Tubéreuse Criminelle (1998)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

After waiting two weeks for a partial bell jar from TPC, I just got it today. I had a set of the wax testers from SL and was quite surprised at the difference. At the first blast of wintergreen, I thought there must be some mistake. I'd heard about the rubber tire, but this was a poke in the nose. Ten minutes later and I am in love. It is ethereal. This is much nicer than Carnal Flower. I just ordered Cuir Mauresque (not from TPC- I'm too old to wait that long again) based on the wax samples and I hope that there isn't a similar shock at opening. I think the wax samples lose the lighter, more volatile aspects of a perfume but are true for the dry down.

9th January, 2012.

The archteype Lutens, imo.
Sweet and sliceable thick, more rose than you can get by other means.
a refined and precise extraction of roses, but a bit too present and monotonous from my angle.
Maybe one of the friendliest fragrances out there.
But don't play hide and seek wearing this scent, they'll hunt you down in a second.

25th December, 2011.

Danced around this for a long time before buying as I was drawn into the allure by such juxtaposed comments on it. Seems to be amongst the most revered and most hated in the comments made in Reviews. Having previously purchased Un Cedre I surmised I'd like it because I liked Lutens tubereuse tack on that.
TC is however a very different beast. Where I had to sell-on Un Cedre due to it being a bit too feminine for a guy, IMO this is to me immensely more suitable for a man to wear. The opening medicinal note that so many seem to hate is the element that lends it's masculinity. I'm no wallflower and could care less about what others thoughts on my fragrance are, but I'd be fibbing if I said I didn't think some fragrances are just a bit too feminine for a guy. (JilSander No 4 and Une Rose are personal favourites in this vein).
For all you guys out there Tubereuse Criminelle is a real winner. NEVER had as many good comments about any of the myriad things I've previously flaunted.
Odd, initially heavy, alluring, very classy (in the A di P Colonia and Fleur de TRB vein) but soft, understated and subtle when it settles. Buy it now. If you ever get to Heaven this is what they'll be wearing.
Unfortunately.......Serge is not paying me to say this. Honest. lol

8th August, 2011.

Well, I'm not gonna rehash the notes in Tubereuse Criminelle as everyone is well aware of them by now. I'm just here to give this one two thumbs up. I personally LOVE the wicked camphor/wintergreen blast, so refreshing and different from any other treatment of tuberose that I've ever smelled. Good longevity and reasonable sillage, you won't suffocate your co-workers with this one. Truly a masterpiece in its own right.

29th April, 2010.

The opening so often described as "gasoline" or "rubber" seems to me a strong dose of eucalyptus, wintergreen, camphor, or menthol. It's cool, sharp, and bracing, like a good slap in the face with a frosty mitten. Pairing these sinus-clearing top notes with the voluptuous sweetness of tuberose is a stroke of genius - perhaps even the cleverest thing Sheldrake has done.

On its own or in combination with other white flowers, tuberose can be positively oppressive. Cut it with clear camphor, and it's outright refreshing. Unisex, too, as far as I'm concerned. Tubéreuse Criminelle wears closer to the skin than some other tuberose scents, with moderate sillage and projection. It lasts a solid six hours on my skin, with a creamy vanillic drydown. The persistent cool menthol notes make this the first tuberose scent I turn to in hot weather.

Tubéreuse Criminelle is not the same kind of room-filling diva as Fracas, nor does it share the soft, unearthly luminosity of Carnal Flower. It is very much its own animal. It's surely not for everyone, and it probably takes some nerve to wear, but if you can get into its peculiar groove the rewards are rich.

17th December, 2009.

This is the first "tuberose" fragrance I've tried. I was warned about the top notes, and yes, they do smell like wintergreen with a whiff of diesel fuel. The smell close to my wrist remained like this for quite a while, but the silage that drifted up to me -- and it was quite strong, despite having applied only a dab or two -- was a white floral. But what a white floral! Heavily indolic, it smelled familiar, and not in a pleasant way. Hopelessly old-fashioned and heavy. A fur coat in mothballs, wrapped in plastic. Shag carpet recently steamed with an industrial strength cleaner and still wet. The open-casket funeral of a wealthy great-aunt. Wow.

I wonder if I will ever dare try another tuberose. I'm sure I'll test this again someday when my nose is more educated, though probably on fabric. I can't imagine ever putting this on my skin again. I'll edit my review if anything changes. For now, thumbs down.

8th October, 2009.