This little creation opens with a most lovely wintergreen atop the white floral bouquet. Alas, my favorite part of TC recedes to the backstage within ten minutes in order to clear the stage for the obvious starlet. While not being particularly fond of tuberose itself I will readily admit that this is a well-made fragrance which exemplifies the facets of the natural plant; it's just a little bit like showing your favorite band's B-sides to someone who has only ever heard their radio singles.
After trying just about every tuberose perfume out there searching for the one that most represents what the living flower smells like in the evening as the fragrance intensifies and this one truly does. I read over and over all the comments about the camphor and gasoline or wintergreen opening but I do not fully agree with the harsh criticism. I will say that for the first 10-15 minutes there are some intense opening notes that are intense but I love how they create a huge sensation and then as it dries down the tuberose emerges and soon you have a tuberose that is a warm, creamy, heavy tuberose that is very true to the living flower. Yes, there is a camphor-wintergreen salicylate note, but this is an important significant part of the scent profile of natural tuberose and is one of the things that makes it so distinctly different from the fragrance of gardenia, jasmine, and all the other heady white flowers. This perfume lasts a nice long time and the sillage is just right. Like all Serge Lutens perfumes it is a perfect fragrance for both women and men as it is simply a soliflore and not a sickly sweet white floral nightmare. Together with S.L. Fleurs de Cironnier, much of my summer fragrance needs are covered.
TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE is a boldly creative triumph of ingenuity that could only come from SERGE LUTENS.it is the scent of a modern woman who apprecites the elegance of style of the past,for a modern heiress who knows how to play with her sensual aroma.an masterpiece that combines strenght and character. Sophisticated,Voluptuous,Spicy,Floral,Powerful, Confident,Gorgeous,Glamorous,Contagious and Unique.
A strong and luxurious bouquet of jasmine,tuberose and orange blossom is warmed with nutmeg and clove, held captivate in a deep and sophisticated blend of vanilla and musk,that makes a fragrance of seduction and evokes rigour and passion.the scent unveils a new facet of tuberose erotic decadence.anyway if you are looking for something different,this perfume don't disappoint you.
Longevity?Acceptable on my skin.
The opening so often described as "gasoline" or "rubber" seems to me a strong dose of eucalyptus, wintergreen, camphor, or menthol. It's cool, sharp, and bracing, like a good slap in the face with a frosty mitten. Pairing these sinus-clearing top notes with the voluptuous sweetness of tuberose is a stroke of genius - perhaps even the cleverest thing Sheldrake has done.
On its own or in combination with other white flowers, tuberose can be positively oppressive. Cut it with clear camphor, and it's outright refreshing. Unisex, too, as far as I'm concerned. Tubéreuse Criminelle wears closer to the skin than some other tuberose scents, with moderate sillage and projection. It lasts a solid six hours on my skin, with a creamy vanillic drydown. The persistent cool menthol notes make this the first tuberose scent I turn to in hot weather.
Tubéreuse Criminelle is not the same kind of room-filling diva as Fracas, nor does it share the soft, unearthly luminosity of Carnal Flower. It is very much its own animal. It's surely not for everyone, and it probably takes some nerve to wear, but if you can get into its peculiar groove the rewards are rich.
Pharmaceutical floral for alpha males!