Iris Nobile (2004)
by Acqua di Parma

I just received the two 1.5 ml samples i ordered of this and I have to say that I agree with MonkeyManMatt and Carl999 on Iris Nobile. The way it was constructed leaves it projecting in a way that's too linear for me. All I get is a star anise note that verges on cloying and too sweet for my taste after a while. While its not bad, IMO it does need a little something else to round it out. Right now it's the middle of a cold winter, so I'll try it again in the summer to see if the heat will bring out any of the notes that others have mentioned that seem to remain hidden on me. I'm not getting the woods or spices. If you don't like your scents on the sweet side, you may not like Iris Nobile, especially in the beginning, but like ubuandibeme said, if you like star anise you could really like this. the sillage is good.

Iris? Not so much. Noble? Absolutely.

Sure, there’s some iris in here, but this is more of a sweet, spicy rose and fruit composition, and anyone expecting something like Hiris, Iris Silver Mist, or Iris Bleu Gris is going to be disappointed. On the other hand, if you disregard the label you’ll discover a beautiful, rich, indolic floral over a dense chypre foundation. I find it very hard to resist. Granted, part of my delight in this scent may lie in the utter surprise of its content, but I believe myself enough of a cynic that this couldn’t be entirely the case.

Iris does become more prominent as Iris Nobile develops, but never takes center stage. Instead it provides a smooth, plush undercarriage for the spice, fruit, and floral notes. When these subside, they expose a powdery chypre accord that smells like an extension of the skin itself. Iris Nobile is a tenacious scent that lasts for several hours, and it offers plenty of sillage and projection, so it will not go unnoticed. All in all, an unexpected pleasure.

I've been obsessing over Iris Nobile since I first tried it when it was first released, and my need to own it was sealed with the release of the EdP version. (this review is of the EdP version, which is very similar to the EdT but richer, more lactonic, and with a few added floral notes). I'm celebrating my acquisition of an EdP bottle with this brief review. (The SAs at Nordstroms will be happy that I will no longer be pilfering their tester.)

Despite its name, iris is a supporting/structural type note and I do not experience any distinct iris aroma (though it most certainly present, particularly in the heart/base). The initial blast of Iris Nobile is what sells me on the scent. The combination of citrus, anise and vanilla is simultaneously sweet and yet sharp. For many, many samplings I could have sworn there was some violet in there, but I've never seen it on any note list. The anise and vanilla never fully recede, but are eventually joined by ylang-ylang and iris. Eventually the vanillic base takes over, along with mild woody notes and hints of sweet patchouli. Especially in EdP form the longevity is very good - easily 8+ hours with very respectable sillage.

Personally I prefer the EdP and I've held out buying Iris Nobile until I could get the EdP, but the EdT is certainly very enjoyable and probably a better choice on hotter days (or if you don't like creamy scents).

I could easily call it «Fiori Nobili”. On one hand, it is so disappointing to expect an Iris based scent, (especially when you have in mind scents like Iris Silver Mist and Dior Homme) and get a sweet, flower oriented instead. On the other hand, when these florals have quality and are beautifully blended with a minimum of spice and vanilla you get a nice fresh daywear feminine scent. Anise and white flower notes are easily detected at the top and the heart with the latter being more underlined. Subtle wood notes are added to compose a soft but not powdery base. No Iris in there but still nice.

Iris Nobile is, as MonkeyManMatt has stated, more about star anise ~ in the opening. With anise being such a love it or hate it type note, your appreciation for this frag will certainly depend upon how you take to star anise! I personally enjoy it, so you can guess I really like Iris Nobile! After the initial blast of anise, the rest of this scent is truly a partnership of orange blossom and iris. The notes waft back and forth from creamy to powdery, and the overall impression is totally feminine. Lightly fresh and slightly sweet, I can't imagine anyone finding IN offensive. Along with Prada's new Infusion d'Iris, Acqua di Parma has produced another winning iris perfume for us to enjoy! * 8/2009 as an update to this commentary I'd add that Iris Nobile is more about the orange blossom than iris...I'd liken it to Giorgio (of Beverly Hills) - you know, the one with the gold & white striped box. It is on the sweeter side of florals, and perfectly powdery too!

I think this smells very girlish but also finished and powerful -- like a young Queen Victoria might wear (I think this scent begs for a royal 'we'). Have smelled this on three or four people, and it's always lovely... though, like so many florals, the stuff gives me an almighty headache and I would never wear it (hence no thumbs-up).