Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka (2004)
by Hermès

I approached this with mixed feelings. I like vetiver very much. But the dried fruits suggested the potential for a Serge Luten opulence, and the grilled hazelnuts suggested a foody sort of scent -- neither scenario immediately attracts me.
My fears were groundless. This is a suave, restrained unisex scent.
It has slight toasty-nutty aspects. Although it starts a bit sweet it is not heavy, and the sweetness recedes very quickly. It has a dry, rootsy-earthy aspect -- not gourmand at all in my opinion. The dried fruit is so subtle that I don't really notice it. I'd say that the vetiver - toasted nut - tonka (hay) melange is held in perfect balance. This sits close to the skin. In the final dry-down, a satisfying light vetiver remains.
Now, this is not a jaw-dropping vetiver. If you are well stocked in that style, you may not need to seek it out. But it will appeal to many, I'm sure.

20th January, 2012.

I get a brief blast of vetiver, followed by tonka. For a while, I think the vetiver is all gone, but to my surprise it returns, albeit in subtler form, mingled with the tonka. Perhaps a touch of nuttiness and grain. I certainly don’t find it offensive, but not especially interesting either. And a bit pricey too.

16th January, 2012.

Vetiver Tonka is an amazing fragrance, that I can say for sure!

It opens up with a sensational vetiver note. Pure, earthy and resembling Encre Noire from Lalique (in a matter of fact this entirely fragrance seems to be a corpulent version of this designer fragrance).

After a couple of minutes, the tobacco note kicks in together with vetiver giving to this particular fragrance a slight smoky aspect.

Unfortunately the chocolate aspect of it it's not so evident on my skin, but this doesn't take away points from this wonderful fragrance.

3rd December, 2011.

Bitter and dry and sweet and nutty. How can it be so set with opposites ? It's fascinating. An image immediately springs to mind- chewing on an old tweed suit. The dryness, maleness and smoky-sweetness I guess.
I see the majority of reviewers are male, and this does seem to slide towards the male camp ( if we do differentiate between male and female fragrances). I'm wearing it, but feeling a little uncomfortable ... like I'm wearing my BF's underpants and hope no one notices! But for women looking to widen their scope towards male-ish scent, this is may be a one to try- probably because it has M.Ellena's airy spaciousness to lighten the experience and therefore soften it.
I like this - I prefer it on my BF - but yes, I like it.

20th November, 2011.

I bought a vial, foolishly thinking it would smell like vetiver plus something close to vanilla. It opens much sweeter, more nutty and caramel candy-like than I expected, but right away I can tell that the show's already over for me. It has that rotting fetid ashtray component that overruns Floris Elite...not quite as much as FE but still it's at center stage. From what I can tell, some intrepid florals are struggling to break free of the horrific oppression of the ashtray, but aren't quite able to make it out. There is in fact some vetiver in here, manifesting itself as the greener portion of the mostly light brown sharp sourness. Then, oddly enough, the sour ashiness is almost gone in a very quick transition, leaving a weak, nutty vetiver. This phase in and of itself is OK, reminding me a lot of Black Vetyver Cafe with only a little sourness, but I've already been punished enough by the top and mid notes; I've seriously come across bums that smelled just like that. I can't believe what a racket Hermes has going with this line, though I still like most of their other offerings.

11th September, 2011.

Jean-Claude Elléna tips the scales in favour of the tonka rather than the vetiver here, emphasising caramel, hazelnuts, coffee, and praline. The delicious highlight of these efforts – what Hermès refers to as ‘cereal notes’ – smells like roasted brown rice and imparts a reassuringly wholesome, toasty aura to the fragrance.

Vétiver Tonka lacks liquorice and lavender, just as it is devoid of florals, so comparisons with either Yohji Homme or Sycomore, respectively, are a little shaky; but the composition is located somewhere in this region of perfume space.

Vétiver Tonka is sheer, fresh, tantalising, but a little too hushed for me.

24th August, 2011.