years from its launch
Cons: Somehow even if it's a pretty noticeable fragrance,Low longevity: it lasts from three to four hours which is not what you expect from your tuberose
I love the opening blast of wintergreen which then settles into a fab tuberose. I'm not a fan of rose perfumes and although knowing tuberose was different, had avoided it up till now! I'm in love! Interesting so is my 5 year old daughter who declares it's her favourite!
Good perfume - and good staying power
Ten minutes of powerful orange blossom plus mentholic nutmeg, followed by soft tuberose plus a bit of jasmine and even less hyacinth, with the orange blossom still persisting. Given all of the reading that I did about this perfume before sampling it, I am surprised that I do not have more to say about it, but I really do not have more to say about it. It is a GOOD perfume, not special, not magical, not profound...just good. It certainly does not intrigue me like Carnal Flower or even Fracas does.
30th December, 2012 (last edited: 12th January, 2013)