Hermèssence Poivre Samarcande (2004)
by Hermès

I completely agree with those who have accused this scent of being pretentious. This ‘minimalistic’ peppery scent really isn’t worth the retail price.

For a cheaper alternative, which is just as good (and with better sillage and longevity), try Gigli Man by Romeo Gigli – a 100ml bottle can be had for about £25 on ebay.

[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

Perhaps the gentlest Hermessence in the line up, one could easily dismiss this as JC Ellena minimalist-by-the-numbers, meets Iso-E Super. What a pity that would be.

After wearing this a handful of times, something 'clicked' and I finally understood what this fragrance was saying to me. The pepper notes, a cross between a freshly ground white peppercorns and dried twigs, is one of the smoothest I've ever worn and seperates itself from the culinary and sneeze inducing aspects of certain pepper scents (Rose Poivree, Piper Nigrum) while also incorporating a fascinating and delightful whiff of handbag leather. The longevity is very good - I smell it across an entire day if I over apply it (more than 6-7 sprays).

Don't expect to get compliments from across the room wearing this. It's for ones personal enjoyment and yet I must admit smells very sexy, up close on skin.

I've literally had this for months - received as part of the Hermessence travel set - and I literally just 'got it'. This is my fault - until today I've never done anything but spray on my wrist, and although I appreciated the incredibly realistic black pepper note, I couldn't figure out how such a minimalist fragrance could command such exclusivity and cost. The accord is simple - black pepper with a touch of woods. There's little development and no base to speak of.

So this evening I actually gave myself a few sprays on the neck/shoulders and it all made sense. When worn, PS creates an aura of warm spice around the person wearing it. I heard someone once write that they found PS invigorating, and I see what they mean... on me it has an almost aromatherapy type effect, the pepper being stimulating but never overbearing. I find myself looking forward to the next breath as I breathe it in. The length is average, about 5 hours. At first there was some sillage, but after about 30 minutes it is enjoyed only by the wearer (spraying on clothes lasts longer), but the 'aura' I describes lasts quite a while. This would work perfectly for an office or other situation sillage may be inappropriate.

I'm not sure I would spend the $210 necessary to buy a full bottle, but I will be using my travel size bottle and would consider replacing it. I definitely recommend trying PS, especially to those who either like pepper accords or who appreciate Ellena's minimalist composition style. This is one the the school's best examples.

This is a very, very nice woods and pepper. Sadly only lasted 4 hours on me. Right near the end was the most beautiful, dark cedarwoods since Declaration I've smelled. Then it goes away.

Wonderful, peppery scent. Just wonderful.
A definite thumbs up.

Pepper!
And if you like pepper, no doubt you will a conspicuous, but not overpowering, peppery goodness. Give it a few minutes, and the complexity comes out; the most in the Hermessence line. It lasts, that is, if you can detect those last accords, like the last few dying embers in a bonfire that no longer give sufficient light or heat. I heavily question the value here.