Timbuktu (2004)
by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Timbuktu is a disorganized fragrance.

By that, I mean that I have no idea what kind of fragrance this is trying to be. The initial smell is a very bright, citrusy mango/berry combo, and a fairly prominent frankincense and myrrh. Those notes clash pretty jarringly, and I think that the removal or at least toning down of the incense would improve this a lot. Fortunately, the incense notes fade relatively quickly, and what's left is a papyrus/vetiver fragrance that I would best describe as "meh." The vetiver in this is a clean one and when coupled with the leftover mango/berry notes, it gives a bit of brightness to the papyrus/wood notes, but the real issue is with that papyrus note. It smells more like treated paper rather than papyrus. The kind of paper that you load into a printer or copier. It starts off smelling niche, and by the time this dries down, it resembles inexpensive designer fare, something along the lines of Encre Noir Sport (2013).

I'll give Duchaufour credit where it's due in the sense that he certainly wasn't following a paint-by-numbers formula, but ultimately the end result is a confusing jumble that ends up being a paper tiger. It's not bad enough to give this a thumbs down, but it certainly teeters close to that edge. Though I'll give this a neutral, I would pass on this one.

I've heard a lot of things about Timbuktu but I've never really tried anything like it, so I wasn't sure what I was in for. I can see the merit, and I'm sure a lot of people will enjoy it, but I don't know if this one is for me. The incense gives it a dry smokey quality. I particularly enjoyed that same quality in Margiela's By the Fireplace. However in that scent the smoke was balanced with smooth marshmallow sweetness. Here the smoke is mostly the standout, and the other notes give additional herbal, sour, or earthy vibes, none of which are particularly pleasant to my nose. I was hoping the mango might come in a bit stronger to soften things, but no such luck. Not bad, just not for me.

A super clean vetiver crisp fresh incense. Light and bright. A little bit woody. A little bit sour. Very unique / unusual but definitely pleasant. Difficult to imagine the right situation for it - for me, it's too fresh and not rich enough for evenings out, but it's a bit too exotic for the office - it mellows though, so I might try it a few times to see how much of a distraction it is!

Update: this stuff has really grown on me - I wear it to the office a lot. Definitely in my top 3 Vetivers along side TdHP and Vetiver Fatale (the latter is very clean and fresh and almost too metallic in colder weather which is where Timbuktu really comes into its own - clean and fresh but also with a slight spiciness and warmth). Uprating from 4 to 5.

There's something grey in this Vetiver, along with fruit acidity and spiciness, which I associate directly with mango. I don't get a lot of sweetness. Is it the incense? The benzoin is also very noticeable to my nose, as is the pink pepper. Gorgeous, complicated (in the right sense) fragrance, that might project as masculine to people. I don't care.

A delightful woody-spicy EdT from L'Artisan Parfumeur.

Immediately from application and forward, there is a classic men's cologne vibe courtesy of the combo of vetiver, patchouli, cardamom, and papyrus wood, above all. The baies rose note is subtle, with an ever-so-slight fruity touch that's barely discernible esp. if you "look" to find them (i.e., mango and berries). There's a medium strength presence of resinous notes a la myrrh and frankincense, adding a slight smokiness in the heart that slowly unfolds over time.

This is liquefied incense stick! I feel a sense of calm and reflectiveness every time I whiff Tibuktu. It's not a loud scent, more so a slightly higher than skinscent formulation creating an air of tranquil feelings to wearer and smellers alike.